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I'd start off measuring your stroke. If the engine isn't apart yet, pop a spark plug and use a wooden dowl or stick and marker to check how far it travels. If it's close to 3.5" it could be a 360 or 352, if it's closer to 4" it should be a 390. Between the 360 and the 352 I dunno what to tell you. I think the 352 had a smaller bore than the 360, but I'm not 100% on that. Someone will be able to elaborate further.
Unfortunately, I have the engine apart already. I was so excited to tear into it, I forgot to measure the stroke. The tag attached to the coil bracket has "352" on it, so I'll have to go with that.
A 2U on the crank indicates a 390. Not sure about the 2T. You need to get some more info on those heads too. Not a very common casting from what I have seen. Might be a plain old 352 but somebody has access to the numbers.
Just looked up the crank. It is from a later model 360 so the engine has been rebuilt once upon a time. Your block shows as a 360/390 block but could also be a 428 which is not likely. I'm betting it is a 360. You could even have a 361 which seems very likely as the crank for those engines have the same 2T casting even though they are made from different materials. Measure the front snout. 1 1/8" is FE and 1 3/4" is FT I do believe. Close anyway.
You da man! I've been watching this forum for awhile and my thread here is just another of the many threads that show how much care about these great old engines, Thanks!
Ratsmoker, how do I measure the snout? I'll get that measurement right back to you.
Just measure the diameter of the very front shaft on the crank. Tell us what the diameter is. Use a tape measure. Complete accuracy is not important. There is a good difference between the two.
It's an FE then. Next thing to measure is the bore. 4" is a 352, 4.05" is a 360. Look at the tops of the pistons to see if it has been overbored. You will have to clean the carbon off the see the numbers etched in the piston top. If it says nothing it is likely a standard bore. It will say 30 if it is .030 over.
Hey Spudco, just out of curiosity, do the heads appear to have hardened seats installed in them. This is usually indicated by the seat looking like it has an inset ring. Maybe you have an engine which was rebuilt somewhere along the lines.
--Mike G
I got the pistons cleaned up. They are right at 4.00 inches. No overbore marks. They have FoMoCo on the skirt and main bearing. They have 4 "eyebrows" and a shallow, quarter size dish in the center. Lookin' like a 352 to you guys?
Mike G.,
I haven't gotten into the heads yet. I'll let you know as soon as I can get into 'em (hopefully tonight).
It's a 352. A 360 or 390 would be 4.05. You should be able to rebuild it, I would think. Parts may be slightly harder to find than a 360 or 390 but they shouldn't be much worse.
These were used on 352's in trucks along with C6AE-R's. FE car engines used them too. It's a unique head with the earlier larger D shaped chambers but the later raised intake floors and lowered exhaust ports. The C7 head was only used in '67.
Block C6ME-A, 7C31
If it's a 4" bore it's a 352. 7C31 means it was cast on March 31, 1967. These blocks can go .060" over with no problem. Usually the complete engine would have been assembled by about a month later.
Intake C7TE 9425 F
Stock 2V intake for the '67 352 and later truck FE's and some cars too. 7C17 - cast on March 17, 1967. The big T I'm really not sure on, you would think "truck" but some were used on cars too although not that many.
Your engine tag says it's a '67 352 built in April of that year (hey, I was right).
2T crank is the 3.50" stroke truck crank. Steve's book says '68 and later but I think they really started in '65. Original Ford bearings! Are there any numbers on them or can you mic the journals?
I was hoping Barry would stop by. Looks like you have an untouched 352 as far as the bottom end goes. Bore it .050 over and drop a 390 crank rods and pistons in it. You can have yourself a fine running 390. You can leave it a 352 if you like though. Make sure and do the oiling mods before you throw it back together.