Im back!!! Putting the 351c/c6 into the truck!!!Need help with the trans mount.
#16
Small block bell housings are the same, although this would be a good time to install a scattershield, and the top loader should bolt right up. Depending on which tailshaft housing you have the shifter may or may not be in the right place but there are bosses cast into the housing that you can drill and tap, good time for a Competition Plus shifter too. Good Luck
#17
not to get too far off the topic but I have 4 toploaders here. an Srod, a 3.03, a rug-cl, and a RAB they all have the same mounting surface to trans mount numbers about 13" and they all have the same input length at just about 7".
If anyone has a heavy 3 or an original 4 speed T9? I'd love to know the input shaft length that sticks out of the trans. Or the total measurement of a hogs head and the engine ring I want to put the SRO(OD) behind my flathead.
I read on one on the linked posted here that one of our members mounted a 302 and a toploader and used the original crossmember. I measured up my truck and it's real close, I may just have to pull the trany and see if it fit's but then I'll have to drop another $200 on clutch parts ect...
If anyone has a heavy 3 or an original 4 speed T9? I'd love to know the input shaft length that sticks out of the trans. Or the total measurement of a hogs head and the engine ring I want to put the SRO(OD) behind my flathead.
I read on one on the linked posted here that one of our members mounted a 302 and a toploader and used the original crossmember. I measured up my truck and it's real close, I may just have to pull the trany and see if it fit's but then I'll have to drop another $200 on clutch parts ect...
#21
Hi Jetman,
Best advice I can give you about putting the manual transmission into the 51 is study the clutch pedal actuation arrangement you have in there now and be sure you can either find a bell housing that supports the rotating pedal actuation, or a pedal arrangement you can replace the stock ones with. Finding a bell housing to get the transmission to bolt up to the engine shouldn't be a problem at all, but, the clutch pedals in the 51/52 don't use a throw out fork like later models.....Just look at it and you will see what I mean...Food for thought in planning.
Best advice I can give you about putting the manual transmission into the 51 is study the clutch pedal actuation arrangement you have in there now and be sure you can either find a bell housing that supports the rotating pedal actuation, or a pedal arrangement you can replace the stock ones with. Finding a bell housing to get the transmission to bolt up to the engine shouldn't be a problem at all, but, the clutch pedals in the 51/52 don't use a throw out fork like later models.....Just look at it and you will see what I mean...Food for thought in planning.
#22
#23
Ok well let me add a couple things as food for thought.
First, in order to mount your C6, youare going to have to cut out the existing transmission cross member.
This a a very stout cross member and not only supports the transmission, but also provided substantial bracing support to the frame.
You are going to have to replace that support and I'll tell you right off the bat that the tube type transmission supports aren't going to be stout enough to do that. So, you are going to have to either build something to brace your frame in the center and use the tube type just to hold the transmission up, or incorporate the two.
How do I know this? I have a 390/C6 in my 51 and have the tube type mount. One day I was turning around on my sloped driveway to back my truck into the garage. When I shifted out of drive and into reverse to back up the hill, the entire front left corner of my truck twisted and lifted up like I had driven up a foot tall shop stand with it. The guy who does my springs told me I definately needed a cross brace to stabilize the frame. I'm working on it.
In the mean time here are a couple links about this we had previously with pictures. You can see my set up with the tube type transmission cross mount.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...on-mounts.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-51-f-1-a.html
Have fun!
First, in order to mount your C6, youare going to have to cut out the existing transmission cross member.
This a a very stout cross member and not only supports the transmission, but also provided substantial bracing support to the frame.
You are going to have to replace that support and I'll tell you right off the bat that the tube type transmission supports aren't going to be stout enough to do that. So, you are going to have to either build something to brace your frame in the center and use the tube type just to hold the transmission up, or incorporate the two.
How do I know this? I have a 390/C6 in my 51 and have the tube type mount. One day I was turning around on my sloped driveway to back my truck into the garage. When I shifted out of drive and into reverse to back up the hill, the entire front left corner of my truck twisted and lifted up like I had driven up a foot tall shop stand with it. The guy who does my springs told me I definately needed a cross brace to stabilize the frame. I'm working on it.
In the mean time here are a couple links about this we had previously with pictures. You can see my set up with the tube type transmission cross mount.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...on-mounts.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-51-f-1-a.html
Have fun!
#24
Roger, On my 49 what I did was to install a new transmission cross member like one of the ones on ebay and moved the original crossmember back just behind the AOD. This maintained the frame rigidity and I got a safety loop in the unlikely event of a total u joint failure in the process. One pic in my gallery shows this relationship. Note that to get the engine angle correct, I placed a 1/2 spacer between the bottom of the frame rail and the new transmission crossmember. Not a 390 or a c-6. (383 stroker with a 700R4)
#25
I have a 460 and c6 mustang II front end and i didnt have to get rid of my stock trans member or buy a aftermarket trans cover for the cab either. it took a few days of positioning it in the right spot and 3 different oil pans later lol but its in for good and dosent rub anything.. depending on what motor mounts your using you could lower it some more and not have to use that spacer.
You can't see it in this picture but with the FE installation mounted high enough for the fan to clear the front crossmember and back far enough to not poke through the radiator, that places the bell housing about 1/2 inch from the corner of the firewall on the top and the top of the transmission so close to the transmission cover, the e-brake cable barely fit over it. Valve covers are about 3/4 of an inch forward of the firewall. And the pinion angle still had to be adjusted by about 5 degrees
What you can see in the picture is that the tube mount is at least a foot farther aft than the stock transmission mount, and the transmission is at least 9 inches too deep to fit over it even if I did pull it forward that foot. We aren't talking "it's close and can be wiggled in" in this truck we are talking "not no way." Getting that to fit unmodified kind of boggles my imagination. I'd be interested in seeing a few pictures of your installation.
This picture with the C6 in the F1 pretty much tells it's own story:
#26
it could be that you are using your the stock strait axle but im not sure. ill get some pictures up soon of the transmission i pulled everything back out to get my crankshaft turned but i got a few pics of the 460 in where it will stay. as you can see i did notch my mustang 2 crossmember to clearance the oil pan.
The pinion angle wont be a problem because ill be using a 4 link setup with all adjustable links.
The pinion angle wont be a problem because ill be using a 4 link setup with all adjustable links.
#27
#28
Mitch, that he should tell his friend (you) that you would get much better response by starting a new thread and asking, rather then tacking on at the end of an existing one where it will not get noticed.
#29
Thanks for the pics nordvic! Yep, I'm using the stock I-beam axel.
And I can see from your pictures that if that axel is going out to your wheels and they are centered on your wheel wells, your engine is sitting aout 8 to 9 inches farther froward than mine is.
My front axel is about even with the front edge of the oil pan.
Space with this set up, especially when trying to run the brake cable, throttle linkages and shift rods, and heater outlet tubes, was a real challenge. So, I was hoping you had discovered something I had missed. It looks like you invented more options with the IFS.
I wonder what the difference is between the finished length (from front of the fan blades to back edge of transmission mounting surface) of the 460 and an FE.
Thanks again!
And I can see from your pictures that if that axel is going out to your wheels and they are centered on your wheel wells, your engine is sitting aout 8 to 9 inches farther froward than mine is.
My front axel is about even with the front edge of the oil pan.
Space with this set up, especially when trying to run the brake cable, throttle linkages and shift rods, and heater outlet tubes, was a real challenge. So, I was hoping you had discovered something I had missed. It looks like you invented more options with the IFS.
I wonder what the difference is between the finished length (from front of the fan blades to back edge of transmission mounting surface) of the 460 and an FE.
Thanks again!