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292 distributor install problem

  #1  
Old 09-23-2004, 08:41 AM
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292 distributor install problem

In my quest to get my '59 292 started one of the things I'm doing is replacing the distributor.
I've taken the old one out...the new one is here.....but....
I have also taken the plugs out and filled with marvel mystery oil to unstick pistons.....after taking distributor out I (doh is me) did a turn of the crankshaft which I've been doing ever so often
...so....the crank is not aligned to dist gear any more
I read in my shop manual to turn 1st piston to something....

anyway...what do I do now? how do I know what position piston one is in? etc.?

obviously a novice,
thanks,
crutch
(btw - the new Pirates of the Caribbean movie is rated Arrgh!)
 
  #2  
Old 09-23-2004, 08:59 AM
312
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if your a novice your probley going to have a hard time with this.get someone to help you who knows.
 
  #3  
Old 09-23-2004, 01:47 PM
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I agree a knowlegable helper would be faster. But you can try this:
-Pull plug #1- thats the passenger side cyl up front by the radiator
-Look at the pulley at the lower front of the engine and hand crank or bump the motor until you see the timing mark (ususally a little indentation) move up to the straight up 12oclock position (usually there is a sheetmetal bent up arrow attatched to the block to help.
-put a small finger thru #1 plug hole, you should feel the top of the piston
-pull off the valve cover on this pass side of the motor
- if both #1 valves are closed (springs fully extended) you are at the power stroke of the motor and can line up the dist. If either are open you will need to crank the motor another 180 degrees
- now looking east west across the motor from pass to driver side you want to line up the dist rotor notch so the rotor contact to the dist cap is at about 2 oclock (6 oclock would be straight across the motor toward the pass side cyl bank) that 2 oclock is also where that #1 wire will come out of the cap once its on
- the tough part is to slide the dist base assy in with enough 'lead' to one side so the spiral gears that drive the dist seat on the right tooth. Standing on the motor may help and clearance to the firewall is tight. WHen you nail it, the base mount bolt will thread, the rotor will point to the #1 wire contact on your cap, AND you will have some free rotation of the dist to set the timing before the vac advance (the silver dome looking affair on the side of the dist) clunks into the top of the intake manifold.
- reassemble and set the timing .

Its a bit of a 'cusser' but almost all of us Y blockers have done it once, or twice, or.....
 
  #4  
Old 09-23-2004, 04:26 PM
Danny
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Crutch-

There are several ways to do this, but I'll describe an easy way to get it right if you do not have a helper.

1. Remove the spark plugs, and fit a wine bottle cork into #1 cylinder. On a Y, this is at the front on the left side as you face the engine.

2. Using the starter in short bursts, turn the engine over until the cork pops out due to the compression. This cylinder will now be close to top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

3. Insert a long skinny screwdriver into the spark plug hole, and using a socket (13/16" ?) on the bolt at the front of the lower pulley, carefully turn the engine over backwards and forwards. You will feel the piston moving up or down the bore. The idea is to position the piston at the top of its travel. Do this very slowly and carefully so you don't break the screwdriver !

Alternatively you can use the timing marks on the lower pully, (marked TDC), but they are often hard to see, and often not positioned right anymore due to slippage of the outer ring on the balancer. The screwdriver method is more accurate, just go slowly.

4. Now is the time to double check your distributor before you drop it in. Make sure you have a new set of points and condenser, and that the point gap is set to about .017". Use a small amount of distributor cam lube (usually comes with a new set of points), and smear it on the distributor cam. Don't over do it- just a dab. Make sure the shaft turns freely and without excess play. At this point a little wear is not a big worry, you just want to get this thing to run right?

Fit the cap to the disributor. The number one spark plug tower is sometimes indicated on the cap, but if it isn't, normally the number one tower is located at the first tower clockwise from the cap hold down clip opposite from the vacuum advance canister. Mark the side of the distributor with a magic marker in a line with the number one spark plug tower. Remove the cap and install the rotor on to the distributor.

5. Insert the distributor. You will see the rotor start to turn as you drop it in as the gear egages the gear on the camshaft. The clips holding the distributor cap should be at about 9-10 O'clock and 3-4 O'clock more or less. The rotor should be pointing close to the mark you made on the side of the distributor or about 9-10 O'clock.

You will now notice that the distributor probably wont want to seat all the way down into the block cavity. That's because the hex shaped oil pump shaft must engage the hole in the bottom of the distributor shaft. Just bump the starter with the key and it should fall right in. Once it is seated, get the number 1 piston back to TDC and check the position of the distributor rotor.

At the end of the day, the end of the rotor contact needs to align with the number one spark plug wire when the cap is in position, with #1 piston at TDC. It may be neccessary to turn the distributor or perhapas pull the distributor out and turn it a tooth one way or the other until it's right. Install the hold down clamp, just tight enough so you can turn the distributor body until it fires.

Remember, the rotor turns counter-clockwise when the engine is running, so the firing order must go counter-clockwise.

The firing order is 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2. 1-4 is on the left side (facing the engine), and 5-8 are on the right side.

The motor should fire right up, and you can turn the distributor (usually a little bit clock-wise) to advance the timing a little until you can set it properly with a timing ligght to about 8 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).

Good luck, and have fun with it-

Danny
 
  #5  
Old 09-23-2004, 07:59 PM
286merc
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Lets not get carried away with complications here, it is really nice and simple.

First of all leave the plugs out and continue bumping the engine until it is unstuck.

Then spin it over on the startrer until all the Mystery Oil is blown out. You DO NOT want any oil in the bores when she fires off.

Now rig up a remote starter switch and spin it over with your finger over the #1 hole. You will feel the compression stroke. Do it several times until you get the rythmn when to let off the switch. Then rock the crank while holding a pencil, wood dowel or any non metallic item into the bore. Find TDC as mentioned and follow the comments above on stabbing the dizzie in place.

Quick and dirty stock car track procedure, no rocket science involved.
 
  #6  
Old 09-23-2004, 08:05 PM
Danny
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Careful with that pencil or wood dowel. They break off REAL easily,and are hard to get out (non-metallic). There is no danger using the screwdriver- all it will touch is the top of the piston. Good idea to clean out the oil though!

Danny
 
  #7  
Old 09-23-2004, 08:38 PM
286merc
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Id rather have a broken pencil than an accident with a metal item. Pencil parts will blow out when fired off and cause no damage.
 
  #8  
Old 09-24-2004, 06:32 PM
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Thanks! All great info (especially to find someone who knows what they're doing). I've started on your advice and will post any success.
crutch
 
  #9  
Old 09-25-2004, 11:56 PM
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the truth of the matter is that you can drop the distributor in any where, roll up #1 as discribed earlier, remove the cap ,then note where the rotor is pointing then use that position on the cap as #1 then follow the firing order i have done this numerous times .engines do really care where #1 as long as the firing order is correct and you follow the right rotation mike(hawktrucks)
 
  #10  
Old 07-31-2018, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny View Post
Crutch-

There are several ways to do this, but I'll describe an easy way to get it right if you do not have a helper.

1. Remove the spark plugs, and fit a wine bottle cork into #1 cylinder. On a Y, this is at the front on the left side as you face the engine.

2. Using the starter in short bursts, turn the engine over until the cork pops out due to the compression. This cylinder will now be close to top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

Danny
Thanks Danny whoever you are, that saved me a bunch of time, I had to move the engine to get the oil pump drive shaft to line up... and messed up my careful alignment... thought I couldn't be that far off.. it was like 120 degrees off, as verified by the cork
 
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