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any easy answer - Lifter Tick

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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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any easy answer - Lifter Tick

Hi all,

89 aero 3.0L

Get a lifter tick when engine is cold, and goes away after 5 mins or so...

Anything I could try short of pulling the head/replacing the lifter? I wanted to do an engine degreaser that would work, but I've read bad things can happen with plugging up your oil pump screen, etc...

I can live with it, and have, but it can't be good to leave it like that over time...

thoughts? will a better/different oil be a good start? - I run 10/40 all the time, conventional - engine seems to like it, but would a synthetic be better for a while? how about a safe engine treatment?

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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I would switch from 10-40 to 5w30. The ticking is in part caused by oil starvation during startup, and this is in part because the thicker oil does not flow as freely, resulting in lower pressures to the valvetrain components during startup. The engine was designed for 5w30, and even after some wear sets in, the clearances remain relatively unchanged.

A safe engine treatment, which is a one time use type thing, is Rislone. It is a detergent that seems to remove gunk and varnish that could interfere with oil flow. If one treatment doesn't clear the problem, chances are that it is due to excessive clearance between parts, which is a result of wear.

I would try switching to a lighter oil after running a Rislone treatment. Also make sure you use top quality filters, no Fram or generic junk, run Wix, Purolator, or Motorcraft filters. Myself, I use a Mobil1 Extended life filter (made by either Wix or Purolator, not sure which)
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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Hi,

Yeah, esp in the colder weather, I know that 5w 30 is better for her, but in the summer 10w 40 seems to run smoother when it's really hot out in the dead of summer...

I'll try that rislone product, and see what happens... yeah, I like Wix filters a lot - can't get them here though - I used to use them all the time when I lived farther south, etc...

i have been guilty of Fram, but I use their extra guard/ tough guard and never their standard ones... I like the grip at the end... but I hear ya... Motorcraft are what I would love to get, but they are pricey around here... Purolator One filters are what I try to buy if they are on sale ever...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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Use motorcraft filter..only IMO
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mediaman67
Hi,

Yeah, esp in the colder weather, I know that 5w 30 is better for her, but in the summer 10w 40 seems to run smoother when it's really hot out in the dead of summer...

I'll try that rislone product, and see what happens... yeah, I like Wix filters a lot - can't get them here though - I used to use them all the time when I lived farther south, etc...

i have been guilty of Fram, but I use their extra guard/ tough guard and never their standard ones... I like the grip at the end... but I hear ya... Motorcraft are what I would love to get, but they are pricey around here... Purolator One filters are what I try to buy if they are on sale ever...
I agree to a point. However, 5w30 is still the proper weight in the summer. The second number is the viscosity index at operating temperature. The operating temperature in the summer and winter are really not that different. The engine still has a thermostat the regulates the coolant temp, which in turn regulates the block temp. Of course it will run slightly cooler in winter, but not enough to justify running 40 weight. The proper oil to use is dictated more by the clearances in the engine, and those are not going to change that much with changes in temperature. The 4.0l was designed to use 5w30 all year round. If you run 10w40 the lifters, which are governed by hydralic pressure will not operate correctly, resulting in excessive clearances and sloppyness which can cause noise. The lighter oil will flow more freely and increase pressure to the lifters.

On the filter, if you can't find the good stuff locally, try RockAuto Auto Parts.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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It is funny, but you can repare lifers. Usually tick ore nock problem becouse carbon/oil deposits inside them. Pull out lifters and remove lock ring from them and put them apart. Drop all parts in solvent and then lubricate them with motor oil, assembly all and they will work for some years....
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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hey Pablo! - glad to see you are still reading these, even after you sold your Aero... :-)

The thing is, just getting the covers off on an aero would be tricky, since you can't even see 1/2 of the cover... :-)

I agree with you 100% on the 4.0L - I tried running 10w40 in my Explorer, and it ran horrible - it really didn't like 40 weight oil at all, even in the summer, so I switched right back, and now only run 5w 30 in that engine, period.

The 3.0L didn't seem to matter as much... but maybe I'm just now starting to notice it rearing it's ugly head :-)

How does ristone compare to Marvel Mys Oil (MMO) - I don't want new leaks.... I only have one that is slow, and doesn't bother me too much, don't want 5 new ones or a huge new one :-)

or, should I just switch to the 30 weight, and be done with it with no engine treatment first....

Ciao
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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Marvel Mystery oil is a dated product that has been around since the dawn of the dinosaurs. It can sometimes help, but an ester based solvent like Rislone or AutoRX is a better choice.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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right, that makes sense - I have heard really good things about ARX - but never wanted to spend the money to try it... I'll have to try some Ristone...

What about the Seaform deal - where you pour some in the brake booster, in the gas tank, and in the oil, run it for 10 mins, drain the oil.... does that work, besides a putting out a huge cloud of smoke! :-)
 
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 12:24 AM
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It does work very well. I would not add it to the oil though. I use it myself once in a while. It doesn't put out much smoke on mine though. How much it puts out seems to be partly dependant on how much carbon you have.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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ok, so only use it at the booster and in the gas tank, or booster only?

seems like a good thing to do... do I just let it idle while I add it? is there a sticky on the procedure?

how do you run the Ristore stuff? one bottle to replace one qt of oil, and leave it in? or is it a run for 10 min and drain sort of thing?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:53 AM
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Not Restore. Rislone. Restore is a snake oil seal sweller that supposedly stops leaks. Don't touch that stuff, it causes unseen damage.

Rislone or AutoRX is a solvent that safely removes deposits. You replace oil with it and run till you are ready to change it out.

For adding the Seafoam, the instructions are on the can.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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Thanks, now that the weather is warmer, I'll have to try all those things... sorry, I meant rislone... not restore... I knew that was junk...

so, I guess I'll run 5w-30 and a bottle of rislone, and see what happens - just today, I noticed that it's not as loud, and is usual when the outside temp is higher (was 60+ here today on st patty's!)
 
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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From: Washington state
just drain a qt of your present motor oil and add a qt of Rislone and a half can of Berryman B12, less than half the price of the expensive Seafoam and the same ingredients.
Universal Additive
run for a couple hundred miles
do an oil change
good to go.

caution: any of these engine cleaners can open up and clean carbon and deposits sealing up old worn hardened seals causing oil leaks

Originally Posted by mediaman67
Thanks, now that the weather is warmer, I'll have to try all those things... sorry, I meant rislone... not restore... I knew that was junk...

so, I guess I'll run 5w-30 and a bottle of rislone, and see what happens - just today, I noticed that it's not as loud, and is usual when the outside temp is higher (was 60+ here today on st patty's!)
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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Speaking of which, I have a love/hate relationship with Tracerline products. You add it to your oil, drive for a while and then shine a black-light on the engine to see where the leaks are. They will glow back at you. My major leak seems to be the rear seal which means the transmission needs to be pulled. The other offender is the rear of my lower intake manifold


 
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