Hi guys,

My gut feeling tells me this is a simple question and solution for all you pro's out there. I appreciate your patience as you advise the mentally challenged problem solver. ri_truck_guy, something tells me you may have the answer I'm looking for. Okay, I installed an aftermarket distributor and coil. I identified the start and run wires required to power the coil in both key positions but I'm getting 12V feed back through the start wire due to it picking up 12V through the run wire at the coil. Is there something I can install inline with the start trigger to eliminate the feedback or? I can live with the temporary toggle switch supplying the coil from the dog house but only until after the Daytona 500. Right now it kinda fits within the NASCAR season opener mood I'm in. Following the season opener I'm going to have issues with the quick fix because in real life it's really lame.

Thanks

 

whats a dog house?

 

hey, kj! i am weakest in things electrical...but, like chatting with you all the same

 

I put a toggle switch in the cab as a quick fix because I didn't want to wait to drive the darn thing. I'm curious as to what differences in performance there are with the new HEI and Holley 2300. So far, I am more impressed than I thought I'd be. Maybe in part because it was running like poop for long enough to get used to it being a lame duck.

 

I mean it wasn't running super bad. To the extent that when I parked it after a drive I always had a feeling something wasn't right. My wife says that about me sometimes as well. "Somethin about you just aint right honey"

 

How the heck are ya GG. Like your posts, I can tell your an oldie like me. No offense

 

KJ, what you need is a diode in the wire between the coil and the starter solenoid so the stater can power up the coil but the coil cannot power up the starter. The potential issue I see with this is the HEI system is a power hog and needs at least 12awg wire to feed it juice, I'm sure there are big diodes that can match that but I dunno where to get one and how much it'd run for. Instead I have the following game plan:

1) Hook your factory wiring back to the starter solenoid, remove the crossover wire that you added between the starter and the coil, and also remove the wire that now powers your HEI distributor.

2) Locate the red factory wire that used to power up the factory ignition coil - it's a key-on positive wire (the coil is actually triggered by the Duraspark II ignition through the negative coil wire, so removal of the factory ignition system in favor of the HEI will not affect the power to that one red positive factory wire).

3) Use this wire to trigger a regular Bosch-style 30-amp automotive relay (you can buy this at any parts store). Run a 12awg wire from the battery to the relay, and then another 12 awg wire from the relay to the HEI dizzy.

What all this accomplishes - your truck will start just like it did when it was all factory, only now instead of directly feeding the ignition coil the factory wiring will only energize the relay that will in turn power the HEI. No diodes to mess with, no cross-feeding current to where it don't belong, no dangerous ghetto-fix switches. How does that sound?

 

Sorry guys...been kind of tied up today...my wife had a little surgery done this morning, but she's home and all is well...

I looked over Archangel's post and think he's nailed it. Put the Red/Light Blue starter trigger wire back to normal and use the Red/Green Coil positive wire as a relay trigger to power the HEI. Clean, simple, and effective.

 

In 1983, the red/lightgreen should work. For extra insurance, you could also cut the brown/pink and twist it together with the red/lightgreen. You should take these two wires and connect them to a new 12 gauge wire and run it out to the HEI dist. As was said before, the HEI is a hot ignition and needs a larger wire to run it, and also you cannot use the original Ford coil + wire because of the resistance wire in the harness.

 

Hey you guys that's awesome. Thank you very much for the tech info, don't know what I'd do without you!

 

we got some good guys.....i was on another thread and some dudes there were really rude and obnoxious. the moderator should step in

 

Was that here on FTE? That's odd, most folks here tend to be rather considerate, ya know the whole "9 rule" thing and all...

 

Even with the resistor inline this should still be enough to trigger a relay, a 30-amp one don't need much to get energized. As a direct power for the HEI tho, you are correct, it won't work.

 

I thought the brown/pink already spliced into the red/green after the resistor.

 

Yes you are correct, it is splce in about 3 inches from the plug on the left inner fender. Look for the thick black rubber splice. Photo below is an EEC-IV that has an extra bypass wire to bypass the resistor wire, thus there is 3 wires in the photo.