Hi everybody! I'm brand new to the forum. I just bought a 66 F100 with a I6 300, 3 on the tree. I am having shifter problems. I'm not able to shift into 2nd or 3rd gear. It doesn't grind, It just doesn't go. I took the linckages off and noticed that to shift into neutral I have to pull almost all the way down to first. It is actually about an inch up from the bottom. What part determines where the shifter moves from controlling the R & 1st paddle to the 2nd and 3rd gear paddle. I think that may be my problem. I don't think it is completely shifting the 1st gear shifter arm into neutral before trying to shift into second. I could be wrong. Are there any 3 on the tree experts out there? Thanks!!

 

Hi, I am also new to the forum. I just bought a 1962 F100 6cyl 3on3. I love my truck I have a smilar problem. My tranny works fine but when I put on the first gear it grinds alot. I wonder whey and how I can fix it. Everything else works perfect.

 

well one thing I do know is that 1st gear in these old trucks does not have a sencronizer. You have to come to a complete stop to put it into first. Is that what you are refering to?

 

Well...one thing I do know is...this statement is in-correct.

It's only true for 1962 and earlier trucks / 1963/66 F350's.

ALL: 1963/66 F100/250's / 1967/72 F100/350's / 1973/86 F100/150's came with the Ford Type 3.03 3 Speed Manual ALL SYNCROMESH Transmission.

If 1st gear is grinding with the Type 3.03 3 Speed, the 1st gear's syncronizer brass blocker ring (there's only one) is worn.
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IF the shift lever is binding up between 1st & 2nd gear, this is a very common problem on these trucks.

At the bottom of the steering column under the hood are the two manual control selector levers the shift rods from the trans attach to.

In each one of these levers is a rubber bushing and insulator.

What happens: The rubber bushings harden up, then crack apart, causing the shift lever to bind up between 1st and 2nd gear.

C5TZ7343A .. Bushing & Insulator Kit / This kit does both levers / Ford just obsoleted this kit, but there are 100's around at FoMoCo dealers, obsolete parts vendors.

Fits: 1965/72 F100/350 / 1973/77 F100/150 (1961/64 is not the same kit).

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has 1 = 817-275-2381.

TIPTON FORD in Nacodoches TX has 2 = 936-564-7337.

SEWELL FORD in Odessa TX has 2 = 432-498-0421.

GRIESEL MOTOR CO. in Okarche OK has 3 = 405-263-7242.

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 8 = 800-816-2894.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 15 = 800-543-4959.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 34 = 888-727-0418.

 

And the cabs sag creating stress on the column and rods. Look at the rubber pucks and metal mounts. Causes all kinds of binding.

Garbz

 

Thanks for correcting my misiformation Numberdummy. I was told that by another Ford truck owner. I also appreciate the good info on the bushings and all of the numbers!! How do you do it?? I notice you help out many people on this forum. We are lucky to have such a good resource. Thanks again.

 

 

I don't now if this helps, but it is impossible to shift into first in my truck when its moving. It grinds and i don't even try any farther than that. Third gear you have to know where it is, if you don't it grinds.

 

wow you guys are awesome, thanks for the detailed responses. I will look into it asap. My tranny grinds on the reverse too but the 2nd and 3rd flawless.

It seems like 3on3 is not the best choice for me on a busy city (new orleans) for my daily driver. I like it on the column but i would rather have a newer auto tranny c4 or a c6. Since I am new at these subjects, my truck has a 6cyl 223 what kind and year tranny would fit on my engine and how can i use it as a colunm shifter?

Thanks for all your help in advance.

 

When it hangs, lift the hood and ****** the arm closest to the fire wall upward to free it up.

Slightly pull the shifter towards the steering wheel lifting it out of 1st. let it fall completely in neutral towards the dash,
and with a very slight pull back again lift it into 2nd.

See if that helps until you can get new bushings in.




John

 

Thanks for all of the help guys.

 

I have the column out of my truck as part of a total restoration and just finished rebuilding it.
My buddy who has been a mechanic for about 40 years said that when he had problems with the column shifters he just would go to a junkyard and get a whole new column, but they are not to bad to rebuild.
Each shift lever at the bottom of the column has a small notch in them that lines up with a "tooth" on the shift tube on the inside of the column. The teeth on my tube were rounded off and the notches in the arms were opened up from wear. It didn't seem real bad at first but a 1/4 inch at the tube is 3/4 inch travel at the bushing point. The plastic bushing on mine was also cracked and partly missing. A little wear at each point adds up to a lot at the point where the shift rods connect. My trucks shifter did not lock up, but it never felt as if it had a positive shift into each gear.
All the parts are available as a kit and is not really a bad job to do, and those bushings are not easy to install on the bench, so they would be tough to do in the truck.
I also replaced the "rag joint" coupler from the steering box to the bottom of the steering shaft. The splines in the coupler at the steering box end were almost gone, not good...
Good luck, Doug

 

ok ozborcek, i have a 61 f-100 and just like your's first gear grinds a lot...and i'm almost positive it is an unsynchronized trans... that should be your problem it just doesn't make sense for a 61 to have a synchronized trans and a 62 to be unsynchronized...ok as far as transmissions go the only thing you could do to keep your 3 on the tree is to find a synchronized trans close to the same year and it should go in with no problem or if you wanted an automatic or 5 speed even there is a website that will be your best friend F ... they have both new bell housings and adapter plates to do exactly what you want to do! hope this helps!

 

Thanks for the information. I just got it checked to a mechanic, he says i need a steering box, no synchronize, and brake job. Now I started to think if I can find a front and rear end from a earlier truck with the tranny and swap it. I dont know which model or what to look for?

I just found a 1970 390 FE engine with c6 tranny (currently i have 223 6cyl with 3 on three) is this a good choice for a swap?

 

Open your peepers and read Post #4 again, kiddo. I never said diddly-squat about 1961/62's having an all syncromesh 3 speed manual trans.

1948/52 F1/F2's & 1953/62 F100/250's used the Warner Light Duty 3 speed transmission. It does not have 1st gear syncromesh.

In 1963, Ford introduced the Type 3.03 3 Speed Manual ALL SYNCROMESH transmission in F100/250's, Galaxies and V8 Fairlanes/Falcons/Comets/Meteors.

1967: ALL F100/350's, Econolines and Bronco's used this 3 speed transmission, as well as 200 I-6 and ALL V8 Passenger Cars.

Nothing lasts forever, these trucks are 44+ years old, so...

If 1st gear is grinding with the Type 3.03 all syncro trans, the 1st gear brass syncronizer blocker ring is worn.