Hard starts when cold, p1211
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Hard starts when cold, p1211
Have a 1999 superduty f350 7.3l has 165000 miles on her and is starting to give me a little hell when cold starting in the morning. Has to crank way to long maybe twice as long or more than it used to a month ago. then it turns over and sputters for a second or two then hits idle rpm and is fine. lets out one big cloud of gray and some black during all this. When warm starts and runs great no problems. when plugged in starts fine and just replaced the glow plug relay a week ago. has p1211 on the computer. unplugged the IPR sensor next to the fuel bowl and started it and made no difference still started rough. Just need more ideas before i go and spend more money on stuff i may not need.
Thanks for reading
Brandon
Thanks for reading
Brandon
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
If you plug in the block heater and it starts just fine, then you have a problem with the glow plug system. Either the relay you got happens to be faulty, or you've got some bad glow plugs. Test the new GPR, and ohm out the glow plugs to see what the problem is.
As for the P1211, do you have a chip or tuner?
As for the P1211, do you have a chip or tuner?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
Since it's chipped, I wouldn't worry too much about the P1211. It's common to throw that code with a chip.
As for testing the GPR and glow plugs. If you look at the GPR, you have two large posts on top. One is always hot, the other post has power when the glow plugs are to be activated. Wait until the engine is nice and cold, and hook up a multimeter to check for voltage as someone else turns the key. If you get the same voltage on the other end of the post, the GPR is working fine. If not, you have a bad GPR. Depending on temps, the GPR will be active for a few seconds or as long as 2 minutes.
For the glow plugs, if you look on the injector harness on each side leading under the valve covers, you can probe the outer two wires to ohm out the glow plugs. Looking at the harness, it's like this:
(G)(G)(I)(I)(I)(I)(G)(G)
Where (G) is the glow plug, and (I) is the injector. Glow plugs that are good should ohm 0.8-1.2. Once you start getting to 1.7 and higher, it's probably starting to go bad. If it ohm's really high, it's toast.
As for testing the GPR and glow plugs. If you look at the GPR, you have two large posts on top. One is always hot, the other post has power when the glow plugs are to be activated. Wait until the engine is nice and cold, and hook up a multimeter to check for voltage as someone else turns the key. If you get the same voltage on the other end of the post, the GPR is working fine. If not, you have a bad GPR. Depending on temps, the GPR will be active for a few seconds or as long as 2 minutes.
For the glow plugs, if you look on the injector harness on each side leading under the valve covers, you can probe the outer two wires to ohm out the glow plugs. Looking at the harness, it's like this:
(G)(G)(I)(I)(I)(I)(G)(G)
Where (G) is the glow plug, and (I) is the injector. Glow plugs that are good should ohm 0.8-1.2. Once you start getting to 1.7 and higher, it's probably starting to go bad. If it ohm's really high, it's toast.
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