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Hi,I have a full size 1990 and the body is in reallly good condition with minor rust only on the bottom of it.Here's the problem:I have the rear tire mount that swings out to allow the tailgate to drop.When the tailgate is closed and the carrier is latched,the back and forth movement of the carrier is causing the tailgate to become almost impossible to open.With the rear window down I pull back the handle and attempt to drop the tailgate and the right latch is still hung up on the striker.It seems that the back and forth movement of the wieght that the factory spare has is causeing wear to either the striker or the two latches that affix around striker.Is there any way to adjust the amount of play in the two latches?I took off the inner tailgate panel and inspected the assembly and sprayed WD 40 on all moveing parts.All the components of the handle and linkage are intact.This will occur in all temperatures.Sorry so long,I just want to be thorough and accurate so anyone willing to give me advise or share thier experience can relate.Thanks much!!!!!!!
The tailgate on my '78 is just the same; the handle does not release the latch on either side. Coincidentally, my rear window shattered last month, forcing me to remove the interior tailgate panel. Found out the latch cables were both seized in their sheaths. Only by reaching into the tailgate and yanking on the sheaths can I release the latches. Give it a shot, and if it's really bad you could always replace the cables or remove and attempt to free them up.
I unscrewed the 10 screws that hold the inside panel to the tailgate so you can acess the motor for the window.I reached inside and checked on the play of each pushrod and they all move about freely.So there isn't a problem with the catch levers that attach to the handle.
There shouldn't be any "cables" inside a fullsize Bronco t/g - it's all done by operating rods. But there is a common problem with the center mechanism (that divides the action of the single handle to both latches) being permanently bent if it's ever pulled with the glass NOT all the way down. You can see what it looks like here. You should be able to find exploded diagrams here. Adjust the 2 long operating rods by bending them to take up any slack; adjust the strikes so they hold the t/g's glass slot in perfect alignment with the camper shell glass run; adjust the center mechanism so the handle lies flat & the latches release at the same time; make sure the lock rod bellcrank of the center mechanism moves freely.
There is the possible, however unlikely, situation that you are dealing with a shifted striker post in the jamb or even worn or misaligned hinges on the gate. I would suspect lower tailgate rust to have an adverse effect on the hinges over time. But unless you have sustained physical tailgate damage, I would be very surprised if the striker posts had moved. In my expereince just getting them loose to adjust after replacing the tailgate on mine took at least a dozen expletives and a small act of Congress to convince them to move. The weight of the spare is more on the carrier and its rear-quarter panel mounts than the tailgate. The latch really just keeps the carrier from flopping in the breeze. Now, if when you release the carrier you get a significant drop once the carrier clears the latch, then you may have weight distribution issues due to worn hinges on the carrier itself.
I read everything that has been posted and took the time to respond to everyone individually but this page was experiencing some problems and I couldn't post replies.Steve 83 was right on about bending the pushrod that runs to the right side.I just took a pair of vice grips and tweaked the pushrod and now it works like brand new.Just have to pull the handle with a little force.Thanks muchto all who responded to my question,Ron
brother bronco owner i don't have any advice on your tail gate problem but i do have a question for you i have an 89 bronco with a tail gate problem also i.e. the window won't go up or down have you found any place that you can buy the electric motor for these?? let me know
trollman
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For the rear window motor I went to Napa auto store.I can't remember what I paid for it as it was installed by a friend of mine who has an auto repair business.The biggest problem with the rer window design is that it allows water to drop down onto motor.Be sure your outer window jam is in good shape and running a little silicone sealant over it with some on your finger to get in the gaps that may exist.
The outer weatherbelt is easy to change and only about $35 from Ford. The photo album I linked shows how to pull it. Click the little pics to read the captions.