1000$ cheap for a scrap engine!?! where the fxxx do you buy engines from? cause it's the wrong place. what the hell else are you interested in? i wanna know how to make it rich in the sell scrap to suckers world. p.s a pumped up 390 would be properly built and mild mannered, just cause they were mostly reg. duty engines doesn't mean squat. they may have been cheaper off the lot but they're mostly the same parts as all fe's are. a stock 428 isn't as properly built and mild mannered as what your describing either, it's stock

 

also i had a stock spec 68 460 in an 85 f150 4x4 that had 10.5 to 1 compression and it ran on pump gas as a daily driver

 

Actually, $1000 for a good 428 is pretty cheap, there aren't many left and many were original to collectible vehicles, even the non-CJ ones. I sold one yesterday out of my '66 Country Squire to a guy that's restoring a '66 7-Litre Galaxie, and mine is date-coded right for his car, for $2,000, and we both agreed I was giving him a deal, as it's completely original and unmolested with all the little original pieces, tags, etc., and it actually runs real sweet. 428 cores are worth considerably more than 460 stuff, the 460's are still cheap power, but putting an original 428 in a pickup these days is a waste of a collectible engine (and potential money) when a 445 or such can be built so cheaply and easily from a lowly 360 or 390, and will also hand the 428 it's lunch. If you can get a good 428 for $1000, grab it on general principle, a good bare block can bring that, and if it happens to be a '67 block with the right date codes, it can be golden

 

I can get a '66 or a '68,no '67. What's so special about that year?

 

A late '66 or early '67 date code works for a '67 Shelby GT500

 

Well,I have decided against the project,need to get my falcon going before taking on other things. Besides,my girl bought me some heads for my truck that have been sitting for a couple of years,spending that kind of money for a back burner project may cause me not to get lucky anymore

 

Then explain why the 352 that had 59K original miles could not pull my 7,200 pound 67 camper with a 24' boat up my property without the army Jeep towing? Then I switched to a 390 that made a rather large difference I could just make it up the grade in granny gear at 5,000 rpms, less it would fall on its face and need the Jeep pull. Then I was offered a 428 block located by a new friend plus he gave me a free 428 crank and heads. With it set up for the campers load and boat, from carb to exhaust all matched for the duty it had to work at. This with a cam a total matching engine build all parts working together. Now I can pull the same camper with boat even with 150 gallons gas in the boat up my steep incline up to the property with ease down to 2,900 rpm's. Yup I learned from a new Ford truck friend last year that has built many big block fords for years. He supplied many engine parts for free plus helped build my engine. The trade off he can use my 82 acre lake on my property for his lifetime as well his family to fish. I'm not drag racing this truck and camper so the 428CJ, 428SCJ or your "3x2 390, the 401 horsepower" engine are totally useless pulling this heavy camper and boat. I go over many passes to 10K feet I was told a mildly built 410 or 428 set up for torque will move my truck in the mountains not some high strung pumped up high rpm racing motor. Call me stupid with my replies the results show big time by my engine builder. It appears he is not stupid either. Big deal a 750 HP motor can't move my truck with camper and boat, talking a little Forumla 1 racing motor 1/4 the size of the motors you speak of and almost twice the horsepower but at 17,000 rpms. What kind of torque is your 3 x 2 putting out at 10K feet at 2,500 rpms pulling a grade with a loaded full camper plus a loaded 24 foot pleasure boat with 150 gallons of fuel on board? I will stick with my engine builders parts and building my motor thank you instead of some racer it sounds like you are. This is not some light weight Cobra kit car I am pulling around sorry sir. Will I get points against me for my reply now? Have a nice weekend. Tom.

 

Well How about a 68 428 CJ block

Bore - 4.160/ 4.170"
Block squared and zero decked
CJ Crank 10/10
Scat H beam rods
Probe SRS Series forged flat tops -4cc valve relief
plasma Moly rings
Block Oil mods done
Cross bolted with Pro-Grams mains
Rollmaster timing set.
Erson Roller cam .633"/.651" 244*/248* on a 112 CL, Run as a solid flat tappet.
KC Edheads at stage II
Port matched Tunnel Wedge 2 X 4
2 holley 750cfm carbs w/o choke tower and horns
2 1/8" custom headers

Thats the plan on the new build...Subject to change without notice !!

 

Maybe i'm a little dizzy from that rant,but isn't it the point that a 428 will out perform a built 390,and a 428 cj will out perform a standard 428? What's the pissing contest about???

 

Then these numbers posted by TEX comparing the TQ numbers of a 3x2 390 with a 410 below is all bunk then? Then add the other replies by TEX, seems TEX has numbers and had been around the Ford FE engines for a long time. What a great forum, thanks FTE member for the below reply for real numbers not "I have a 2x3 390" it is fast. It seems you have a long FE racing history also with numbers not what you want others to believe is truth. I shall add this thread reply to my favorites. Cheers. Tom.

This chart is posted on this forum, Torque and HP numbers of a hot 352 or a standard 428 sure make the mighty 3x2 390 you talk about as a lesser motor in Torque with little difference in HP numbers. That slightly warmed over 428 sure looks better than that 3 x 2 390 pulling my camper and boat all the more I read and learn.

FE Series Engine Specification Chart

Another person called TEX has some good numbers also;
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/gal...-a-7.html]What to do with the bottom end of my 390... - Page 7 - FordMuscle.com Forums

 

Now it is becoming very clear, you think because some one posted it on the INTERNET it must be true, because no one is ever wrong or lies on the INTERNET. That is except you of course. You are so full of pure BS that I think I will ignore your sorry *** from here on out. Those who profess to know everything never do. And your handle sure discribes you to a tee.

 

Ouch! I must of hit a sesitive nerve of your manlyhood. Printouts like posted above on engine specs I believe in not some hear say unless you have a engine dyno and prove the above numbers are wrong.
So be it go run and hide or ask for a moderator for help. Real numbers not what you did 10 to 50 years ago does not make it with me. Sorry if I broke your bubble or it has been popped. This is a family forum the word "AZZ" is a spanking by a moderators shame on you, you should have points against you, hey Mr. Moderator where are you now? Cheers. Tom.

 

WOW! Mr.RabidRuss, this sounds like a real engine build not a "I had one of these and it was fast" a fairy tail sounding dream motor. This sounds like you have built a engine or two in your time? I bet you also have broken a motor before also, many with going over the 8,000 rpm range going to the store for a pack of smokes or a rolling 6 pack? I heard that 8,000 rpm's is what a Big FE motor can turn, I want one but I think NASA is out of money and will not machine the parts for me free. My little 83 head of cattle patch can not support the money it would cost to have a 8,000 rpm motor to pull my camper and family boat on vacation to the mountains. I must aim lower in the rpm range. Mr. RabidRuss, what would a build like you posted cost? I would like my heavy camper and boat to pull mountain passes like a empty 67 F250 that I have. She is an odd model but is all iron and mine. What would you install as a motor to pull my heavy load without running it in the 8,000 rpm range? This makes 7,000 rpm Honda motors look like old Hit & Miss era engines.
Who do you know that has a brain and connection on these old engines for performance parts number to increase my pulling power to make my 67 a proud boat puller? Cheers, Tom.

 

Ya know,as i read through some of the posts that Russ has left in threads I've participated in over the years,I realize that he has been very knowledgeable and helpful. Unfortunately,I see one recent post expressing disgust at this site,which I am starting to agree with. We come here to talk and get information about our trucks and even sometimes cars,in a friendly manner,not to be confused with being mouthy, condescending a holes to each other. If I really want hard nosed number based info,I'll go to my builder for it. If I want opinion on something, I come here. Remember, opinions are like a**holes,-everyone has one,and some are bigger than others.

 

Well CowTurd, I have built a few motors in my time, but not as many as some! and a few more than others..But I'am far from knowing it all as I have seen some claim...you NEVER know to much and I'am still learning after 40 years of Hot Rodding... The build I posted above will be about a $10K motor when all is said and done..and thats pretty cheap for a pretty stout FE motor, But I have some good friends that have helped me out over the years with some of those hard to find parts in my neck of the woods.. My Old 70 Ford P-Cup has been pulled out of service for a few years now to go thru a Resto Mod build...and it wont be pulling a Camper or a boat..I own another Brand X Goat for that..But this has been a long time in the making..As I have put my F250 on a major diet over the years , But still retaining all the steel body parts except for the Glass roll pan to delete the step bumper and a glass hood, But hopefully God willing and the river doest rise..It'll be done by my 60th B-Day...By the way...Not any of the FE's I have run accross have ever seen 8,000 RPM...Not saying there not out there..Just not running to the store for a case of Brew !! This one should see 6800 to 7000 rpm's...On occation..

As far as you building a stump puller...You need to mention what it is that you have now ? the major thing is to have a good set of heads up top to get it to breath, of course an intake that will let the heads breath also..as much CR as you can safely run on the pump swill in your area...and a Big **** Crank !