To all, especially Bismic and Cheezit. Simply because they asked for codes. My Autoenginuity arrived today (THANKS Clay @ riffraff diesel) and I was able to pull the codes, clear them and re-pull codes. they are as follows;

Original codes stored;
P0279 cyl. #7 injector circuit low
P0341 CPS issue
0403 EGR (unplugged)
0405 EGR (unplugged
0500 VSS
0683 GPCM to PCM communication error
2285 ICP
2287 ICP
2290 ICP
2291 ICP
2614 cam position sensor
2617 crank position sensor

(remember that I did start the truck with the ICP unplugged)

KOEO
0403 EGR
0405 EGR
1000 OBD system readiness test not complete
2285 ICP sensor circuit low

codes were then cleared and test run again. New codes are;

egr codes and also the ICP sensor circuit low. The key-in circuit also failed and OBDS system readiness test was not complete.

NOTE: each time I cleared the codes, I heard the "whoosh" sound that I described hearing in an earlier post when I would crank the engine (no start) and leave the key in the "on" position.

I am still learning how to use the autoenginuity system so my findings may not be complete, if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.

To recap, the truck lost power and died in flight. It would then not re-start. towed it home and unplugged the ICP, the engine started but ran like garbage/ Finally it died and would not re-start. I replaced the ICP and the pig-tail, still it will not start. I checked the FICM and have 48 volts in all 3 tests. Fuel is present in the secondary filter housing and fills rapidly when drained and the pump turned on.

Without tring to sound desperate.... HELP! I have already resigned myself to the fact that I may have to replace the HPOP AND injectors, but I am still hopeful that it could be something else.

 

can you check the value on the hpop with the ae tool?. i know a snap-on solus will convert oil pressure to a voltage reading.sure sounds like the hpop went south on you. also when i turn my key on and the buzz is going i have a similar whoosh noise after the key has been on for a second or two, i think it has something to do with the abs?.

 

I am told that the HPOP can be tested for duty cycle, but I have yet to figure that out. It may be that the engine must be running? As I said, this information was retrieved after having had the AE for only about 1/2 hour. I am extremely anxious to experiment with it and run it to it's FULL potential.

 

ok heres what you gonna need to look at
check the engine oil level.
icp voltage should be .18-.24v and 0-10psi koeo about .8-.9v koer and 500-600psi. if its not in that range you may have miswired the connector... been there done that. or disconnect it and try to start.

dont pay any mind to any cam/crank codes. with this you need to moniter sync and ficmsync if they dont swich to yes then worry about the cmp/ckp stuff.

moniter icp while cranking. and let us know. with an 03 if you have 0-50 psi suspect a failed ipr.
also remember if your over 500psi icp may not be the concern.
perfrom a network test. all the stuff there?


the hpp does not duty cycle the ipr does. the ipr just duty cycles an oil leak on the high pressure side to bleed off extra pressures. the pump is a constant volume pump whos volume is based soly on engine rpm.

 

Excellent info! Thanks. I am new to the AE software though so how do I "moniter icp while cranking. and let us know. with an 03 if you have 0-50 psi suspect a failed ipr." any ideas?
BTW... engine oil level is good. that was one of the first things I checked when it died.

 

I wish I could help with how to on the AE stuff but thats not the softwear we get at the dealer... nothing beats the ids setup.

o btw if you have 0-50 that would be any year not just 03. If you do have 0-50 it would be wise to make sure you have base oil pressure first. to do that remove the oil filter and hold down the button with a screwdrive and crank engine, if filter housing fills up you have base.

 

When I crank the engine, the oil pressure gauge doen't move.. at all... until it has been cranked over a coule of times. Then... on the second or third time cranking, the oil pressure guage goes up to the "normal" position. Should it rise to this position on the first crank cycle? I do realize that the factory sensor is not more than a glorified "switch"

 

if the resivior is empty then yes. this can be caused by air in the system, failed pump, failed ipr, failed low side pump. best to moniter icp pressure and voltage to see whats its doing then go by a 5 psi swich. like I said if icp is very low remove the filter to test base pressure. from there remove and inspect the ipr (the silenoid next to the icp sensor)
if the screen has a hole or is sucked in replace it and retest.

 

This "seems" like very good news. I was completely prepared to replce the HPOP and the injectors. I will check the base oil system per your suggestion. Do you feel (from the codes set) that the HPOP is not the culprit?

What do you mean by this... "then go by a 5 psi swich" ? BTW... if I haven't said it before... I REALLYYYYY appreciate your input and sugestions!

 

without the icp readings there is no way to awnser that. I have seen pumps, ipr valves, low side pumps all casue the same type of issue.
also like It would be advisable to look at the ficm pids, both sync pids.
also if you incorreclty wired the icp sensor connector then it would also casue the same concern. the fact that the p2285 is comming back makes me wonder.
also try disconnecting the epb and see if it will start. its possibel to get p2290 from a failed ebp or connector as well because of its relation to vref and sig return.

 

sorry missed that. ya go off of what the icp sensor is telling with the AE program not off of the gauge on the dash for oil pressure. you wount rally have high side pressure without low side pressure.

 

The replacement ICP had all 3 wires of the same color. I wll check it again, but I looked at all positions of wires from the original sensor and re-connected the wires accordingly. Top left. top right and bottom, to the corresponding color of the orginal sensor. What are the "pids" of the FICM? I checked voltage and that was at 48 volts.

 

Doesnt the guage read low pressure? if I have a guage reading "normal" I would assume to have low pressure oil. I will check this tomorrow with the filter removed to see the volume of oil in the housing.

 

if its working correctly it will.. the do call them gauges and not accurates for a reason..

im gonna go a little off topic here but I wonder if there is a way to use the ae softwear remotly.

 

man, Im not sure of that... but if there is, I'm more than willing to give it a try! Maybe Bismic (Mark) or someone else who is more familiar with it could chime in on this?