Well biting of a bit have been working on cars and such for a while but not many with all these plugs and hoses .
Hope I can put it all back from where it came LOL

Anyhow this is an engine replacement on my 1990 F250HD going to upgrade to a roller block but that's about it for now.

First is what we start with


Then I started tearing things down bagging all the bolts and nuts and labeling them heres what I ended up with so far.





Man that's a lot of stuff to remember for an old guy



Someone glopped a bunch of silicone on top of the timing cover one can wonder why that is may mean I have to replace the cover time will tell.




Question here do these pipes have to be removed to pull the motor?



Is it worth it to rebuild them my self or replace time is the factor so may just replace.




Ok question time putting a 94 or above roller block in it's place the starter and flex plate will be new as the old one are showing there age and starter is kicking out is the roller and non roller the same flex plate.

Will get a distributor gear for the roller cam got that what about the dipstick is that an issue to think about?

Love pics as we all do so there ya go.

 

A 5.8 & automatic flex plate are the same between roller/non-roller blocks.

Now would be a great time to delete the AIR injection & plug the heads, so yes take the plumbing back there out. There may be a shield across the top bell housing bolts that is great for cutting fingers. You'll need to leave the 2 solenoids that run the AIR hooked up.

Clean the injectors yourself or have it done. There is a link in the thread below. Replacing them is pricey.

The dipstick should be the same.

I recently pulled & detailed mine:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-project.html

Bag & tag everything, draw diagrams, label with blue tape. Good Luck.

 

Digital cameras are a great tool too.......I take lots of pics when I'm in unfamiliar territory..........the ol' memory bank aint what she used to be........getting old sux......LOL

 

I will most definitely look up the air delete. I still have the cat and the stock exhaust I think but if can get rid of all that, I am all in.
She has drawn blood for the truck gods but so has every other project I have worked on LOL

 

Another thing I do not have an engine yet but was wondering which vehicles should I be looking for as far as good 351 candidates say with the better heads.

 

The factory heads are all the same as far as trucks go. A 94 may or may not have a roller cam. A 95+ will.

There are a lot of GT-40, GT-40P head swaps going on in the world. Google search within FTE should have some info.

 

Well have read enough on the GT 40P head to know IF I was to get headers they are few and far between so steer clear and find an engine above 95 got it. Thanks

Will do a little more searching.

 

Well the engine is out and well buddy and I were talking and think I can do a short rebuild she was not smoking at all so i decided to see where the knock was coming from.



And here we have the oilpan fixen to come off.



And a lower end



And the top end
Kinda dirty maybe a few miles.



What the bearing surfaces looked like not sure where the knocking is coming from.



On to writing ok well pulled all the mains and rod bearings and the worst of them were the mains. The rods all were close to the very end of the limit maybe a a hair over not sure what or how much can cause a knock but the crank had no fingernail hanging grooves or anything. The mains were out the ideal is 0015 or around that not looking at my manual but they were 003 or a little more. Can the mains knock thought they clunked more sorry for the terminology.

Anyhow the compression was great did not have enough time to acquire a standard bearing and check to see the clearances.

Another question how would you go about cleaning the engine as you see it to kinda freshen it up get the crap out the lifter valley and top of the heads?

Next time off the boat I will have the rod bearing and main bearing to check specs,if it needs to be turned down so be it but think a crank rebuild is going to give me some more time to find and rebuild a roller block.

 

I would just invest in some parts cleaner, and clean it up real good, If I remember right when we rebuilt the 351 in my brothers 90 f150 xlt I believe we covered it in oven cleaner and hit it with a pressure washer.

 

Well found out where the knock was coming from and as I said before the mains and rods checked out pretty close. So here is the culprit the piston pin was rattling and looks like the piston did not have much time left also yeah thats a crack LOL.



That being said the cylinder walls looked great and measured out just fine so will hone and rering with new stock piston and will turn the crank .010 under and run her.
Timing chain was way loose also.

 

If you are determined to rebuild this I'd suggest you send the shortblock to a machine shop to be hot tanked and all parts inspected and machines as necessary. Buy reman heads ready to go, or at least find out what that will cost vs having yours rebuilt, I suspect the remans will be cheaper. Then you can put it all back together and be confident it will be reliable, and I'd also suggest installing a new cam while you're at it, the Crane 444232 is a nice upgrade and is 100% compatible with your stock EFI system.
Its been a while since I have seen one of these motors with air to the manifolds, it never ceases to boggle the mind how many different systems Ford developed to simply help the cats heat up on cold starts. Yes.. that is the only reason for all the plumbing on and around this motor, once the motor reaches operating all this is bypassed. Isn't that wild? If you don't have sniffer tests to meet then all of this crap can go away/.. basically everything that is attached to the air pump, that tube across the back of the motor and those spiders hanging off the manifolds. I'd suggest replacing the manifolds with shorty headers but you could just plug the holes with pipe plugs too, and the holes in the back of the heads can be plugged with 5/8 x 1" coarse thread bolts with copper washers.

 

I appreciate the input Paul I will either have to buy new manifolds as both are cracked or shorty headers which I like better and have sourced the bolts for the heads. I am limited right now by the spousal unit but have another roller block I am going to rebuild a bit at a time so she does not complain about the money as much LOL I have researched and read many threads on the cam you recommend so that's on the short list.

And yeah getting rid of all the plumbing except the EGR.
I also have the tools and parts to rebuild my own heads well other than decking so some cost savings. just time on my part.

 

Well update I put the block in the machine shop it has been bored .030 over and 10 and 10 on crank have a short block waiting on me minus the cam.
Just ordered a Comp Cam 35-255-5 cam for the engine and will order headers next week going with Summit shorties because my exhaust is in great condition so do not want to go though the hassle of long tubes and having to take it to muffler shop to hook up.
Anyhow looking forward to being able to drive it and have it running.

 

Always a good feeling having a project come together!

 

Well we have a short block and heads done did not have much time to get anything done as wife had me on a tight leash for the honeydo list LOL.

Have the cam,lifters,pushrods also got the plugs for the back of the heads to do away with the emissions ports think they are 5/8s by 11 pitch.

Still need to order the dip stick tube.

Pics of nice clean block.



The valve spring retainers confused me was going to replace springs but the rotator threw me off so from what I gather 2 different size springs.



Nice pretty lifter valley.



Anyhow will be back home Sept 14th and will hopefully get some work done and maybe just maybe get her running again.