Any Ideas??????????
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
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From: South, AR
Any Ideas??????????
Hey guys, once again I'm having issues with my front end grinding sound when its very cold outside. I have replaced well lets see--both hubs, both actuators, vacuum solenoid, and vacuum lines. Once it starts grinding I flip it in to 4x4 and it stops then I pull over take it out of 4x kill the engine and plug vacuum line so that they stay locked in and not continue grinding. This is a freaking nightmare and really starting to hate ford trucks, well this 4x4 design. If any of you have any other ideas why it would still be grinding after replacing everything I've been told to from this forum I would appreciate it.
Thanks again,
JW
Thanks again,
JW
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: New Castle, PA
How about the vacuum check valves? There are two inline somewhere between the engine and the solenoid. If you didnt check them before i would now. or just replace them, they are only a couple dollars at the parts store. Or if you have a vacuum guage check the vacuum resivour (sp) box to make sure it holds vacuum. Also if you have a vacuum guage start checking all your stuff everywhere, you might have a slightly leaky connection somewhere that might just need a dab of slicone sealant on it.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
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From: South, AR
How about the vacuum check valves? There are two inline somewhere between the engine and the solenoid. If you didnt check them before i would now. or just replace them, they are only a couple dollars at the parts store. Or if you have a vacuum guage check the vacuum resivour (sp) box to make sure it holds vacuum. Also if you have a vacuum guage start checking all your stuff everywhere, you might have a slightly leaky connection somewhere that might just need a dab of slicone sealant on it.
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From: New Castle, PA
Yes the box is behind the battery on the fender. If you have a vacuum guage i would replace the two check valves, and then start checking things out again with the vacuum guage and see where you might be loosing some vacuum at.
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From: New Castle, PA
I think the norm for the system to hold is anywhere from 15-22 (of however its measured) The hubs engage when the system reaches and falls below 5. So what your hearing is the vacuum in the system getting too low and getting real close to that 5, if its grinding and not just engaging.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Bethlehem, PA
Hey XJ, What your saying is that the loss of vacuum is causing his hubs to try and engage while driving in 2wd. Then my problem being the opposite that I was dealing with on the other thread, Where my drivers side only makes a little noise when in 4wd. If I am thinking about this right; My actuator has to be bad and allowing the vacuum to bleed through allowing the actuator to try and disengage while driving in 4wd. Does this sound right? I am still waiting for my vacuum pump to arrive to start testing. Does anyone know if you can get the actuators from other than the dealership, And what price range do they run?
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Joined: May 2008
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From: South, AR
Sounds like it to me magnet. Well I replaced the vac hose that runs behind the intake. I called myself checking the check valves only way I knew how. I blew on one end and nothin happened switched around and air flows thru. Good valve??? Anyways with truck running at idle I can spin cv axle freely at least when its 32 deg outside. We'll see about it in the morning when its 23deg. Couldn't find check valves at any part store around Orielly, autozone, advance. Dealer item?? Actuators are a dealer item magnet. I ordered mine from silverstateford.com they are cheaper than most I've found, they are bout $85 a piece.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Bethlehem, PA
Sounds good JWilly... My truck only has 30,000 miles on it, So my vacuum lines look brand new. After reading a lot of posts, I replaced the solenoid with the new style that has the shield on it, Thinking for a cheap $30 bucks it might solve my problem. I have a mild noise ( Playing cards in the spokes ) kind of sound coming from my drivers side when 4wd is engaged. The 4wd works great, You can just hear a slight tapping. I know from everyone's help I am on the right path, But I think I will use a vacuum pump to test the actuator before I dump the $80.00 on it. There is not a whole lot of things in the IWE system; Its narrowing it down before you go broke.
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From: South, AR
Wow 30k on an 05 you are doing good on mileage. You must have another vehicle or just don't drive much. I've got 102k on my 06 yikes! Still runs good tho, now if I can get this grinding fixed I'll be doing good. Hope you get yours figured out, if it turns out that you need a new actuator, they are pretty simple to do.
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From: New Castle, PA
Jwilly... thats how i checked my check valves, by blowing, but you want to make sure that absolutely no air gets through, not even a little bit. One of my check valves would let just the tiniest amount of air through and it was enough to drop the vacuum slightly.
Magnet....If you have replaced the solenoid and you noise has deminished you might have solved some of the problem. But if you keep getting a poping noise, is that how you described it? it might be a CV joint? Just a thought, cause that front axle is only going to turn when in 4 wheel, so that joint is only going to spin and pop when in 4 wheel. But i think you did solve some of the problem when you replaced the solenoid, especially if the noise has deminished. If you get a vacuum guage and everything checks out fine, and you tear things apart and everything looks good, i would check the CV joint.
Anyone else agree?
Here is a thread from another board sort of showing how to tear the front apart. This is the thread i referenced when doing this.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/200...replacing.html
Magnet....If you have replaced the solenoid and you noise has deminished you might have solved some of the problem. But if you keep getting a poping noise, is that how you described it? it might be a CV joint? Just a thought, cause that front axle is only going to turn when in 4 wheel, so that joint is only going to spin and pop when in 4 wheel. But i think you did solve some of the problem when you replaced the solenoid, especially if the noise has deminished. If you get a vacuum guage and everything checks out fine, and you tear things apart and everything looks good, i would check the CV joint.
Anyone else agree?
Here is a thread from another board sort of showing how to tear the front apart. This is the thread i referenced when doing this.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/200...replacing.html
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From: South, AR
Yeah I agree with ya xj about the cv axle making the clicking noise. May wanna check the boots for tears cause I had a tear in my driver side and it had started making a light clicking noise, once I replaced it no more noise.
Magnet- I used the Haynes manual to disassemble hub. Pretty easy- remove brake caliper, remove spindle nut from cv shaft coming thru hub, three-four (cant remember) large bolts hold the hub on knuckle, and speed sensor on top of hub connected by allen bolt.
Oh yeah 17deg this morning on my way to work-- NO GRINDING!!!!!!! Hot damn I might of fixed this sob with a $2 vacuum hose. The old one I took off was almost pinched into that ran behind intake. The bracket it was in had it squeezed bad.
Magnet- I used the Haynes manual to disassemble hub. Pretty easy- remove brake caliper, remove spindle nut from cv shaft coming thru hub, three-four (cant remember) large bolts hold the hub on knuckle, and speed sensor on top of hub connected by allen bolt.
Oh yeah 17deg this morning on my way to work-- NO GRINDING!!!!!!! Hot damn I might of fixed this sob with a $2 vacuum hose. The old one I took off was almost pinched into that ran behind intake. The bracket it was in had it squeezed bad.