rebuilding 351w
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
That term really doesn't say much about the cam so more info is needed on the cam(grind number), the motor, and what year vehicle it's going into. FWIW a stock motor end can handle a pretty big cam as long as valve lift is 1/2" or under, but duration also plays a role in P-V clearance too so all the cam specs are needed.
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Elder User
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From: naples, fl
i was thinking this one....just cause i cant find the site i was on before...
COMP Cams - Cam Details
COMP Cams - Cam Details
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
That cam isn't particularly well suited to a motor with stock heads and especially not in a truck, low rpm power will be soft which is the reason the cam notes recommend gears and a stall converter. It will also be borderline on P-V clearance.. may touch may not.
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From: naples, fl
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yeah that's more like it, though you will also need a complete roller lifter assembly to use that cam of course.. which includes lifters, pushrods, the spider, and dogbones from a '94+ 5.8 motor.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
That second cam you listed is a retrofit roller cam, it is a small base circle cam that allows the use of the factory Ford roller cam assembly in an older non-roller block. That roller cam assembly includes a spider and dogbones set that is bolted into the lifter valley, it's purpose is to prevent the roller lifters from rotating in the bore and destroying the motor. See the pic.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/motorst...7606256666474/
Another way around this problem is to use link-bar roller lifters and a regular roller cam, then the spider assembly isn't needed. Both these options are going to cost 3x what a flat tappet cam and lifter set will cost however, there is no way around it roller cams are expensive.
Another way around this problem is to use link-bar roller lifters and a regular roller cam, then the spider assembly isn't needed. Both these options are going to cost 3x what a flat tappet cam and lifter set will cost however, there is no way around it roller cams are expensive.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 622
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From: Missouri - Lake of the Oz
Toward better breathing...
That second cam you listed is a retrofit roller cam, it is a small base circle cam that allows the use of the factory Ford roller cam assembly in an older non-roller block. That roller cam assembly includes a spider and dogbones set that is bolted into the lifter valley, it's purpose is to prevent the roller lifters from rotating in the bore and destroying the motor. See the pic.. Roller Block on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Another way around this problem is to use link-bar roller lifters and a regular roller cam, then the spider assembly isn't needed. Both these options are going to cost 3x what a flat tappet cam and lifter set will cost however, there is no way around it roller cams are expensive.
Another way around this problem is to use link-bar roller lifters and a regular roller cam, then the spider assembly isn't needed. Both these options are going to cost 3x what a flat tappet cam and lifter set will cost however, there is no way around it roller cams are expensive.
In reviewing the 22 pics to which you linked, I noticed the air intake tubes appear to have been fashioned for the job - not the factory 94-96 mass air unit. Your assembly has longer tubes downstream of the Y and a much shorter tube between the meter/sensor housing and the Y. Is this by design to create higher velocity [more low-end torque] or just use of available parts?
I am considering stroking a 351 for my 95 F350 and converting to mass air if I can locate a complete donor 96 351 for all the wiring & plumbing; realizing that I will have to have a computer programmed for the larger displacement.
At 421,000 miles and counting I realize this date is coming but am reluctant to just tear down an engine that still runs very well, has good power, and burns virtually no oil.
Thanx,
dn.
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Conanski:
In reviewing the 22 pics to which you linked, I noticed the air intake tubes appear to have been fashioned for the job - not the factory 94-96 mass air unit. Your assembly has longer tubes downstream of the Y and a much shorter tube between the meter/sensor housing and the Y.
In reviewing the 22 pics to which you linked, I noticed the air intake tubes appear to have been fashioned for the job - not the factory 94-96 mass air unit. Your assembly has longer tubes downstream of the Y and a much shorter tube between the meter/sensor housing and the Y.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 622
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From: Missouri - Lake of the Oz
To air is human...
Thank you for the response, Conanski. I have a mass air intake setup on mine already so anytime I find the remainder of the components... The pics also show your change of the intake snorkel from the factory 302/351 over-the-radiator style to the 300/460 side style. Have you found this to be any performance enhancement or merely a better access to underhood components?
dn.
dn.