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SMOG PUMP

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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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SMOG PUMP

THE PICTRUE BELOW IS WHAT I HAVE. IS IT POSSIBLE TO JUST REMOVE THE PUMP AND GET A SHORTER BELT, OR IS THERE SOMETHING ELSE I HAVE TO DO. LIKE INSTALL SOME SORT OF NEW PULLEY WHERE THE PUMP IS BY THE WAY IT IS A 93 FORD F-250 WITH A 351W IN IT
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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You need an idler pulley with that setup due to the position of the tensioner. Is your air pump seized? If so take it apart and gut it and then put it back on as an idler.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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Thanks for using my picture

I did exactly what you were talking about. I tried many different length belts and it was a nightmare. It make then tensioner do almost nothing. I couldn't use my AC because the extra stain would cause the belt to fall off. This would also happen if I pegged the power steering.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 10:13 AM
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I can't remember,is that the same set up as a 302? I used a shorter belt to bypass my smog pump,and it has worked just fine,belt hasn't jumped off and is plenty tight. I know it will be different for a 351w,but I used a goodyear gatorback 4060915 for my 95 5.0.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by skyfox10
Thanks for using my picture

I did exactly what you were talking about. I tried many different length belts and it was a nightmare. It make then tensioner do almost nothing. I couldn't use my AC because the extra stain would cause the belt to fall off. This would also happen if I pegged the power steering.
lol i didnt have my truck here at work and saw you pic thanks
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
You need an idler pulley with that setup due to the position of the tensioner. Is your air pump seized? If so take it apart and gut it and then put it back on as an idler.
it was seized up a couple years ago so i took it apart and got it working and evey since then it is very nosiy. just tired of hearing it
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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With my 460 I just removed it and put a smaller belt on. I do not have all those tensioner pullies though. I just have an idler where the A/C pump would be. My crank pulley and alternator have a belt, just by-passed the smog pump. And lucky me, no tensioners to mess anything up lol.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cjben
I can't remember,is that the same set up as a 302? I used a shorter belt to bypass my smog pump,and it has worked just fine,belt hasn't jumped off and is plenty tight. I know it will be different for a 351w,but I used a goodyear gatorback 4060915 for my 95 5.0.
351 & 302 are the same, as shown on the sticker. Older trucks have then tensioner up where the idle is on these trucks, that works fine. I heard someone say that you could actaully move your tensioner up to where the idler is (so it would be like the older trucks), and then it would work fine.

Also, I did try a Gotorback, and it worked the best, I might have lost it once compared to regularly with the other belts. I'll have the check and see if I used the same part number.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jjohnson1179
lol i didnt have my truck here at work and saw you pic thanks
You very welcome.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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WHAT IS A GOTORBACK
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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its the back on an aligator
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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I know it's kind of a newb question, what is bypassing the smog pump good for?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by strokinout
I know it's kind of a newb question, what is bypassing the smog pump good for?
Nothing. One less thing to seize up, I suppose.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:42 AM
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I would just replace the smog pump, especially if you still have cats. There is not much if anything to be gained by removing it.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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I recently removed my "soon to lock up" air pump on my 5.8. While shopping for the plastic idlers (which had developed flat spots) I found that there were 2 different types available for the tensioner. 150s got plastic, 250s got metal which is what I bought.

Initially, I tested alternate routing the original belt. By going "over" the fixed idler, under the tensioner, then around the Alt, then back to the crank. This actually worked. However, the Alt would squeal for few seconds when first cranked and when put under heavy electrical load.


Since I didn't care for that, I took a length of 3/8ths-7/16ths heavy nylon rope, routing the rope under the tensioner first (after it comes off the AC compressor) completely by-passing the upper idler, then looping the Alt before returning to the crank.

I took the rope, hung it on a nail & stretched it out tight, then tacked another nail at the bottom of the loop. This gave me a length of 47-1/2 inside the loop which I doubled to give me a 95 inch starting point.

I used my locally owned parts house to source the belt. Took 3 trips, but finally wound up with a 96.08 inch belt that gave the best tension & no noise. After a couple hundred miles, I've had no problems.

This past weekend I did some work on a friends 93 Taurus. I found that the tensioner's idler has the same bearing diameter & depth and is ribbed & shouldered like the Alt pully. I plan on using this if I develop belt throwing issues.

Hope this helps someone.
 
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