Late last night I had a problem with the truck and took off to day to dive into it. I would like to post the simptoms and get some help from my fellow FTE Brothers but decided to make it more fun in that----

I would like to see everyone that post on this thread send reps to who ever gets the answer right or even partially right. So here is the story.
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2 weeks ago changed the F-filter and it was very dark. Bowl had dark greasy material on the sides and the FPR screen was fouled. Cleaned it all out and installed a new filter. One week later checked the filter and screen and it looked good. Added one can of seafoam to the front fuel tank and about 1/2 oz of bio-kleen to the rear tank. Ran off the front tank for a week and switched to the rear. Ran two days before the problem happened last night.

Started truck last night air temp was 40 f. Started just fine. Volts were down since the GPR was on. Put it in reverse and start to back out and the truck died and the check eng light came on. I restarted the truck and the engine loped and seemed to miss. I gave it some throttle and it ran better, but if I let off of the throttle and let the rpms drop to 700 it wanted to die. Smoke was filling up the garage, so I held throttle at 900 rpms or so and braked and put it into reverse.

Got the truck out into the driveway and back in park. Held the throttle at 1K rpms and it ran well. Then the engine started to rev on its on with the check engine light on and it then rev'ed up to 3000 rpms all by its lonesome; no foot. Then after a few seconds it returned to normal idle 700 and ran fine. Check engine light went out. I put it in drive an pulled it back into the garage. WTS light never flashed during the whole event.

Today I plan to
Check fuel pressure-
Remove filter and check in bowl and disasemble the fpr.
Check the IPR tin nut for tightness
Ohm out the GPR and check the GP's (external check)
Oil is not old and is synthetic.
Check the HPOP level
Pull the fuel inlet mesh screen out and clean it.
After that I will decide if I want to pull the IPR or not, I will have to make the tool though.

I do not have a scan tool.
Any other ideas or solutions or things to check would be appreciated.

Going to get some coffee on and put on the grease monkey clothes now. Will be back around lunch today to post my findings and check this post.

 

The grease like stuff of the fuel filter is algae. You need to get some Biocide and add it to your tanks. I use CRC BioCon.

As for the rest of your problem you will save yourself a lot of work by getting the codes checked. I would guess that its an ICP issue of some sort but knowing codes will save you time and MONEY!

 

yep, X2 on the scanner. unplug the ICP sensor and see if there is any oil in the connector there. the ICP will sometimes leak oil into the connector, but i very seriously doubt that is your problem. this would definitely need a scanner... could the TPS go crazy and do that Tim? i know when mine messed up it would kill the truck everytime i hit the pedal

 

Thanks Tim- The issue started after I had switched to the tank that has the biocide BIO-KLEEN - stuff was expensive.


Travis Thanks- I will try and find a scanner doubt that there is one around these parts thats worth a dang but I will check.
As soon as I hit the bottom of this cup I will jump on the ICP and check.

But so far this is what I found
Test GPR its good
Started truck fired right up no issue
Check fuel line pressure it was 45 to 53psig.
The FPR was clean as a whistle. The return screen was a little dirty cleaned it out with carb cleaner. The fuel filter looked good, but I will replace it; I have two on the shelf. The sides of the fuel bowl are clean and then I found what I think is dead algae, kind of whitish with a light pink tint. It was in the bottom of the bowl. I blasted it and started to flusing it out. Stuff fouled out my drain line. The stuff floats around in the diesel as suspended solids. Its jelly like texture. You know when you fry pork chops and the the blood fat comes out and turns whitish and rubbery? Thats how it looks but really slimy.

Do yall think it got in my IPR and made it go nuts?

Also forgot to mention that when the truck was acting up last night, I unplugged the MAP sensor, it had absolutely no effect on the trucks operation at all.

Okay I am head back out now to finish cleaning the bowl and check the ICP.

and THANKS

 

ICP was clean no oil. Looking for scan tool now, any recommendations?

 

auto ingenuity!

 

I know about the autoingenuity but I cant get that now since I would have to wait on it. I found the Actrron OBDII and the Actron OBD II Plus at the local Sears. Whats the thoughts on those two?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...+scanner&vName=

and this one

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...20090511x00001

 

are you sure there is diesel in the tank?...

 

Yep. absolutely 100% sure it has diesel, thanks for asking.

Got a scanner, its not something to jump up and down about, but I can not wait a week on a autoenginuity. Its a CANOBD2 scanner. Pulling it out of the box. Welcome to CanOBD2!

Say I think I want to do the BB shim, any problem with using a copper BB?

 

Say I think I want to do the BB shim, any problem with using a copper BB?[/quote]

 

Okay Rog posted this (below) in another thread and I want to know how to remove the plastic stand pipe of the filter bowl without breaking it. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by kawa
There really is no need to remove the fuel filter to clean the bottom of the unit or the screen.
Remover the stand pipe:
(LEFT HAND THREAD) disconnect the wire to the heater and remove the innards. Open the fuel filter drain while using brake cleaner or something similar to clean it out.

As far as the FPR screen, there is a hole located on the right side of the fuel bowl (Driver's side) about an inch or so down from the top. Take a Q-tip, remove the cotton and GENTLY scrape the crud away from the screen.
Viola, you have just cleaned the entire fuel bowl.

Everything that is suggested above you would have had to do if you remover the bowl anyway.

If you do decide to wash your engine do it either COLD or just WARM.
DO NOT wash it while it is HOT and as suggested prior..................
NO PRESSURE and avoid any and all electrical connections. Probably nothing would happen if they get overly wet but who needs the added headaches?

Hope this helps.

Rog

 

i may be wrong, but i thought that no chang upon unplugging the map meant it was bad or the line was clogged. if it was good, the truck would run worse after unplugging the map.

 

Thats what I thought too. Any body else?
Any body know how I remove the stand pipe from the F-Bowl with out oopsing it. Bandaid coming off now, must not like the diesel.

 

to remove the standpipe I have a custom (read heat with a torch and bent to a 90) wrench that I use. its a 7/8th or 22mm (same thing) hex. A crows foot wrench on a extension and ratchet will work too. its left hand thread so just turn it clockwise to remove it.

For the MAP sensor if the truck has more power with it unplugged its a bad sensor

 

do you mean unplug the hose or electrical? or same thing?