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When the brake fluid goes down in the line and slave cylinder, it and the air trade places.
So you just need to refill the master cylinder after your drive.
Back the first time I changed a slave cylinder, I drove myself nuts trying to bleed all the air out.
I had enough pedal I could stop in gear, but I had to turn the engine off to put it in gear.
After I was almost out of brake fluid, I was mad, still about 1/2 the pedal I should have had.
Next day I drove to work, by the time I got there, full pedal.
That was the last time I even cracked a bleeder screw on a slave cylinder.
i have a 1984 f150 and ive tried everything to bleed the clutch does anybody know the easiest and simplist way. i need help bad. the master cylinder and slave cylinder seem to be fine ive change the orings on the line,hard to seal in the cold. i have some pedel,not enough to put in gear when running or to stop it. i have tried driving it,didnt work. do slave cylinders get weak without leaking or master cylinders? and is there a specific way to put the rubber diaphram under the master cylinder cap in
i have a 1984 f150 and ive tried everything to bleed the clutch does anybody know the easiest and simplist way. i need help bad. the master cylinder and slave cylinder seem to be fine ive change the orings on the line,hard to seal in the cold. i have some pedel,not enough to put in gear when running or to stop it. i have tried driving it,didnt work. do slave cylinders get weak without leaking or master cylinders? and is there a specific way to put the rubber diaphram under the master cylinder cap in
The simplest way was listed in this thread-drive it. If it didn't work, keep driving it, it will work if you have fluid in the system.
To get it in gear with a clutch that only partially works, push in on the clutch and gently force it into 4th or 5th gear. Once in gear very quickly work your way down through the gears till you get to 2nd or reverse, whichever one you need to get started. When working your way down, almost slam the lever from gear to gear, so as not to give the tranny a chance to start spinning.
If the clutch doesn't work at all, then to drive it get the engine warmed up really good, turn it off, put it in gear, and then crank it over while in gear, then shift through the gears while on the move.
I upgraded to a newer 92-95 slave cylinder for my 84 setup and can not get it into gear, here I'm thinking it's the slave, my pedal is mushy and the clutch fork moves, this is driving me crazy. The old slave has studs the 92-95 bolts through. I need this truck to move.
If the slave is not leaking it is probably fine. To bleed a clutch you have to press it many times(at least 100), hold it on the ground for a couple seconds each time too. Keep checking fluid. When it is drivable, then drive it and all the air will be out in 5 minutes.
I always hear everybody whining about how hard it is to bleed these, I put my system in completely dry when I swapped tranny's. I had it bled within a hour. It is work, keep pressing the dang pedal and vibration from idling the engine in neutral helps a lot to. You must understand it is not like bleeding brakes, alot harder.
hi guys sorry its been a long time since it has been looked at but i got me a 90 f250 with a 7.3 and a five speed and the clutch is weak cause it does go into gear hard and i have to kill the motor to get it into reverse. i was just clarifying, so i gotta pump it around a 100 times and drive it? what do i do
thanks and sorry if its been a while
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