Installing Distributor 302
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Michigan
Installing Distributor 302
I ordered a new dist. for an 1983 F-150 2wd w/302. The old dist. is out, so is this the right sequence for getting the dist. back in properly?
1. Turn the motor over so the pointer on the damper is at TDC.
2. Drop the dist. in w/ the rotor pointing at #1 clylinder (1:00) on cap.
3. Set timing with motor running and vacumn line plugged.
Is the timing for this motor suppose to be at 8 degrees BTDC? Don't have a chiltons. Also what is the firing order for this motor?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Bob
1. Turn the motor over so the pointer on the damper is at TDC.
2. Drop the dist. in w/ the rotor pointing at #1 clylinder (1:00) on cap.
3. Set timing with motor running and vacumn line plugged.
Is the timing for this motor suppose to be at 8 degrees BTDC? Don't have a chiltons. Also what is the firing order for this motor?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Bob
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Make sure #1 is on the compression stroke when you bring it up to TDC, feel for air being pushed out the spark plug hole as the motor is manually cranked towards TDC to ensure both valves are closed. The timing mark on the crank should also be at 0 when you get the right spot
When you insert the the dizzy and the gears mesh the rotor will turn so you want to do it so that the rotor ends up pointing to the right spot, and that spot will be with the rotor pointing at #1 post on the distributor cap, not cyl #1.. not sure you understood that by your post.
And yes set timing with vacuum disconnected from the didtributor and plugged. 8-10deg is spec but don't be afraid to try a little more if the motor will take it without pinging under load, this will improve TQ and milage.
Firing order is 15426378.
When you insert the the dizzy and the gears mesh the rotor will turn so you want to do it so that the rotor ends up pointing to the right spot, and that spot will be with the rotor pointing at #1 post on the distributor cap, not cyl #1.. not sure you understood that by your post.
And yes set timing with vacuum disconnected from the didtributor and plugged. 8-10deg is spec but don't be afraid to try a little more if the motor will take it without pinging under load, this will improve TQ and milage.
Firing order is 15426378.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
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From: NE Texas
You got some good instructions. The only thing that I would add is that when removing and replacing a Ford distributor you should pay close attention to the oil pump shaft. Make sure you see it before stabbing the distributor and pay close attention to oil pressure after start up.
If you DON'T see the oil pump shaft it has fallen in the pan. Pull the pan and put the shaft back in place, taking care to get the star washer positioned so that the shaft won't pull out next time.
If you DON'T see the oil pump shaft it has fallen in the pan. Pull the pan and put the shaft back in place, taking care to get the star washer positioned so that the shaft won't pull out next time.
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Senior User
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From: Michigan
Thanks guys, the dist. should show up today or tomarrow so when I get it in I'll let you know how it went. Keeping my fingers crossed the oil pump rod didn't drop into the pan 
. I don't think so though.
Bob
. I don't think so though. Bob
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Senior User
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From: Michigan
The dist. showed up and got it in alright. Set the timing and everything seems to be working fine. Runs better than before. Thanks guys. Now I got my son out of the house till the next thing breaks 
.
.
New User
Joined: Feb 2021
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Starts and dies!
Make sure #1 is on the compression stroke when you bring it up to TDC, feel for air being pushed out the spark plug hole as the motor is manually cranked towards TDC to ensure both valves are closed. The timing mark on the crank should also be at 0 when you get the right spot
When you insert the the dizzy and the gears mesh the rotor will turn so you want to do it so that the rotor ends up pointing to the right spot, and that spot will be with the rotor pointing at #1 post on the distributor cap, not cyl #1.. not sure you understood that by your post.
And yes set timing with vacuum disconnected from the didtributor and plugged. 8-10deg is spec but don't be afraid to try a little more if the motor will take it without pinging under load, this will improve TQ and milage.
Firing order is 15426378.
When you insert the the dizzy and the gears mesh the rotor will turn so you want to do it so that the rotor ends up pointing to the right spot, and that spot will be with the rotor pointing at #1 post on the distributor cap, not cyl #1.. not sure you understood that by your post.
And yes set timing with vacuum disconnected from the didtributor and plugged. 8-10deg is spec but don't be afraid to try a little more if the motor will take it without pinging under load, this will improve TQ and milage.
Firing order is 15426378.
you have great knowledge so that’s why I wanted to ask you about the problem I’m facing. I recently changed my intake and had to take the dis out. Now I can’t seem to figure it out. My balancer doesn’t have timing written on it. So when I did try to put the dis back in after finding TDC my mustang 69 would start up and die and it’s keep doing that. Now it’s also making a whistle sound too not sure where that’s coming from..... either. What you suggest I do?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Whistling, especially right after intake manifold work, is most likely an air leak. Assuming you properly installed the gaskets, check for a vacuum leak, a big one, as it's whistling.
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yeah the gasket and everything was installed correctly. When you say vacuum? Where’s that located?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
The intake manifold should have a "tree" on it some where that all the vacuum lines attach to. If you have power assisted brakes, you will have a big vacuum line that goes from the vacuum booster to a large port on the vacuum tree, or directly to the intake manifold. There could also be a big opening on the manifold or the base of the carburetor for the PCV valve. If either of those are left open, you will be letting too much air uncontrolled air into the engine, and it will not run.
There are other smaller vacuum lines that come from the tree to go to other devices, like for the temperature controller for the air intake to the carburetor. any emission control equipment like the thermactor air injector or EGR. or if you have AC in the car, vacuum controlled air doors in the air box.
See if you can find a vacuum hose routing diagram for your engine for a more complete picture.
There are other smaller vacuum lines that come from the tree to go to other devices, like for the temperature controller for the air intake to the carburetor. any emission control equipment like the thermactor air injector or EGR. or if you have AC in the car, vacuum controlled air doors in the air box.
See if you can find a vacuum hose routing diagram for your engine for a more complete picture.
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