I am NO fan of EFI ..............People were doing just fine with carbs since 1903 (and fixing and tuning them without mechanics or computers).......However, There's one place EFI shines,......cold starts on COLD days, its really nice not to have to deal with a stumbling carb. on 10deg days. Something to consider since you live where it gets REALLY COLD!

 

Ok, back to topic. I realize the downfalls of a carb. Im not asking about that right now. I got my daily driver, this is my weekend rider. So refer to my last post.

 

There's a big difference between someone wanting to go carb because "that dang nab fuel injected crap has too many wires and vacuum lines and I can't be bothered to learn it" and "I want a lot of power but don't have a lot of money."

Most of the time I'd say stick with EFI, but in this case, a carb is probably the way to go. Tuning a 393w EFI stroker requires a big learning curve and can get expensive real quick.

So to answer your questions:

I would go with either a built C6 or a ZF 5 speed. If you go with a manual, there are two different ZF models. One is rated to 420 lb-ft and the other is rated to 470. There is a 42 or 47 in the model number to indicate which is which. The transfer case doesn't matter. If you are worried about it and want the ultimate strength then find a cast iron NP 205. They never break. Twin-stick it for kicks.

You'll need: pedal assembly, flywheel, clutch, master & slave cylinders, crossmember, shifter boot, and altered driveshafts. One will be shorter and the other will be longer.

The answer to the last question depends entirely on what size tires you have.

 

33's. Right now they are stock. But I plan on running a 33 1050 15 off road tire. Maybe a master craft courser ct or mt

 

And thank you for answer my questions

 

I think the answer also depends on how you're planning on driving it. If you are going to drive it fast and hard on pavement and off-road it then I wouldn't expect the 8.8" axle to last long. At least get some upgraded shafts and a c-clip eliminator kit. I would say get a 9" but then you have to make your own VSS.

What's your rear differential? Locker, limited slip or open?

 

Right now its Limited slip. Im thinking about a selectable locker. What is VSS?

 

vehicle speed sensor. another computer gremlin. i believe it runs the speedo and sends signals to the abs sensor

 

Is there another option for speed? I have never had a vehicle with abs that worked and never had a problem with inspections before. So Im not to worried about needing abs

 

I mean speedometer

 

The same sensor runs both the speedometer and the ABS in 1992-1996 trucks. If you use a 9" axle there is no provision for the speed sensor so the speedometer won't work. There are ways around it but you will have to get creative if you want to go that route. It would probably be easier (although more expensive) if you get better shafts and a c-clip eliminator kit.

 

I don't think the 8.8 will have any problems with 33's as long as you add some traction bars or ladders to pevent axle wrap and appropriate gears. A semifloating 10.25 is stronger and has a VSS but won't address the axle wrap problem, and it will need custom axles if you want to retain the 5x5.5" bolt pattern.

 

you could also look into a watercraft gps speedometer. forgot the brand name

 

Sorry for not coming back to the thread. Kinda put the research on the back burner, had a pretty involved class for college and a bunch of other stuff going on in life. So time to bring this back to life. Did some driving with my brothers truck this weekend and realized why i liked automatics so much. So now Im waying my options between the c6 and the zf. First problem so far is I cant find a zf anywhere near here. So with the C6, what would be involved in swapping that in instead? And instead of running a steering column shifter, is it possible to have a floor shift, or possibly a dash shift? Kinda like how a car has it where its setup like a pistol shift (i think thats the wording I want).

I have been thinking about the speedo issue and realized that pretty much any gps unit has a speedo right in it, the only downfall is that it wouldn't show wheel slip (but of course, the motor revving out and the speed not changing is a good indication of that lol).

As for axles, I have been looking at doing a straight front axle swap which means stepping up to a Dana 60? I figured if I can find a f250 or 350 with the solid front to get the front and rear axle, as well as the front steering linkage/suspension?

This project will be getting done in phases. Already done the body. Next will be motor/trans and box the frame. And while doing the break in driving (since I'll be taking it easy on everything) I'll do axles/suspension.

Comments? Questions? Suggestions other than keeping the fuel injection?

 

don't box the frame. it flexes like it should, unless you plan to make 600+hp. if you are going to go through the hassle of a sas, go with 1 ton's and never worry about it again. stock 1 ton's will take more abuse than built half ton's any day of the week. and as a young guy with bad knee's that has a zf 5 spd, all i can say is that they are great strong trannies, but i would trade mine for a c-6 in a heart beat. they are great for a truck trans. as for auto's, it depends how much cash you want to spend. i'm a big block guy, so i can find 4x4 c-6's everywhere, and they are simple and solid. sbf pattern c-6's are less common, but unless you plan to drive the hi-way a lot in this truck, i would go c-6 for an auto that will take abuse and live with it