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I'm about to do an egr delete and while I got the truck down I thought I would replace the oil cooler. The egr delete kit states that the kit can be installed with removing the intake. My question is can the oil cooler be removed without removing the intake. Also, should I purchase the egr delete or the bypass. And what are the pros and cons of each kit.
intake must be removed to replace oil cooler. make sure to clean around the cooler well before removing it. there is a screen that gose in the sump under the cooler, there is an aftermarket one with a steel screen.. maybe someone can post a link to it.. I dont remeber how has them.
if you are in a state were emmsison testing is not done a delete is a better way to go.
if they do inspections then a bypass is required.
Thanks Cheezit, seems like you are always first to answer my questions thanks. I live in a county in Georgia where they don't check emissions. So I guess the delete is the way to go. I purchased an oil cooler kit. Is this kit diffcult to do.
"is it diuffcult to do"
my most favorite question.........
I can do them very easly, I have never meet you in person nor have I ever seen you work on a car I have no way to judge your abilities so I can not attest to what you may or may not find easy or diffcult.
just read that as my disclaimer. add see the humor its ment as.
but really not to bad, remove trubo charger, remove intake remove and seperate oilcooler install new cooler element with new o-rings. reassemble engine in reverse fashion.
customer pay labor would be $800-1000 give or take
10 to 14 hours customer pay depending on diag needs, truck setup (pto, ambulance etc.)
it should take you a weekend. I can have one done by luch if I get after it.
I noticed your truck is stock. Have you done the EGR delete? I was wondering if a tech thought it was necessary. I have blocked mine but haven't done the full delete.
i am planning a full delete as well. How big of a job is it (hrs for an avg mechanic) and where is the best place to buy a delete kit from? How much do they run?
I just ordered my kit from river city diesel. I plan on doing the oil cooler, turbo upgrade and egr delete all at once. I just ordered a stock 03 turbo machined out for a larger compressor wheel. Not sure what I will end up with but the turbo guy said it would be the same as the gt3788va after that.
BTDT and lost the T shirt in the deal. If you are in there doing any EGR system upgrades or deletes, replace the oil cooler. $220 to buy on Ebay and my dealer matched it. I tried the backflush route and ended up with a major oil cooler failure soon after. Add a coolant filter while you are there. No sense ruining another oil cooler.
Well, I guess I am in the right place to ask questions pertaining to this much loved topic
Ok - I have the delete kit in-hand (from Sinister Diesel) CHECK, the Oil Cooler Rebuild Kit CHECK, the updated stainless steel Oil Cooler sump screen CHECK, intake gaskets CHECK, and a turbo install/re-install kit (just for good measure) bolts and o-rings CHECK.
Now, is there a good repair manual out there that can guide me through the process so that I know what to torque everything back to?
Also, is there anything in particular that I need to pay special attention to so that I do not make an expensive mistake? I have heard that the injector harnesses must be treated with care along with the cooling fan wiring harness. Anything else?
Finally, has anyone done all of the above and have pics posted?
Your in for some fun. There probably is a manual somewhere maybe but it's not gonna tell ya how much your gonna be cussing ford and why they made the engine compartment so tight.
Key thing is take your time and when you get fustrated just walk away for a bit. The injector harnesses are pretty easy it's just trying to get the whole wiring harness out of the way that sucks. Get ya some electrical tape and wrap the wiring harness up with it. Gives ya a little more protection from chaffing and also looks pretty when your done. (about three rolls of tape). Get some pb blast and spray the turbo pedestal bolts down and the uppipe bolts(if your replacing the uppipe) so it'll be easier to loosen em up. The turbo pedestal bolts are pretty tuff, back one to say the least, but with some extensions and swivels you can get it. When you get the intake off take some simple green, making sure you have all the sensors out of it, and soak it down then take it to the car wash and blast away. There's alot of crap in there usually and I found that to be the easiest way to get it all out. It's a good weekend job for the backyard mechanic so just take your time. Good luck!