I have it unplugged, but the batteries are still charging. I ran it down pretty good with all of the cranking this morning. I'll try it in a little bit and let ya know.

 

Maybe my ICP pics will help:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - bismic's Album: IPR and ICP

Also, I would load test the batteries after charging them - just because .....

 

Thanks Mark, I don't own a load tester, but they are both less than 2 months old. This is the second time charging them since the truck died, but I don't let them drain down to the point they can't turn the engine over and I only charge them at 2 amps. It takes a while, but it's easier on the batteries. Any idea if the EP (EBP) sensor on an '03 is rendered useless by the recent flashes? Seems that I read this somewhere. Also, is the a "sync" test available with the AE scan tool? I found the FICMsync test and also a CKP and CMP sync, is this the same as the "sync" test mentioned by cheezit?

 

the ebp is now an infered reading but it doesnt mean it cant casue an issue.

 

I didn't receive any codes on it, but should I check it anyway? Next comes the "dumb" question... where is it?

 

look at the left exhaust manifold there is a 1/4" or so metal tube that comes off it follow the tube up thats the sensor on top. to see if its causing vref issues just unplug it. try to start truck.

 

Okay... here are some new results from the autoenginuity. All systems put back together. Truck still won't start with or without the ICP plugged in.
1) ICP desired pressure - 2098
2) ICP actual pressure during cranking - 393/576
3) ICP volts during cranking - .5/.87
4) IPR % - 84.7

I cleared all existing codes noted earlier in this post and today after plugging in the ICP and EGR, I got no codes while cranking, also no start although it did try, engine was trying to spin faster than the starter but no go. Where to go from here? If there was low fuel pressure would it not set an injector code? AGAIN... I am stumped. I did find some wire chaffing at the FICM injector harness, but it hadn't rubbed the wires through yet, I repaired this. Any ideas are MORE than welcomed at this point.

 

If you have wireless internet access while having the truck hooked up to your laptop, Cheezit could gain control of your laptop using LogMeIn software. Then he could take a look at the AE software.

I use this software all the time. Its free from the logmein website.

 

Cheezit remotely logging in and gaining control of your truck....

Wow.. and turn it into a Toyota?

 

0.8 volts is the minimum required ICP (equals 500 psig). Your readings seem low even though the high reading was 0.87 which should have been enough.

 

W_huisman, thanks, but no wireless. Mark, given the readings where would you check next? I have bought a fuel pressure guage but for the life of me cannot locate an adapter in this small town... no one has metric brass here. I might try going into Tulsa this week if need be. Some kid was telling me that his truck wouldn't start when the fan went out????? Doesn't make sense to me, but what do I know...

 

Seems that I have been told also that if the wires to the fan are cut, it will not start. I think I saved that somewhere, I will look.

The fuel pressure is important, but if you are filling the upper fuel filter bowl quickly you probably should have enough supply pressure to start (and you can even wrap towels around the secondary fuel filter lid and slowly crack it open it to see what pressure is there - careful though it is messy and I would really recommend you wait for a pressure gauge).

Since you are marginal on the HPO system pressure for starting, maybe cheezit can comment on whether or not that is the likely place to suspect (HPOP or HPO leaks).

 

Thanks Mark. Just opened the secondary fuel filter and found it was down about an inch. Cycled the ignition to fill it and it does fill rapidly, but with millions of very small air bubbles. I didn't see those the other day, but it was very overcast and quite likely that I just didn't pay a close attention to it. I ran this test "

This is caused by a failed injector. Scuffed injector pintles sometimes seize or stick open allowing compression and combustion gasses to leak into the injector and back up into the fuel rail and eventually displace fuel in the secondary housing. Usually, cycling the ignition several times to recharge the fuel system will allow the engine to run and idle long enough to identify the cylinder bank where the injector is located. Many times I can even identify the cylinder number ...

Remove the secondary fuel filter cap, remove the element and fill the housing with fuel to just above the top of the standpipe (green o-ring) DO NOT START THE ENGINE. Locate the 14 gauge yellow/light blue wire at the left rear of the engine compartment. Disconnect the black in-line connector and momentarily jump the male connector that leads to the starter to the battery positive cable to crank the engine WITH THE KEY OFF. While cranking the engine observe the fuel filter housing for bubbles. If you see bubbles you have a faulty injector.

On really rare occasions an injector may loosen allowing combustion to leak past the copper injector seal and the lower fuel o-ring causing the same concern. I repeat, this is rare.

Other than this you won't be able to identify which injector has failed without a scan tool capable of performing a power balance test. When an injector fails in this manner a DTC may be set for the failed injector but because it displaces fuel in the fuel rail addition injectors will also misfire and usually set additional codes.

Good Luck!
__________________
Please DO NOT ask me to run an OASIS report for you.

Keith
Ford Diesel Master Technician
Diesel Technician Society
Diesel Mentor"

And I got no air bubles. It is only when the key is cycled and fuel is rushing in that the bubbles appear.

 

Also, while cranking and monitoring the ICP, the pressure seems to fluctuate. It will immediately go to 350 then up to just over 600 and then it will drop again to the 380-400 range and then back to high 5's and low 6's. It does this in an almost rythmic cycle.

 

I am sure you have already started, but you need to investigate where the air leak is coming from. It is good that it does not appear to be from the injectors. the most common culprit is a leaking o-ring on the primary fuel filter.


Edit -
Yeah - the fluctuation sounds like an IPR issue to me. Again, I would like to hear what cheezit thinks.