So if any of you read my Project Flareside Rebuild you would have seen that I rolled my truck over about a year and a half ago. I rebuilt it and got that done this past may. I didnt go through the motor at all, which came back to bite me in the a$$. I was running late for graduation and pushing it hard. So now its burning oil, and its been leaking it since I put it on the road. So now Im going to go through and build the motor and swap it to carb. Im looking at building the 351w into a 393 stroker as I can get all the machining done out here at college for nothing and after some of the classes here of rebuilding diesel engines im comfortable in rebuilding this motor. But then I have the problem that I have a e4od trans which needs the fuel injection computer to run or I could run a piggyback computer but I dont like the idea of that. So I would like to do a 5 speed. I know there are a couple different models so Im not sure what one to use.

So here are my questions.
1. What trans and transfercase do I need since Im going to be pushing close to 400 horse and tourque?
2. What else will I need to swap the 5 speed in?
3. Will the factory 8.8 rear and dana 44 front hold up to that much power?

Thanks in advance.

Edit:Title

 

just to warn you ahead of time you are goin to get a $#!+ton of posts asking why the hell you'd get rid of fuel injunktion. i say zf 5spd and b-w1356 combo out of 250/350. fairly stout combo and easy to find/swap. factory axles will hold up as long as you stick to a smaller size tire and a less aggressive tread pattern. i think you'll need a different master cylinder but i'm not sure what else. if you find a good donor truck in a junk yard you should be able to scrounge all parts needed and you can work your way from there

 

if you are going to spend the money building a stroker y not keep it fuel injection and put mass air on it a performance intake manifold high output injectors etc etc etc

 

told ya so

 

Because mass air means mass money. As done any other fuel injection. I can have this one putting out more power for less. And if something goes wrong out on the trail. I dont need a laptop to fix it.

I only plan on running a 33 inch tire.

 

should be fine then, just don't forget power+traction= broken parts, so no holeshots with boggers on pavement unless u like fixing broken axleshafts.

 

Knowing what would be involved in making an EFI 393 run respectably in one of these trucks I can understand the urge to go carbed, it's too bad the SD computers aren't easier to hack because it sure would make life a lot easier. I have about $2k invested in the "stuff" that is needed to have a fully tunable EFI system.. which is in addition to whatever you spend on a motor, fuel system, and intake. And then you have to learn how to use it which really does take a lot of time and patience, so it is not a simple endevor if you want maximum performance from your investment.

 

OBD1 you dont need a laptop to fix it jeez honestly a EFI engine can put out more power for less too if it is tuned correctly The money you will be saving in doing the carb conversion you will lose in gas milage Plus You dont have to adjust a EFI engine for altitude the computer automatically does it, or cold or heat etc etc etc. But its your rig Do it if you want but please make sure to post a sound bite of that bad boy when you get done

 

he didn't ask your opinion on if he should go carbed or not, he asked what to do to go carbed

i don't know about that e4od deal but just run a toggled hot wire to your enertia switch to turn on the fuel pump and get some fittings from russell performance and some braided line to go from the fuel filter to the bypass regulator to the carb then run a return line off the regulator back to the tank that is at least 3/8ths get a new dissy that works with a carb wire it all up and your good to go

forgot to mention you can use the white wire that goes to the factory dissy as switched power wire when you wire up your new dissy

have fun if you have any questions just pm me but i don't really come around here too much i mostly am on pirate now

 

an ajustable fuel pressure regulator will be needed to step down to the4-7psi for a carb

 

Can't the high pressure pump be bypassed for it to work with the carb?

 

yea or u can just get a pressure regulator

 

This project is still in the research sage as I am in college. But Ill be graduating in less than a year. So in just over a year I hope to have this project running. Probably not complete but running. As for the fuel milage im only getting 10 with my fuel injection and that was even before I rolled the truck over. This truck is turning into my toy/weekend driver basically.

I saw reccomendation for a ZF 5 speed and Borg Werner 1356 out of a f250/350. How can I tell if it is it? What do you reccomend for a clutch? Will I need to change crossmembers?

As for the launches on dry pavement. The only time it turns tires on pavement is when there is nothing left for tread. Otherwise I baby my tires.

 

i was giving you $#!+ about launches. as far as i know zf5's started in 1987 in 250/350/450's. there are 2 different gearsets, one is close ratio and the other is wide ratio. for what you're talking about i'd at least look for your local parts shop's heavy duty replacement or better, but the stronger you go the less streetable you get. i don't know about crossmembers, but they might interchange from the 250/350 frame, if not, you're in school. use that shop as much as you can. make friends with somone in the welding and fabrication classes, or take some while you can

 

Ill be in a welding class before I graduate, and actually if someone could get me dimensions or a picture/drawing with dimensions that would be great as part of this project will be boxing the frame and building STRONG crossmembers. This thing is probably going to ride like a brick shi* house.

Fatdan60
I know you were just messing with me. I like your signature line. thats funny now that i read it again.