Engine codes 332, 334, 327
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Engine codes 332, 334, 327
Alright folks, here's my dilemma--fuel pumps went out, removed the bed to replace them. Got that all squared away. Before the pump went bad, never had check engine light. Now, I show the above codes, 327, 332, and 334, all relating to the EGR valve. I've heard a variety of things from "its nothing" to "you need a new EGR valve". Can anyone point me in the right direction to go here, since I"m baffled as to why this is happening after fuel pump replacement.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
You did not say what codes they were, so I will guess they are Continuous Memory (CM) and not KOEO or KOER codes. They have different meanings depending on what type of code they are.
Continuous Memory DTC 327 indicates the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Continuous Memory DTC 334 indicates the EGR valve was open while the engine was stabilized and at idle sometime during vehicle operation.
As you can see you have conflicting codes so they may have been very old codes mixed in with new codes.
You need to clear the codes by removing the ground on the STI wire when the flashing starts or by using the a scanner. Never remove the battery cables to clear codes. Only remove the battery cable if you change a sensor so it can learn the ins and outs of the new sensor.
Continuous Memory DTC 327 indicates the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Continuous Memory DTC 334 indicates the EGR valve was open while the engine was stabilized and at idle sometime during vehicle operation.
As you can see you have conflicting codes so they may have been very old codes mixed in with new codes.
You need to clear the codes by removing the ground on the STI wire when the flashing starts or by using the a scanner. Never remove the battery cables to clear codes. Only remove the battery cable if you change a sensor so it can learn the ins and outs of the new sensor.
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How do I determine the code that is triggering the CEL when I"m driving down the road?
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