I don't have any pictures yet, because I just saw it in person and put money down, but expect to pay it off within a week and have it home.

Here's what I know:

Medium-dark blue 1974 F-250 4x4, NP205 transfer case, Dana 60 rear, Dana 44 front, unknown manual transmission, 360 engine, power (assist) steering, power brakes, 8-lug axles, VIN=F26YRT44772, everything works except the emergency brake is bound up.

I think that's pretty much the origins of Bigfoot 1, right?

Questions:
What kinds of manual transmissions could this vehicle have? I'm guessing it could only be either a NP435 or T18? If so, is it easy to tell them apart? How? I'm guessing the NP435 is the better trans?

What gear ratio options could this have from the factory? Do you know how to figure it out? I'm roughly guessing 4.10's, but would like to know what's in it.

Could the factory differentials be open, limited-slip, or lockers, and could they differ front and rear?

The seller pointed out the factory manifolds (it's a very un-modified truck), but also that one is leaking. Any advice on this? I'm hoping it's as easy as unbolting it, forcing it out of the way, putting a new gasket on, and tightening it down again?

I just bought the factory service manual set and owner's manual online, but I'm really excited about my project truck and was wondering if anyone knows the answers to these questions.

My goal is to restore it to factory condition, though I may replace the 360 rotating assembly with one from a 390, and put an aluminum intake and 600cfm 4-barrel on it (probably Proform). Otherwise, I will (eventually) have everything rebuilt, POR-15 the underside, etc.

I will post pictures soon. Thanks.

 

I'm thinking about calling it Big Mouth.

I've heard that you can change the 73-77 power-assist steering to the better 78-79 power steering. I'm having a hard time finding info about this. Can anyone point me to an article detailing how to do this?

Another question is, does anybody know the curb weight of a factory 74 High Boy?

Many thanks.

 

in terms of the manual, to tell them apart:
- a T18 will have a sloped belly and will have BORGXWARNER stamped into the side
- a NP435 will have a flat belly and will have an aluminum top

in terms of the limited slip, im pretty sure those only came with 78 and 79, but I could be wrong. it'll have a L in between the numbers on the ID on the differential

 

Most highboys have 4.10 gears. If it came with limited slip it would be rare for it to still be operational.
See what kind of shape the power assist has, if it is in good shape there is nothing wrong with it.
If you happen to run across a front end from a 76 up it is a nice upgrade and you will like the discs much better, also the parts are getting hard to find for the closed knuckle.

Be careful with the manifold bolts and spray the top ones with penetrating oil every day for a couple days before trying to remove it. The design of the FE makes them bad about twisting off.

 

I can tell from your VIN you have the earlier Garrison p/a control valve not the later (and better imo) Bendix p/a control valve, your truck seems to be pretty unmolested and original so it may be in good working order, if so i'd just keep it then maybe do the 78/79 swap down the road if need be.

 

I've got some pics in my gallery on how I did the steering conversion.

 

Thanks for all the good replies. bucks77ford, that's a really nice rebuild, congrats! Do you know is it possible I can buy all the parts brand new for the front end conversion? I see I'll have to weld that plate on the frame rail for the steering box, but that should be pretty easy.

If my current Dana 44 up there is hard to get parts for, then I should really plan on switching. Is it possible to, say, order up a Dana 44 from Moser or somewhere that will work with the newer style of steering? Thanks.

 

The open knuckle later D44s are pretty common so you shouldn't have much of a problem finding a used axle. You can get complete rebuilt axles, but they are way more expensive than just trying to find a used one.

 

the manifolds gaskets are not hard to change. It was said above to spray them and that's important. I used PB blaster and mine came right out with out braking any off. also make sure you start all of them before you tighten them up or you wont get some of them in.