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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #16  
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From: Thomasville, GA
Originally Posted by Krisx125
GOOD ADVICE! KEEP IT STOCK DP!! My stock one is out...and cannot get the new 2 piece MBRP down pipe in...cant even get to the fire wall seam to make the cut. Unless the new down pipe adds 1,000hp doesnt seem worth it LOL..Just my 2 cents.
Shouldn't be that hard to put in. Slide the top piece in from the engine bay twisting it a bit. then slide the bottom piece up.

Sawzall to cut the seam in two places and then a 2x4 or portapower to bend it. Should fit pretty well.

A 3" downpipe will let the turbo spool faster and lower EGT's. WOrth the upgrade.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #17  
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I apologize, i was a little hot headed on this project today. After i cooled down i figured out how to get my sawzall into the place to cut the seam..Then after looking i found my attachments for my porta power. After bending it a little bit it fit like a glove. HOWEVER! while cutting the down pipe from the top side, i hit the up pipe to the turbo...Bone head move. So i had to stop and weld it. So all in all its been a blast. but it seems worth it i guess. I just have alot of vibration so i have to adjust a few things. Does anyone have vibration?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #18  
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The vibration is from the DP hitting the firewall. You just need to "massage" the wall some more lol, now that you have the atachments for the portapower (did you find the one that I was talking about?) it shouldn't be a problem at all, 20 min tops.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #19  
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oops...its all in and welded. haha maybe i can do some more fixin. And yes i did find the piee after i got off the phone with you. LOL it sounds soooooo good...my trucks just so long its hard to hear. Now i need that tip from you. I wasnt able to make it to the get together, maybe we can meet up this weekend?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #20  
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this might be a stupit question but thought of it after i replaced my stock DP with a 3 inch tymar, The stock pipe is 4.5 inches by 1.5 inches which = 6 inch total diamater and a 3 inch round pipe would also be 6 inch total. What am i missing here?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 10:04 PM
  #21  
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From: Rio Rancho NM
Your figures don't add up to the "diameters." If your measurements are correct and are internal dimensions, the stock pipe would have 6.75 sqin of cross sectional area for exhaust flow. The problem is that it's narrow, has a sharp bend or two and is a huge restriction to flow. This slows turbo spooling, robs power and builds up excess heat. The 3in round pipe has about 7 sqin cross sectional area, not much more than the stock DP by your measurements. But compare them side by side. How can you not see that the 3in round DP will flow way better than the stock DP. If you've ever taken fluid dynamics (gases are fluid), you'll understand that fluids flow best in a round pipe or tube with gradual bends and minimal cross sectional area changes and other interruptions to flow. These interruptions to flow define the stock DP - rectangular, tight, sharp bends, etc. If you plan on other go fast goodies, a good DP is an absolute MUST.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 10:20 PM
  #22  
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Here's my cut up stock DP, the stock DP next to my first 3in DP, and finally my aFe 4in exhaust kit with a DP that starts out 3in, then goes to 3.5, then 4in. I straight piped the whole exhaust. No muff or kitty. You have to agree a round DP is way better than the stock one. If you still have your cat you may want to think about gutting or removing it too. All they do is collect soot and restrict flow.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 01:15 AM
  #23  
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From: Billerica, MA
Originally Posted by Krisx125
oops...its all in and welded. haha maybe i can do some more fixin. And yes i did find the piee after i got off the phone with you. LOL it sounds soooooo good...my trucks just so long its hard to hear. Now i need that tip from you. I wasnt able to make it to the get together, maybe we can meet up this weekend?
Well even with it all welded up you can still disconnect it at the top and the bottom and be able to wiggle it around enough to get at the pinch weld a little bit, just a bit harder now haha. If I was you I wouldn't have welded the DP up because if you ever have to take it out for some reason it will become a rather large PITA lol. I might be able to meet up this weekend, but I'm not sure I work friday to sunday all day and night on call and I have to be within 15 minutes of a call. I might be able to get my buddy to cover for me for a few hours but I'm not sure. I'm much easier to meet up with during the week, but we'll work something out.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 07:39 AM
  #24  
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lol, i brought my truck to my buddys shop to have him piece some pipe from the dp to the exhaust system...because i removed the cat and needed about 2 feet to make up the difference. And i left for a second to get a drink and cameback and he frigging welded it. I was not happy....
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by wheelie31
this might be a stupit question but thought of it after i replaced my stock DP with a 3 inch tymar, The stock pipe is 4.5 inches by 1.5 inches which = 6 inch total diamater and a 3 inch round pipe would also be 6 inch total. What am i missing here?
It is a fluid dynamics thing. Turbulant flow vs Laminar flow I believe. The circular pipe has more are that is not effected by the exhaust passing the wall of the pipe. The best way to think of it is breath through a straw then flatten it out and try to breath through it. Kinda gives you the same effect of the stock DP vs the 3" DP.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #26  
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I had some vibration that started a few months after the downpipe install. Just shifted around a little bit while driving so I adjusted it and tightened it back up and it's great now. Also ditched the u-bolt clamp and got a stainless band clamp instead, fits a lot better.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 12:20 PM
  #27  
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yea, it looks like its hitting the up pipe and maybe the tranny line..I need to get a band clamp aswell. It just sucks that my buddy welded my dp together.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #28  
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so does the band clamp hold the two pieces of the dp together? and why is it better than the u-bolt clamp, more surface area to hold it together?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 03:16 PM
  #29  
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just flatter, doesn't stick out as much... my downpipe was rubbing on my tranny line for a while
 
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #30  
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I just put some heat wrap on mine where its close to the tranny and noticed the bulky u bolt clamp is against my floor and has worn a one inch square hole in it. I think I might have one of the other clamps, gotta look and see.
 
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