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I have gone through 2 egr coolers in the past 2 years and now suspect another failure. I've thought about doing a complete delete but I still have warranty for another 7 months and don't plan on keeping the truck that long.
Is it possible to pull the egr cooler and weld both ends shut and reinstall or will this have some adverse effects?
If you were keeping the truck we have a package that we offer for about 6000 that includes the EGR Delete, New Oil Cooler, Machined Heads, ARP Headstuds, Injector Flush and Reflash. It a bit pricey but its done right and become a nice truck like it was intended to be.
If you were keeping the truck we have a package that we offer for about 6000 that includes the EGR Delete, New Oil Cooler, Machined Heads, ARP Headstuds, Injector Flush and Reflash. It a bit pricey but its done right and become a nice truck like it was intended to be.
Thanks Dave but I will be moving on to a 6.4l or possibly the new 6.7l when it is available. I just want to rectify this egr cooler for the least amount of time and money. I work in the oilfield so my truck can't have alot of down time and its hard to shcedule dealer visits because I never know when and how long i'll be home. Nevermind I've had it in twice now for the tea kettle whistle and coolant residue on top of the resevoir with the dealer finding nothing wrong.
I have a freeze plug welded into the input side of my and have had no problems. the system looks and works normally but no exhaust flow. 040 f250 03 late engine. Here in nj they are talking about inspections of the epa stuff on the diesel trucks so having the system intact is a good thing. So far no noticeable changes to the engine without the flow and no codes being set. Next project when it warms up will be emptying the cat. I also installed a coolant filter.
Did they replace your oil cooler also? A coolant filter sounds like a good fix to your issues.
Yes when removed the coolant passages were just about completely clogged with casting sand. $2500 later with a new oil cooler and new egr cooler (old one pressure tested good but not taking any chances). Symptoms were puking under load and engine fan running when under load. There was a 25 deg difference between the oil temp and coolant temp. The high oil temp was what was telling the computer to engage the fan,. This was all about 6000 or so miles ago and all is well. Went through NJ inspection clean but I don't think that they are looking too hard yet.
Thanks Dave but I will be moving on to a 6.4l or possibly the new 6.7l when it is available. I just want to rectify this egr cooler for the least amount of time and money. I work in the oilfield so my truck can't have alot of down time and its hard to shcedule dealer visits because I never know when and how long i'll be home. Nevermind I've had it in twice now for the tea kettle whistle and coolant residue on top of the resevoir with the dealer finding nothing wrong.
PS - Dave I love my BD short throw shifter
Oil field trucks have a hard life... any information you can give on Positive Air Shut Off's. I know its off topic, maybe you can PM me. We are having troubles confirming how mandatory they really are. We just released one and are having troubles getting straight answers. Thanks
Oil field trucks have a hard life... any information you can give on Positive Air Shut Off's. I know its off topic, maybe you can PM me. We are having troubles confirming how mandatory they really are. We just released one and are having troubles getting straight answers. Thanks
I've only done one job where I was required to have one and nobody checked to make sure it was there. I'd imagine Ft. McMurry would be a little more strict on it though.
Now back to my problem. I have a blown egr cooler and want to pull it out and weld both ends shut. Will this work or is there other issues?
I've only done one job where I was required to have one and nobody checked to make sure it was there. I'd imagine Ft. McMurry would be a little more strict on it though.
Now back to my problem. I have a blown egr cooler and want to pull it out and weld both ends shut. Will this work or is there other issues?
If you have a blown EGR cooler you will have to replace it. Even if you weld both exhaust gas flow ends shut you will still have a coolant leak. Or maybe not. I guess the exhaust gas chamber would eventually fill with coolant but that would probably not be good.
Anyway, after I installed the studs, I verified my exhaust in the coolant problem went away with a Combustion Gas Analyzer Kit. But I still had minor puking. So I rebuilt the oil cooler and pressed a 1.375" freeze plug into the EGR cooler exhaust gas inlet. I have the early build ROUND EGR cooler. Not sure what size freeze plug the later build square EGR cooler would take. Maybe the same one. That is the cheapest and easiest way to stop exhaust gas flow through the EGR cooler and still keep the EGR components in place. It costs you your time, turbo/EGR cooler gasket kit and a freeze plug. Cured my post stud install puking problem.
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