Boring a 5.4L...
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Colorado
Boring a 5.4L...
Is it possible? I love my truck and I'm thinking that when the engine goes, I'm either going to completely replace it, or bore the block i have. A few questions are, 1) I know the plugs like to get hammered out of these heads, so would bigger pistons blow them right out? 2) If indeed that was a problem, do they make aftermarket heads (Trick Flows or something) for this engine? 3) I know the 5.4 makes more hp than the old 460...is there a motor that is more cost effective (but still quality) to swap in? I've heard that the diesel swap isn't QUITE as difficult as it might seem, but is there a gasser engine that would require less harness work and produce more HP and lb/ft of torque?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
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From: Stillwater, OK
by boring, are you talking cleanup boring (.020" - .040") because that's not going to get you any more power... just fresh bores.
If you're talking about adding something like .250 to the bores, IF there is room you might be able to bore it out and wet sleeve... but even if it is possible, that would be too much work.
if you're trying to get more power out of it, and have the money, a stroker crankshaft is the way to go.
If you're talking about adding something like .250 to the bores, IF there is room you might be able to bore it out and wet sleeve... but even if it is possible, that would be too much work.
if you're trying to get more power out of it, and have the money, a stroker crankshaft is the way to go.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
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From: Stillwater, OK
There are too many other variables to be able to answer that question... piston profile, rod length, chamber shape (if new heads are used), cam profile (if custom is selected)... and these days you'll even have to get a custom tuning for the new engine.
all other things being equal, more displacement will mean more power...
stroking will actually get you more torque, which in turn will raise the horsepower.
all other things being equal, more displacement will mean more power...
stroking will actually get you more torque, which in turn will raise the horsepower.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
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From: Pa
I saw rebuild kits up to a .060" over. Unless the walls are real bad .020" or .030" over should clean everything up. You can get stroker cranks and different cams. If it were me I'd build a stout motor with the stock displacement and go with a forced induction setup. You can be limited powerwise with the stock intake setup if you keep it NA. Just adding 6 or 7 lbs of boost on a stock 5.4l will add some healthy power.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
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From: Stillwater, OK
as far as boring for displacement, the only way to do it is to sleeve.
cylinder walls are only slightly thicker than they have to be. I'm more familiar with the internals of older GM V8s, but some things are pretty common from one engine to the next. .060 is about the limit of boring to keep enough strenght in the cylinders so they don't open into the water jacket. I've seen engines go .080 over before... but the shop I worked for would not warranty anything past .060
To get significantly bigger bores, you have to completely cut away the cylinder wall as it exists and stick in a wider cylidner, then bore the sleeve to fit your pistons... doing this you run the risk of dropping a sleeve which, in my opinion, is not worth it...
cylinder walls are only slightly thicker than they have to be. I'm more familiar with the internals of older GM V8s, but some things are pretty common from one engine to the next. .060 is about the limit of boring to keep enough strenght in the cylinders so they don't open into the water jacket. I've seen engines go .080 over before... but the shop I worked for would not warranty anything past .060
To get significantly bigger bores, you have to completely cut away the cylinder wall as it exists and stick in a wider cylidner, then bore the sleeve to fit your pistons... doing this you run the risk of dropping a sleeve which, in my opinion, is not worth it...
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Colorado
Yeah i've heard some pretty sketchy things about boring over especially with a DD...turbos are sweet but i get kind of worried thinking about adding one to an engine that didn't come with one stock. What about a v10 conversion? Or another engine that would give me some ***** without chopping up the harness too badly? That 260 hp is just not cutting it...
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: SoCal
V10: The 5.4 is part of the Modular engine family --> the 6.8 V10 is technically the 5.4 V8 + 2 more cylinders --> thus making the 6.8 V10 a bolt-in replacement for the 5.4 V8. I would think the only difference would be the mechanical fan/shroud set up. I'd bet even the the accesories (alt/PS/AC) would bolt to a V10.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Middleville, MI
if you're counting a diesel swap out (which, diesel + swap = cummins 12v in my book), look into a lightning swap. there is a fair amount of work, but someone on another ford forum did it (i think he may be on here too actually)..... but later swapped -that- out for a cummins.
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Senior User
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From: Colorado
V10: The 5.4 is part of the Modular engine family --> the 6.8 V10 is technically the 5.4 V8 + 2 more cylinders --> thus making the 6.8 V10 a bolt-in replacement for the 5.4 V8. I would think the only difference would be the mechanical fan/shroud set up. I'd bet even the the accesories (alt/PS/AC) would bolt to a V10.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: SoCal
--> Yes, without a doubt.
--> I'm unsure, but I would think you need the V10 ECM and engine wiring harness, soley because of the fuel injectors for the two extra cylinders. But it should be plug-&-play.
--> I'm unsure, but I would think you need the V10 ECM and engine wiring harness, soley because of the fuel injectors for the two extra cylinders. But it should be plug-&-play.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
You will need the pcm from the 6.8l vehicle. There really isn't much difference at all between the 5.4l and 6.8l SDs of similar year. I'd get an 03' or 04' 2V 6.8l if you can find one.
Since you have the 2V 5.4l, supercharger parts will fit from the Gen 2 lightning. I see your from Colorado, if you drive a lot in higher altitudes forced induction would help a lot over a N/A setup.
What gears do you have in your truck? If you got 3.73s that is part of the problem.
Since you have the 2V 5.4l, supercharger parts will fit from the Gen 2 lightning. I see your from Colorado, if you drive a lot in higher altitudes forced induction would help a lot over a N/A setup.
What gears do you have in your truck? If you got 3.73s that is part of the problem.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Colorado
If the 3.73 is the stock gearing than that's what it is. It hasn't really been messed with in the way of aftermarket. Of course if i added the lightning's supercharger, i'd have to get my ECU tuned, but would the heads handle it ok?? Also what internals would need to be changed out if any? What gearing would be good? I still want to be able to tow if necessary.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,449
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From: South Jersey
i have a issue of ford performance truck mag and there is a company that makes 5.4 for the lighting, since they are the same as ours they make stock 5.4 and bigger 6.2 liter models. if my motor every goes ill see what the cost will be if not im going to redo a v10 and swap that in
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
The V10 swap is probably the easiest.
What are you going to use the truck for? If it's for towing or hauling, go with the V10 because it will work and work and work, and put out more low-end torque.
What are you going to use the truck for? If it's for towing or hauling, go with the V10 because it will work and work and work, and put out more low-end torque.