I took the #1 plug wire off the coil and started the truck. I tested with a test light and i get nothing, even when the truck is reved up. I did the asme with the #5 plug wire and I get spark. I am getting notheng from #1 on the CP. So what does that mean? I am getting no where. Nobody can answer if i have and ICM or if it is in the PCM?

 

bad coil pack perhaps...

 

You've been busy on this one & good trouble shooting efforts.

Have you posted All of the trouble code Numbers, or is P0301 all you have???

I've read through the three pages of this thread & see that you've tested the coilpack primary & secondary coils resistance (but I'm not clear about the readings you posted, the coilpack primary resistance isn't specified, but should be less than 5 ohms & the secondary resistance should be between 13K-15K ohms).

You've pulled the coilpack & had it bench tested at AZ & they say it's ok, repalced the plugs & wires & tested the #1 plug wire with a "test light" & you say #1 still shows no spark.

I know you've replaced the plug wires, but I've seen bad parts right out of the box & maybe Murphey's Law is messing with you, so have you done an end to end resistance check on the #1 plug wire???? It should be about 2000 ohms/inch of length, 30K ohms max.

On the #1 plug wire spark test, I'm not sure what "test light" means. Is it an inductive type timing light???
In our waste spark ignition system, the coilpack pairs cylinder #1 & #5 to fire together (when #1 plug is fired on it's power stroke, #5 plug is fired on it's exhaust stroke) (waste spark), so, with an inductive type timing light, does plug wire #5 show it has spark????

Did AZ just do a primary & secondary resistance check on the coil pack, or did they also do an operational output high voltage bench test on the coilpack????
If they did the high voltage output check, was the coil packs bottom side placed on a ground plane, like it is when in place on the engine????
If not, have you inspected the bottom side of the coilpack for cracks, which are a somewhat common problem. Cracks there could cause the output spark to leak off to ground & not be strong enough to fire the spark plug, or trigger a timing light.

If you find a crack, you could try a test, by raising the coilpack & insulating the coilpacks bottom surface with a good insulator, like a piece of thick plastic, or several layers of electrical tape, or other handy good quality, thick insulating material, to get it up off the manafold, then see if #1 plug then has spark.
If it does, you'll know what the problem is.

More trouble shooting thoughts for condideration, let us know what you find.

 

Well guys after all that, I got it fixed. I talked to a buddy of mine that works on cars on the side. Getting a hold of him was a challange but it paid off. He works at a part store part time so he was able to snag a coil pack to see if that was the problem and if it wasnt I wouldnt have to pay for it. And that was the problem.

Never again will I trust a bench test at a part store like I did this time. All that work after they told me my CP was good and it wasnt.

So the CP my buddy borrowed from his store was 45 buck more than the one at autozone so he took that one back to his store and I went back to autozone to get the cheeper one. Now it takes me about an hour and a half to realize the AZ CP is wired backwards of the origional part.

So FYI, your after market CP may require you to hook up your spark plug wires in reverse order from origional. Its running like a champ now Finally!

Thanks for all your help on here guys. I couldnt have done it without all of your help!

 

Good find, fix, feedback & to hear you are "on the road again"!!!!