I've got an all stock '51 that I am considering putting a 302 with an automatic in. At this time, I plan on leaving the straight axle under the front of it. Has anyone done this? I've seen crossmembers through places like CPP but are there any other modifications I would need to make to make this work?

 

Should be a drop in swap. Only time you might run into interference is between the front sump oil pan and a IFS crossmember. If that becomes an issue then the solution is in Ford's parts inventory, the rear sump pan and oil pump they originally used in the Bronco.
Add a Toyota PS box with the stock 302 PS pump on the engine (virtually a bolt in swap with the available aftermarket parts) to the rebuilt front suspension/axle and you'll have a sweet ride. Also the Jag IFS is one of the easiest ways to update your truck if you decide you need IFS, again practically a bolt in swap on the F1. Keep posting, once you hit the "magic" threshold of 25 posts all kinds of wonderful features will become available to you including the search function. There is a wealth of info available on here along with the best bunch of helpful people. WELCOME!

 

You won't have any problems putting a 302 into your truck and leaving the stock front end in it.

I put a 390/C6 in mine and actually with the mods I made to the engine (WRT exhausting) HAD to leave the stock front end it. Your stock steering will be fine (it will fit anyway) and so will the stock oil pan, etc. The only things you will have to customize is the exhaust - look at Sanderson headers - and of course throttle, shift, that kind of thing.

There are quite a few parts places that sell a set of conversion motor mounts for the F1/302 combo. You may have to move or modify your transmission mount cross member a little depending on the transmission you use and you may have to grind out the existing front flathead motor mount stancheons.

That will be a really nice combination. If you don't have the motor yet I'd consider a 351Windsor as well.

Are you planning on putting a 9" rear end in it? Might think about it for freeway speeds, otherwise 50 mph is about as fast as you will go!

And BTW, the stock front end steers just fine with the 390 in it, the stock brakes stop me VERY well, and although a little "truck like" the front suspension will be just fine as well.

 

Holy smokes! You people are on it! I'm impressed!

Yes, I plan on putting a 9-inch in down the road. I'm trying to build a budget truck. I (somehow) bought this truck for $100 (I'm still impressed that I was actually in the right place at the right time--which NEVER happens to me) so that's kinda the theme I'm going for. I'm trying to see if I can get this thing on the road for somewhere in the $1,000-$1,500 range. So purchase price, wheels/tires, engine, everything. After I accomplish that, then I will go back and fix some of that kind of stuff.

BTW, not to make any of you hate me but the truck is 100% complete, has no cancer, has a Merc flattie in it and came with a pink slip. See why I'm impressed with myself?

 

You should be! Great job!

Pictures....we need pictures.

OBTW, if you eventually re engine, that merc flatty is worth a pretty penny. You might be able to double your budget!

PS good thing gas price has gone down, a tank of gas would have eaten up 10% of your budget!

 

Hey there! I've been busy trying to put this thing together. Ok, so this is what I've ended up with. I bought an '86 Ford E150 with a really nice running 351 H.O./C6 combo. So that's what I'll be putting in my truck. Will I have to cut the original trans crossmember? Should I use one of those bolt-in styles?

 

Hi Welcome back,

That's a GREAT drive train!!!!!!

But yes you will have to cut the stock transmission cross member and install a "dropped" tube type.

You will want to do it so you leave just enough of the left (drivers side) mount to keep your brake master cylinder. And, of course as you probably knew already, are going to have to do something with the drive shaft. I have some great pictures for you - in a sec.

In that light, with that strong of a drive train, putting in a 9" rear end with a little better gearing will be a great finish!

Here's the pics:





Another nice thing is you can actually use your stock column shift and convert it to shift your C6. It's VERY tight (like 1/8 inch of tolerance) but it can be done.

When you get that far let me know and I'll post some pics of that. Or if you want to send me a PM with your e-mail address, I would be happy to send them all to you full size. It's easier than trying to dig them up out of old posts here.

 

What's the current skinny on that Merc flathead?

 

As you plot and scheme to get your new powertrain installed, look carefully at the transmission crossmember. The original crossmember is obviously in the way of about any modern transmission, but it is also designed to keep the frame rails parallel. It attaches at the top and bottom of the rail channels and ties the rails together. When you cut it and add a new one to support your transmission, make sure that your new crossmember attaches in such a way that it will perform that same function. Don't use a crossmember that attaches to just the bottom flange. I've seen too many done that way and it's NOT the safe or correct way to go about it. That will allow the rails to twist in that loooong space between the front frossmember and the one that has the parking brake mechanism mounted on it. Want proof? When you cut the trans. crossmember, lay under the truck and have somebody stand on a running board. You'll immediately see the rail twist.

 

I agree that the trans crossmember is key to keeping the frame rails straight and parallel instead of flexing. Somewhat!

Nothing about the frame keeps the rails from moving fore and aft, though, except for the body and engine attached to them. If you split your original trans crossmember and add another farther back for a modern transmission, how about triangulating the two? How about an additional tubular crossmember/driveshaft hoop in an X shape? Doesn't have to be heavy wall at all. Just strong enough to keep the rails in place and catch the driveshaft if the worst happens to the Ujoints.

Boxing the frame (if you have the body off) isn't a bad plan either. But if you want the ability to return things to "stock", a well thought out additional crossmember or triangulating member can be bolt-in and removable. The next trucker may want to restore it. Don't make it impossible.

 

I sold it to a guy and made enough on it to buy this running van and then some. With the money left over, I was able to pick up a '69 F100 9-inch with 3.25 gears and a Ranger seat. Oh, and I still had a little bit to burn so I bought a couple other knick-knacks for it.

 

My goal is to have this thing up and running for the Midnight Mass car show here in Sac on July 25th. I just sold another classic I had to free up some $$ to help make this happen. I plan on spending an insane amount of money (for me anyway) at Sacramento Vintage Ford on Wednesday. Should give me plenty to do and I should just about have everything I need. I will keep you posted.....

Wish me luck!!

 

Going back to the crossmember question, I retained the original crossmember but moved it back behind in my case the 700R4 and then added a drop crossmember to support the transmission. You will then need to fab (or buy) a new master cylinder mount (I made mine-it is simple). This retains the frame rigidity and does not require any cutting on the original crossmember. Just remove the rivots.
There is a picture in my gallery of the relocated original crossmember looking from the rear.

 

Exactly what I am doing. A 302 from a 90 Lincoln (only year it came with the 5.0 with the cool "Mustang" FI intake. An AOD tranny with a Dana 60 with 3.55 gears in it. We are fabbing 3 new crossmembers and boxing the frame so it is rigid. I want to be able to tow my 65 mustang behind this beauty. Let me know if you have any questions or snags. We have already researched the crap out of this and started the frame sections. Engine, tranny, and rearend are just waiting to be bolted in. Using a IDIDIT tilt column with shifter to clear the floor space up.

 

If you use a c4 auto you can put in a 302 or 351w with no modifications to the stock cross member OR the floor.

I had a 302 in my truck for a few years and now have a 393W it was a real easy swap if you have any questions just PM me.