Help with egr codes
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
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Help with egr codes
334 egr closed high voltage
332 insuficient egr flow
337 Egr sensor circuit above maximum voltage
558. Egr valve regulator solenoid circuit failure
So my truck always had a rough idle. Now it wont idle at all after i rev it. Stalls after i let off the gas. Plz help guys
332 insuficient egr flow
337 Egr sensor circuit above maximum voltage
558. Egr valve regulator solenoid circuit failure
So my truck always had a rough idle. Now it wont idle at all after i rev it. Stalls after i let off the gas. Plz help guys
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,325
Likes: 291
From: Laramie, WY
T a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line feeding the EGR valve. Should have no vacuum at idle, and a few inches driving. Mine idled poorly, gave me the insufficient flow code, when in fact in had too much EGR flow and the vacuum to the EGR valve never shut off at idle. No EGR is going to run ok but maybe ping, too much EGR causes poor running.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 336
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T a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line feeding the EGR valve. Should have no vacuum at idle, and a few inches driving. Mine idled poorly, gave me the insufficient flow code, when in fact in had too much EGR flow and the vacuum to the EGR valve never shut off at idle. No EGR is going to run ok but maybe ping, too much EGR causes poor running.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,325
Likes: 291
From: Laramie, WY
Measure the vacuum first. There's a few different components of the system, could be any one of them. Other's will likely chime in with more help too. I'm not an expert. This is worth a quick read for you though: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0401
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,784
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The computer on your truck cannot measure EGR flow, it relies on EGR position feedback from the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor on the top of it. The correct definition for Code 332 is EGR valve opening not detected. That is probably caused by Code 558, EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit failure. That tells the EVR is probably disconnected or it is bad.
If the EGR valve is partially stuck open you would typically have a high idle and it could cause the stalling.
If the EGR valve is partially stuck open you would typically have a high idle and it could cause the stalling.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,784
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
EGR is not opening and the closed value is too high. Could be a partially stuck open EGR valve and/or a bad EVP sensor. It's a process of proper diagnosis. Measure the EVP output with a meter to verify what the computer is reporting. Also pull off the EGR and inspect it for signs of carbon build up.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
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EGR is not opening and the closed value is too high. Could be a partially stuck open EGR valve and/or a bad EVP sensor. It's a process of proper diagnosis. Measure the EVP output with a meter to verify what the computer is reporting. Also pull off the EGR and inspect it for signs of carbon build up.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
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So im assuming this is most of the problem lol
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 336
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So after trying to break the "carbon" out of the port... I soon realized that it is actually jb weld or some sort of epoxy maybe... But at the same time it looks like some sort of metal...
So here is my question, i guess i have to buy a new egr, but my vacuum canister is also removed. So do i have to buy both to get the system to work or is there a way i can just delete the egr and mess with the timing to get rid of the pinging.... Im not sure what to do tbh... If you guys had to make the choice what would u guys do... I have no inspections to worry about or anything. I just want my engine to be healthy and reliable, preferably with less money. Thank in advance
So here is my question, i guess i have to buy a new egr, but my vacuum canister is also removed. So do i have to buy both to get the system to work or is there a way i can just delete the egr and mess with the timing to get rid of the pinging.... Im not sure what to do tbh... If you guys had to make the choice what would u guys do... I have no inspections to worry about or anything. I just want my engine to be healthy and reliable, preferably with less money. Thank in advance
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
So after trying to break the "carbon" out of the port... I soon realized that it is actually jb weld or some sort of epoxy maybe... But at the same time it looks like some sort of metal...
So here is my question, i guess i have to buy a new egr, but my vacuum canister is also removed. So do i have to buy both to get the system to work or is there a way i can just delete the egr and mess with the timing to get rid of the pinging.... Im not sure what to do tbh... If you guys had to make the choice what would u guys do... I have no inspections to worry about or anything. I just want my engine to be healthy and reliable, preferably with less money. Thank in advance
So here is my question, i guess i have to buy a new egr, but my vacuum canister is also removed. So do i have to buy both to get the system to work or is there a way i can just delete the egr and mess with the timing to get rid of the pinging.... Im not sure what to do tbh... If you guys had to make the choice what would u guys do... I have no inspections to worry about or anything. I just want my engine to be healthy and reliable, preferably with less money. Thank in advance
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 74
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Ignore the Egr, I've never had one on my fords that worked and I block em all off anyway, nothin but a headache to me, and it really doesn't offer as much benefit as people think. What's the truck were working on? I'd test the IAC and the Tps first and take it from there and work your way across all of them. Does it only stall when driving it and gassing it? Or all the time