C-6 or AOD
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,198
Likes: 4,807
From: Burbank, WA
The "JY" number is most likely the partial VIN from the donor vehicle. The other numbers are engineering numbers from the parts they are cast on, which wouldn't necessarily id the trans itself, if those parts could be used on other applications.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 53
Likes: 7
From: Lincoln, CA
Brian
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 476
Likes: 1
From: Greatest state on earth
The E9DP-7006-AA is good. Its the correct transmission housing you want.
When you go for a rebuild, keep in mind that the AODE internals are the prefered parts to make for a good transmission. So if any clutch baskets or shafts need to be replaced, keep your eyes open for a junk AODE for a donor. They an be had just as cheap.
When you go for a rebuild, keep in mind that the AODE internals are the prefered parts to make for a good transmission. So if any clutch baskets or shafts need to be replaced, keep your eyes open for a junk AODE for a donor. They an be had just as cheap.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
Brian
I know you are going the AOD route, but FWIW, I have two 351W powered trucks, one an 88 F150 with a C6.
The other, an 83 F250 with the factory AOD - this truck was originally 302 powered.
I bought the F250 half-expecting the trans to let go anytime (163,500 miles then), but with a newly rebuilt engine, no rust, & one family since 1987, I thought it was worth it.
Well, I had the AOD serviced (it had never been rebuilt), & a shift kit fitted & pretty much waited for it to die - that was nearly two years ago & it's still going strong.
I'm reasonably gentle on it, & I think the previous owner was too, but 27 years in a heavier truck & a lot of those behind a 351 (302 was as big as the factory fitted them with), shows that they could give good service.
The F250 is carbed & gives better mileage than the fuel-injected F150, but not the same performance - a lot heavier though.
Personally I prefer manual transmissions & will replace the AOD with one when it finally does fail but for daily driving or lighter work, my experience has been that the AOD is fine. The line pressure (TV adjustment) is critical though.
I think the C6 is still king for heavy work - you just have to feed it though
I know you are going the AOD route, but FWIW, I have two 351W powered trucks, one an 88 F150 with a C6.
The other, an 83 F250 with the factory AOD - this truck was originally 302 powered.
I bought the F250 half-expecting the trans to let go anytime (163,500 miles then), but with a newly rebuilt engine, no rust, & one family since 1987, I thought it was worth it.
Well, I had the AOD serviced (it had never been rebuilt), & a shift kit fitted & pretty much waited for it to die - that was nearly two years ago & it's still going strong.
I'm reasonably gentle on it, & I think the previous owner was too, but 27 years in a heavier truck & a lot of those behind a 351 (302 was as big as the factory fitted them with), shows that they could give good service.
The F250 is carbed & gives better mileage than the fuel-injected F150, but not the same performance - a lot heavier though.
Personally I prefer manual transmissions & will replace the AOD with one when it finally does fail but for daily driving or lighter work, my experience has been that the AOD is fine. The line pressure (TV adjustment) is critical though.
I think the C6 is still king for heavy work - you just have to feed it though
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
With a C6 (and it's 1:1 3rd gear ratio) you will need 33 inch back tires and a 9" gear ratio of 2.80 to cruise at 65 comfortably - 2350 rpm.
That is the set up I currently have (except its a 9 3/8 rear).
The C6 is very large and heavy (installation and suspension considerations) - but it's bullet proof.
You will have slightly less reliability but substantially more driving options with the AOD.
That is the set up I currently have (except its a 9 3/8 rear).
The C6 is very large and heavy (installation and suspension considerations) - but it's bullet proof.
You will have slightly less reliability but substantially more driving options with the AOD.
What's the formula that you use to calculate RPM's at MPH? I'm thinking of putting taller gears in mine, and I'd like to run a few different scenarios?
-DV
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,198
Likes: 4,807
From: Burbank, WA
This should work for you;
mph x gear ratio . divided by . tire diameter x 3 = rpm's (x1000)
example;
60 mph x 3.25 gears / 29" tires x 3 = 195/87 = 2241
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
At the top of the page, click on the 'Articles/Specs' drop menu, then on Automotive Calculators.
There is a MPH/RPM calculator there with tire size & axle ratio options on it.
There is a MPH/RPM calculator there with tire size & axle ratio options on it.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
At the top of the page, click on the 'Articles/Specs' drop menu, then on Automotive Calculators.
There is a MPH/RPM calculator there with tire size & gear ratio options on it.
For the gear ratio entry on it, multiply your axle ratio x your gear ratio - eg if you have a 3rd gear ratio of 1.4 & a 3.54 axle, the gear ratio entry on the calculator (for 3rd gear) will be 4.956.
A 1:1 4th gear would just be 3.54
There is a MPH/RPM calculator there with tire size & gear ratio options on it.
For the gear ratio entry on it, multiply your axle ratio x your gear ratio - eg if you have a 3rd gear ratio of 1.4 & a 3.54 axle, the gear ratio entry on the calculator (for 3rd gear) will be 4.956.
A 1:1 4th gear would just be 3.54
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
It does in fact look like 2.80 gears are what I need.
-DV
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,198
Likes: 4,807
From: Burbank, WA
Hey now, careful with that name callin'. ;-)
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by 52 Merc
This should work for you;
mph x gear ratio . divided by . tire diameter x 3 = rpm's (x1000)
example;
60 mph x 3.25 gears / 29" tires x 3 = 195/87 = 2241
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by 52 Merc
This should work for you;
mph x gear ratio . divided by . tire diameter x 3 = rpm's (x1000)
example;
60 mph x 3.25 gears / 29" tires x 3 = 195/87 = 2241
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
Thanks Julie! Since my tire size is fixed at 27", and I want to use 65MPH for my "what if" scenarios, all I have to do is multiply the gear ration by 800 to give the the RPM's at 65MPH. It doesn't get much simpler than that...
It does in fact look like 2.80 gears are what I need.
-DV
It does in fact look like 2.80 gears are what I need.
-DV
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
OK Eric it's really me this time - poor Merc!
Don't be insulted Merc, we had a few PMs in there and he was just paraphrasing!
That's a great combination. You can actually fine tune it with tire size - up an inch down an inch. Here's an RPM calculator that is very accurate as long as you use tire roll out instead of diameter.
Gear Ratio Calculator
Glad that worked out for you.
Don't be insulted Merc, we had a few PMs in there and he was just paraphrasing!
That's a great combination. You can actually fine tune it with tire size - up an inch down an inch. Here's an RPM calculator that is very accurate as long as you use tire roll out instead of diameter.
Gear Ratio Calculator
Glad that worked out for you.
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