1. Yes, double flare. 3. How much material do you remove for the chamfer, just a light pass?

Maybe a few more practice flares will get us there.

Thanks,
Duane.

 

I'll second that, I've screwed that up more than once.... worst I did was think I had the wrong fitting on the end, cut it off, put the "right" one on, and then realize the first one was actually the right one...

You're not going to get flare that look like the factory ones. They have fancy hydraulic flarers that work real nice. As long as it looks mostly centered on the line, and nothing really screwy, it will work fine. I think I've only had one flare not seal properly. So far I've redone all the rear lines on a ranger, everything except one line on a VW Jetta, and most of the lines on my F250.

 

3. I like to make several passes with a file. They do make a chamfering tool but, I've used that mostly for copper. Interesting: I've a daughter named Dawn who married a Schmidt.

 

This process has given me the best results:
Use a tubing cutter, then a reamer to clean up the ID. With the holder together but not tight, push the tubing through from the non-beveled side. Place the inverted flare adapter upside-down on the holder next to the tubing, and set the tubing end even with the flange on the adapter. Tighten it down evenly and -tight- then put the adapter in the end of the tubing. Squeeze it down with the clamp, remove the adapter, then finish with the cone clamp. You should now have a very nice double flare.
A 30" chunk of tube is under $10, so practice is cheap. Some of the better tubing cutters have a groove in the rollers so they can cut right behind the flare. Doing that, you only lose about 1/2" of tube for every flare.

 

That works for me too, Jared.

 

Thanks. Practice is helping.

-Duane.