I have a 1975 Ford F350 (F37YCX28135) I believe it is a 361 because it has a mirror image 105 according to Steve Christ Big Block Ford book. Well I bought thinking I got a good deal but as I was changing the fluids I noticed a milky radiator fluid. I flushed it out and took the radiator to a radiator shop and he said that I have a cracked head, blown head gasket or cracked blocked. Well right now I have the heads off and went to get estimates on a long block(2 grand) and a short block. Well the quote given to me was more than I am willing to invest. I will take the heads and have the machine shop magnaflux or something to them but my question to all how can I tell if my block is the problem without taking it out as I think I am getting over my head. There is no antifreeze in the oil and the radiator is the old style inlet at top and outlet at bottom. It has a 4 speed so there is not transmission cooling lines. The previous owner passed away a 2 years ago and I bought it from the widow, so I all information on this I will have to figure out on my own. We have a snow storm on the way so I have to get some firewood and havent had the time to examine the heads or block yet, I just want to know what am I looking for. Thank-you!

 

Well you could have the heads checked for flatness and a possible crack. The block you would have to pull, disassemble and have it checked aswell. Maybe a cracked cylinder wall...the only way to be sure, is to have it checked out I'm afraid. Bummer, good luck

 

Slip Ford Man Thanks for your response, Deep down I knew there was no easy way just hoping for something else such as waterpump, thermostat or hose. I will take my heads in next week. Once again Thanks!

 

Hmm! He may be a good radiator man but I'd have to question his ability to make a determination like that. I would have the heads magna fluxed right now, it's rather cheap. I would also have the heads checked for flatness too. A good machinist will be able to spot a gasket breach on the heads too so don't mess with the surfaces of the heads, let him see them as they came off the block. It's not uncommon for a block to crack but you have to either over heat it badly or freeze it. I'm betting on the head gasket only because it is soooo common. That being said, since there's no water in your oil it makes me wonder how you can get oil in your water. So I'm gonna say head gasket again. Or, and this ain't unheard of, someone put a little oil or some of that water pump lubricant in it and that's giving it the milky look. You'd be surprised what some people will do to an engine thinking it will be good for it!

PS: When I got my truck it was spewing water and oil out both tail pipes on the way home. There was a set of head gaskets under the seat in the truck so I said "what the hello I might as well pull the heads". I pulled them and, yep, blown head gasket! It stopped the water and oil in the tail pipes, right now! However, it didn't take the "stumble" out of it! Since then I found that one of the pistons had broken rings so I'm having the engine machined for the rebuild. Interestingly enough, the block was cracked (did not appear to be leaking water though?!) in the lifter valley right above two lifter bores, about two inches long. Whoever beat this truck last cooked it to death! I JB welded it and we're off to the races. Don't anybody bother givin me the business for the JB Weld either, that stuff works, just ask any farmer around here and he'll swear by it!

 

Well I just got back from the machine shop with the heads and the machinist told me from the information that I gave him that I have a cracked block because there is more oil pressure than coolant pressure and there was no anitfreeze in the oil pan also he says by looking at the heads there was no discoloration of antifreeze or water on the heads and I would just be wasting my money on magnafluxing the heads I even mentioned possibly if the heads were warped could cause the problem and he said there was no evidence. I went to the Ford Dealership here in town and gave them some specs on a 1977 Ford Bus model B611D standard transmission vin#B61DV060009 and they say I have a 351M or a 351W motor. I do not know how to weld or have a lot of money so here is my question now. Will the 77 Ford bus motor fit in my 75 F350 without a lot of modification and will all of these motors fit in my F350 330,359,389,391 or any other motor without a lot of modification. I need to start looking on Craigs list or ebay or wantads Thanks for the help!

 

I would say just buy another used block or used engine, doesn't matter if it runs or not, and strip it down to the bare block and put your insides back in it. You'd just need some new crank bearings, cam bearings, and some new gaskets.

 

1969Highboy thanks for your reply. I will probably look for another beater until I can get this F350 fixed I don't want to rush this project so I will pull the block and see if this it can be fixed or not, once again Thanks!

 

Just the opposite of your problem happened to me, I had milky oil. And that was because my block had a big crack in the cylinder wall. All we did was find another motor for $100, (make sure its the same block as yours). And if you do find another motor and if you plan to use your same pistons if still good, make sure you check the bore size of your new block.

 

Keep that truck an FE powered truck. You'll save yourself the extra headaches of trying to swap different engine familys. I'm saying that it's impossible, but at this stage of the game, you don't need the extra trouble. Stick with another FE and you'll be fine.