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Help with egr codes

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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 03:14 PM
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Help with egr codes

334 egr closed high voltage
332 insuficient egr flow
337 Egr sensor circuit above maximum voltage
558. Egr valve regulator solenoid circuit failure

So my truck always had a rough idle. Now it wont idle at all after i rev it. Stalls after i let off the gas. Plz help guys
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 04:35 PM
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T a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line feeding the EGR valve. Should have no vacuum at idle, and a few inches driving. Mine idled poorly, gave me the insufficient flow code, when in fact in had too much EGR flow and the vacuum to the EGR valve never shut off at idle. No EGR is going to run ok but maybe ping, too much EGR causes poor running.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
T a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line feeding the EGR valve. Should have no vacuum at idle, and a few inches driving. Mine idled poorly, gave me the insufficient flow code, when in fact in had too much EGR flow and the vacuum to the EGR valve never shut off at idle. No EGR is going to run ok but maybe ping, too much EGR causes poor running.
So i am going to napa tomorrow. If it say too much flow, how do i fix the code problem and stalling? Also if the flow is too little
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:28 PM
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Measure the vacuum first. There's a few different components of the system, could be any one of them. Other's will likely chime in with more help too. I'm not an expert. This is worth a quick read for you though: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0401
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:30 PM
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The computer on your truck cannot measure EGR flow, it relies on EGR position feedback from the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor on the top of it. The correct definition for Code 332 is EGR valve opening not detected. That is probably caused by Code 558, EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit failure. That tells the EVR is probably disconnected or it is bad.



If the EGR valve is partially stuck open you would typically have a high idle and it could cause the stalling.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:58 PM
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Ok so i should check the evr? If its bad then the evp is saying that the egr is not opening and closing... Correct?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Thedonk
Ok so i should check the evr? If its bad then the evp is saying that the egr is not opening and closing... Correct?
EGR is not opening and the closed value is too high. Could be a partially stuck open EGR valve and/or a bad EVP sensor. It's a process of proper diagnosis. Measure the EVP output with a meter to verify what the computer is reporting. Also pull off the EGR and inspect it for signs of carbon build up.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
EGR is not opening and the closed value is too high. Could be a partially stuck open EGR valve and/or a bad EVP sensor. It's a process of proper diagnosis. Measure the EVP output with a meter to verify what the computer is reporting. Also pull off the EGR and inspect it for signs of carbon build up.
Cool man thanks. Ill go and get on that when i get home tonight. Lets hope this fixes the rough idle ive had for the past six months lol
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Thedonk
Cool man thanks. Ill go and get on that when i get home tonight. Lets hope this fixes the rough idle ive had for the past six months lol



So im assuming this is most of the problem lol
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Thedonk


So im assuming this is most of the problem lol
So after trying to break the "carbon" out of the port... I soon realized that it is actually jb weld or some sort of epoxy maybe... But at the same time it looks like some sort of metal...

So here is my question, i guess i have to buy a new egr, but my vacuum canister is also removed. So do i have to buy both to get the system to work or is there a way i can just delete the egr and mess with the timing to get rid of the pinging.... Im not sure what to do tbh... If you guys had to make the choice what would u guys do... I have no inspections to worry about or anything. I just want my engine to be healthy and reliable, preferably with less money. Thank in advance
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Thedonk
So after trying to break the "carbon" out of the port... I soon realized that it is actually jb weld or some sort of epoxy maybe... But at the same time it looks like some sort of metal...

So here is my question, i guess i have to buy a new egr, but my vacuum canister is also removed. So do i have to buy both to get the system to work or is there a way i can just delete the egr and mess with the timing to get rid of the pinging.... Im not sure what to do tbh... If you guys had to make the choice what would u guys do... I have no inspections to worry about or anything. I just want my engine to be healthy and reliable, preferably with less money. Thank in advance
Sorry bout all the posts... So now i know that the egr has been like this for AT LEAST the last year ive had it. I dont think it is causing the stalling. What sensors should i check?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 08:06 AM
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Does the pintle move if you apply vacuum?

Did the gasket look intact when you took the valve off?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 08:24 AM
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Ignore the Egr, I've never had one on my fords that worked and I block em all off anyway, nothin but a headache to me, and it really doesn't offer as much benefit as people think. What's the truck were working on? I'd test the IAC and the Tps first and take it from there and work your way across all of them. Does it only stall when driving it and gassing it? Or all the time
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 08:29 AM
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And if you're getting pinging you may want to check your timing and maybe throw some fuel additive in it. I've never known an egr valve to cause pinging on an older vehicle.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Does the pintle move if you apply vacuum?

Did the gasket look intact when you took the valve off?
I didnt have a way to apply vacuum so idk
No gasket lol just jb weld
 
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