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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 01:50 AM
  #16  
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From: The boonies by Dallas OR
Originally Posted by RRranch
To shift to 4 low, always do it with transmission in neutral and truck stopped completely. Shift in and out stopped and in neutral.
If you know how to shift a non-syncro stick you can take it in and out of 4 low on a stick shift truck.

Even on an automatic you can go from 4 lo to 4 hi on the fly without grinding.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 02:12 AM
  #17  
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It was mentioned earlier about auto hubs needing to be reversed to unlock them. If you don't do this you will probably feel it up front, especially at hwy speeds.

I'm not 100% positive on our trucks, but I know on my old nissan it wasn't so much "go in reverse" to unlock them, but "go in reverse from what you went in to lock them in the first place..." ie if you locked the auto hubs by going forward, then you go in reverse, but if you engaged them going in reverse in the first place, you go forward. It's made me develop the habit to just go back and forward.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 07:27 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by George Frasier
dougbrown - Hiway tread/front & M/S rear ?? IF you R off-road, you might want good steering... There migfht be a slight UNDER-steer thing going on in 4x4 off-road. Running "slicks" on the front may be fun if on THICK ice - but not good if you're on a narrow trail or going up a steep incline. IF you're playing in a smooth/level field, it won't matter much at slow speed. IF you want to be serious about off-road later, get an extra set of 8-10 inch rims and mount M/S tread for when you go play...(It's easier & cheaper to change tires than to replace fenders or more. BETTER YET - go play with somebody else in their 4x4 and learn.
Thanks for the info george. I have a 76 chevy k10 for a 4 wheeler.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 07:32 AM
  #19  
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That word is a sin on this site. Keep that to yourself
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 07:34 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dougbrown
Thanks for the info george. I have a 76 chevy k10 for a 4 wheeler.
That word(che___) is not liked here. Keep that to yourself!

Interesting how I double posted that??? Oh, well
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:09 AM
  #21  
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I don't see anyone else making a big deal out of it.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:44 AM
  #22  
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Meant to be a joke. Although somewhat serious, laugh a little, come on man!!!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Meant to be a joke. Although somewhat serious, laugh a little, come on man!!!
I seen your first post as a joke but the second one I took serious. It all good! I take my for any day over the che__!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #24  
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That's just the idiot here running the computer! I thought I lost the first one.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #25  
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Just to spice this thread up with a little disagreement......You can run 4 hi on dry pavement at any speed you want. AS LONG AS YOU DON'T TURN. I use 4wd for drag racing sometime and I from launch to 90 mph I am in 4wd. I don't do it on the open road. I also run 4wd on slick roads at any speed up to what I feel to be safe for conditions.

Other than that all good advice previous!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tjbeggs
Just to spice this thread up with a little disagreement......You can run 4 hi on dry pavement at any speed you want. AS LONG AS YOU DON'T TURN. I use 4wd for drag racing sometime and I from launch to 90 mph I am in 4wd. I don't do it on the open road. I also run 4wd on slick roads at any speed up to what I feel to be safe for conditions.

Other than that all good advice previous!
I was woundering about that. I know people put there trucks into 4x4 if there pulling a heavy trailer the drop back too 2wd after they get going.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:58 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Fullcrew7.3
A question like that would get you flamed hard in the 4x4 forum. Here, at home in the OBS PSD forum, life is good. These guys ROCK!
lol everyone needs a lil hand holdin from time to time.

Originally Posted by dougbrown
Thanks guys! Why never run in 4x4 on dry pavement? Also truck is stock
this is what happens in an extreme instance when the t-case is forced to make up the difference (drive slugs, welded diffs, longfield joints, 300M rear output, 39" iroks, and a healthy 302). this is not an aluminum or magnesium case, thats cast steel, it was not cracked or broken to begin with. i did this to three cases before figuring out the gears were different b/t the front and rear axle!


-cutts-
 
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 12:26 AM
  #28  
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I first thought that was a NP205...

Is that a Dana 300?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 06:34 AM
  #29  
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Dana 20 found under stock early broncos. the D300 is very similar but has a lil larger case.

-cutts-
 
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #30  
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From: The boonies by Dallas OR
Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
Dana 20 found under stock early broncos. the D300 is very similar but has a lil larger case.

-cutts-
'K, thanks.

What came to mind at first was the NP205, but the only time I've heard of those busting a case is when someone went crazy with nitro.

Then I noticed the straight cut rear gear so I knew it was a oldie case.
 
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