Hey all....seems like a while since I posted here, I've had my 2000 XLT 4x4 put up for the winter due to rust issues !

Ever since I put the K&N Intake on my 7.3 I have noticed what I believe to be compressor surge. I've looked around the forum here and I'm pretty sure that's what it is. Now that I have that figured out, I want to get this problem fixed before I start towing my 10,000 lb 5th-wheel. Whenever I tow it and get above 55mph, I notice the flutter sound, lack of power, and crappy mileage.

Since I have a couple months yet before taking my truck out of mothballs, I want to get some input from you all on what I need to do to correct this problem. I am leaning towards a ported compressor housing. I am on a limited budget and would like to keep it under $650.00 installed and I don't plan to install it myself, I got a buddy that wrenches diesels (cheap, but not free... LoL) My other option is a Wicked Wheel. I have been reading up on these in the forum and I remain undecided.

I'm pretty sure this topic has been beat to death here in the forum, but I just want to make sure I'm putting my hard earned $ in the right place.

Thanks guys !

Scott

 

Keep an eye on the intake tube. There's been many stories about dusted turbos or engines when the K&N is put in front of the turbo. The CAI does seem to do better than the drop in, but in addition to flowing more air, they also flow more dirt.

Either option should fix the surge and will also give you a louder turbo whistle. The housing can be installed without removing the turbo so it's a simple matter of removing a few bolts to get the old one off and then bolt on the new housing.

You can change to a wicked wheel without pulling the turbo, but most recommend pulling the turbo to do the swap. Labor wise the housing will be much cheaper and easier for your buddy to install.

 

I think I will indeed go with the compressor housing. Now for the next step....can anyone give me some ideas which one to go with ? I plan to keep my Superduty till the body the engine gives out or the body falls off...whichever comes first. She's got about 110K on her...so probably til the body falls off lol

Thanks !

Scott

 

What exactly are the symptoms of a "dusted turbo" ? Inside the the intake tube it seems like the walls are coated with some light, greasy substance...not at all thick, but enough to get your hands dirty...

I decided to replace the housing to fix the turbo-flutter...if the turbo is indeed "dusted" what else am I looking at as for as $ for parts & Repairs ?

Thanks

Scott

 

An housing like the ATS is pretty popular Ported Shroud Compressor Housing

It's normal to have an oily vapor inside the intake tube if you haven't done the CCV mod. What you're worried about is any dirt that's in that oil. Click here and then click on the 7.3L Turbocharger guide. It has some pictures of what you're looking for. You will need to remove the intake tube going back to the turbo and inspect the compressor wheel. If the edges of the wheel are sharp and crisp, things are good. If the edges look rounded off or like they've been sand blasted, that's bad. Also grab the very center of the wheel (all of this is done with the engine OFF by the way), gently wiggle the wheel around. There should be some slight left to right or up and down wiggle, but the blades should not contact the housing. There should be no noticeable in and out movement of the shaft whatsoever.

If the turbo is dusted, you should plan on having it rebuilt at the same time you get the housing done. Dennis at the link I gave you above also sells a rebuild kit if your buddy doesn't have another source. Depending on the severity of the dusting, a compression check might be in order. If you post pictures of what you're wheel looks like, we can all comment on it.

Of course, if you've got signs of dusting, your first step should be to change to a different filter or fix whatever is causing the dirt ingestion.

 

I took the cold air intake tube off and got my hands on the impellor... Doesn't seem to be hitting anything (no excessive play that I can tell) and the vanes seem sharp...2 of them have a super tiny nick in them...You can only see it if you get your face right up to it with a flashlight...

Its really difficult to work on it since the front bumper is up to the workbench and the side has my Mustang crammed next to it...

I took a couple pics...I have to try and post them

 

Here's the turbo ...



The tube looks a bit dirty...

 

If the blades seem sharp, then that's good. No in and out movement on the shaft, then that's good. I'm not trying to tell you that you have to dump the K&N. Just that you need to be aware of what to watch for. Sounds like you're in good shape right now. Just keep an eye on the intake tube from time to time and address the issue if you start seeing signs of dirt.

Now I've got another question for you because I don't remember the K&N tube. Does it go from the filter all the way back to the turbo, or does it go from the filter back to the bracket over the valve cover and keep the factory hose between the valve cover bracket and the turbo?

 

Sorry...the pics didn't come out that great. Its really tough to get in there to take a pic...

And the K&N tube only goes to the bracket. I am DEFINITELY ditching the K&N filter...I hear there's a Wix filter that will replace the K&N cone filter ?

 

Wow, you might want to size down your pics next time. Just looked at the pics. The wheel in pic #1 looks fine. The tube in pic #2 scares me. That looks like dirt on the inside of that tube clinging to the walls with the oil vapor that's in there.

In my opinion it's time you switch to a different brand filter. Email those pics to your mechanic buddy and see what he says. I've got a 6637 filter on my truck and my wife has an AFE stage II filter on hers. Both our intake tubes are spotless. Look for the 99-03 7.3 diesel section here at FTE and ask those guys what they think of K&N. I'm sure you'll hear from a few that have had to buy new motors because of dusting.

Edit: The wix filter is the 6637. It's a wix part number 546637. A cheap place to get them is from fleetfilter.com Just enter 46637 in their search box. It should bolt on to your existing K&N tube after you clean it up. The ATS housing will come with a new tube that goes from the turbo to the middle bracket.

 

The pic actually looks much worse than seeing it with the naked eye...it turned out kinda grainy..but still disconcerting nonetheless. I just put this intake on about 8000 miles ago...Thanks for the part # for the Wix...I'll order one up.

I decided that I'll go with the compressor housing...Seems like its a better deal financially in the long run. Is there a big difference in brands ? Looks like a lot of people are digging the ATS...I look forward to seeing the difference...Now all I gotta do is wait for the warm season so I can get my 250 out on the road !

 

Not much difference on brands. ATS is just readily available. If you find a different one, it won't hurt to go that route.

 

I know I'm probably beating this thread to death, but I love my truck and plan on keeping it til the body falls off.

The ATS housing has a 4" intake ? What is the big differences compared to the 3" ? Does it improve mileage ? What kind of power increase, if any, can I expect ? Will it spool faster ? Am I leaving out any questions ? LoL

Thanks !

Scott

 

...also...

It was pretty nice out the last couple days so I put my intake system back together and had it on the road...When I put everything back together, I tightened up all of the intercooler ductwork a few turns and noticed that the compressor surge has diminished by at least 75%... Any explanations for this ?

Thanks again !

Scott

 

You won't get better MPG's, faster spooling, increased horsepower, or whiter teeth from the housing. The larger intake is due to a bleed ring which is how it helps with your surge.

What do you mean the surge has diminished? Surge either happens or it doesn't. Are you saying it happens less frequently now, or there's a sound that you're referring to that is no longer as noisy? Have you got a boost gauge? How does it act when the noise occurs?