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Here's what we are working on :
91 F250 4.9 4wd 5spd ZF , 3.55's
Getting the occasional check engine light , codes are 111 and 181 with the KOEO test. Truck runs great cold start or hot. This started after an hour drive on the highway several days ago , happened when I pulled off the exit ramp just about the time I got to the light. Now doing the same thing in city driving when I get to a traffic light, all vacuum lines are new , including the juice can , can't find any obvious problems , thinking I throw a exhaust sensor at it. Any idea's or follow the plan and go with new sensor ?
Today I replaced the hego , looked to be the original anyway. Still have the now and then check light , only code present is 181. My fuel pressure gauge has apparently disappeared , so tomorrow I will get another gauge and a FPR while I am at the parts house. Looked high and low for a vacuum leak , can't find anything , and I have sprayed every possible place with cleaner to see if the engine speeds up and it does not. all vacuum lines are new , including the juice can. The truck runs great hot or cold , load or no load , this one has me going in circles. Any ideas ??
I have now replaced the FPR and the ECT , checked fuel pressure from both tanks , all is within spec , still getting that darn ck lite. My next move is to pull the throttle body and IAC , clean them up and replace the gaskets. Still have yet to find any vacuum leaks , and the gauge shows 21" at idle. Only other idea I have is maybe the canister purge solenoid is stuck open ?? Going to check that tomorrow morning. Anyone ever have the CANP solenoid go bad ??
21 psi is not enough pressure..On 92 4.9liter pressure should be 50 to 60 engine not running...45 to 60 engine running with FPR Vacuum hose connected..The pressure should increase 5 to 10 psi with engine on and Vacuum hose diconnected..I am suprised it is running well or is it?
21 psi is not enough pressure..On 92 4.9liter pressure should be 50 to 60 engine not running...45 to 60 engine running with FPR Vacuum hose connected..The pressure should increase 5 to 10 psi with engine on and Vacuum hose diconnected..I am suprised it is running well or is it?
vacuum was 21" ,fuel pressure was over 55 either pump , sorry for the confusion !
I cant picture that setup..Should be Speed Density..Check the Egr system,cracked egr pipe,egr seating all the way ect..Connect fuel pressure gauge and verify it can hold good pressure--Turn key on and off a couple times without starting engine does it hold for at least 60 seconds?..Also check specs on Map/Baro Sensor if equiped..Check voltage to battery ground at any two injectors,make sure they are the same...
All egr related componets are new/last fall. Just replaced the MAP sensor a couple of weeks ago. Complete tune up last fall , all motorcraft stuff , including the pcv valve. Has to be a vacuum leak somewhere , the brake booster vacuum line and the pcv line are the only 2 remaining original lines. going to pull them in the morning and check them out. Could it be ??? naw , I never get that lucky !! Lol ! Thanks for the input ! Going to check the CANP solenoid also tomorrow
The CANP solenoid tested good , checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks , snugged any bolt I could find intake related , didn't help , then I got to wondering if maybe the IAC might be sticking sometimes , well I put a new one on today , haven't seen a check light since , but I have only driven it back and forth to work , no more than a 50 mile round trip.
The throttle body base gasket. I finally had a day off and decent weather outside , so I pulled the throttle body to clean it up. Upon removal I discovered the gasket had disintegrated from the inside. That explains why it didn't show up on my spray test when kooking for vacuum leaks. Cleaned up the TB and replaced the gasket , smooth as silk now and NO ck engine lights. Hope this may help other I6 owners out there. Oh yeah , 1.79 for the gasket and about a half hour job. EASY FIX !