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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #1  
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glow plugs??

this morning for the first time since i owned the 02, it did not start. it would crank , and one time it fired on 3-4 cylinders, but died rite away. the glow plug light did its normal 30 second or so cycle, but no fire. it would however pour white unburnt fuel smoke out the tail pipe.
does this sound like the glow plug controller took a dump, or does it sound like all the glow plugs died at the same time?

i finally got it started after i plugged it in for 3 hours.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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Check your GPR (glow plug relay) Tom. Should see 12v on one large post at all times. The other large post should show 12v (or around there) for up to 2 min. after the key is turned on.

If the GPR is dead, short the 2 large posts together with a screwdriver for about 30 seconds then try to start. That will energize the glow plugs and get you running. The odds of all 8 glow plugs dying at once is slim to none.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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if the GPR is bad, will the WTS light on the dash still come on??
cause it still comes on like normal.

when i got the truck, the GPR was hit and miss, and when it was not working properly, it would only flash on for 2-3 seconds.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
if the GPR is bad, will the WTS light on the dash still come on??
cause it still comes on like normal.

when i got the truck, the GPR was hit and miss, and when it was not working properly, it would only flash on for 2-3 seconds.
The wait to start light isn't related to the GPR, what you need is a GPR LED so you can tell when it is energized.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
The wait to start light isn't related to the GPR, what you need is a GPR LED so you can tell when it is energized.
alrighty then.
i will go and test the relay.









if i didn't know any better, i would almost think someone was trying to drum up some LED sales.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Tom,
Hope you're kidding about the LED light sales.......less than $2 at Radio Shack.
It is a good visual indication of the on/off condition of the GPR, expecially during the cold months.
Once you have the parts, light, wiring and fuse, it is approx. an hour's worth of valuable work that will provide peace of mind down the road.
It does sound like your glow plugs are not working for some reason.
Good luck,
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
The wait to start light isn't related to the GPR, what you need is a GPR LED so you can tell when it is energized.
...or a Volt meter -- your battery voltage will be in the 11V area when the GPs are activated, then jump to 13ish when off. If it's really cold, the batts might only come up to the 12V range. The point is, you'll see the voltage drop & come up if the GPs are energizing correctly. I need to make a vid of that happening one of these days.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lhud
Tom,
Hope you're kidding about the LED light sales...,
yes, i was teasing Clay, since i gave him over $400 last week for truck goodies.


i tested the GPR, and had 12 volts on one side key off, and 12 volts key on both sides.. so i guess it just stuck shut this morning.

i will know for sure tomorrow morning whether it is bad or not.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #9  
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well, the truck is officially sick. i tried to start it yesterday afternoon, and i had to crank it 4 glow plug light cycle times to start. today, it will not start at all.

i guess it is now a lawn ornament until it gets above freezing so i can get into it.

and it is not the fuel heater, because if i give it a whiff of WD 40, it will start and run.

so it is either a tempermental GPR, or something bigger.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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Mine had the same problem. I ended up replacing the wiring harnesses under the valve covers, the glow plugs and the rocker cover gaskets. Mine starts great in cold weather now.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the Under Valve Cover Harness connectors (UVCH). If you have a multimeter you can OHM out the injectors and plugs. It's a pain in the *** to get those valve covers off, but you can get a lot of prevention maintenance done if you do. I'm not saying that is it, but it's a shot in the dark. Here is a good link with more info:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html

The GPR LED Mod sounds like a good one. Testimony here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-big-time.html

What would REALLY help us help you is anymore symptoms you can give us and especially codes. If you don't have AE, ask someone in your chapter if they do. An autoshop local to my area would drive out to pull codes for $30.

The truck will tell you what's wrong with it, ya just gotta speak it's language.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 04:30 AM
  #12  
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no codes, no problems. the truck ran and started fine until sunday morning when i tried to start it when it was 10º outside.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 05:22 AM
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You should also check your voltage while cranking. If it's dropping off to much from the starter draw, it's not going to start even though it is spinning.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by zx250
You should also check your voltage while cranking. If it's dropping off to much from the starter draw, it's not going to start even though it is spinning.
that is planned to check. i am going to put the batteries on charge for at least 24 hours before i do any testing.

but starter current draw is on the list of things to test.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #15  
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I know you said you had 12 volts on both sides key on. What is more important then 12 volts on each side, is after the whole number. If you have 12.9 on one side, and 12.0 on the other, your losing .9 of a volt accross the solenoid. This number you want to be as little as possible. Either way, when you first turn the key on, and your checking this, if the GPR is working, you should be in the 11.2-11.7 range when its that cold, if your batteries are good. Mine is starting to dip down to 10.5, and come back up to 11 volts (when I start it) Battery season is coming for me. The reason it should drop down into the 11 volt range, is the gpr system when working properly draws inexcess of about 80 amps, and when the batteries are cold, they are not as good at making current. Thats why there is a Cold Cranking amp rating, and a Cranking amp rating. Cranking amp rating is higher. So try your test again with the volt meter, and try to give us a little more specific voltages. That will help alot.
 
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