No power, won't start...help!
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Terre Haute, IN
No power, won't start...help!
Just got an 86 F250 with the 6.9L and a 4 speed. P.O. had the pump turned all the way up so last night i turned it down some (4 flats, which turned out to be one too many). The truck was hard to start after that (normal?) but i got it started. Drove 5 miles to my parents house and left it running while i went in and when i cam outside 5 minutes later, the truck wasn't running and no lights were on (i left them on).
I know i have a bad fuel leak at the access plate, I need to get another gasket to seal that, but my big problem is the lack of electrical power. I know the batteries are fully charged. The brake lights and my manual glow plug relay work great. There is no other power in the cab. No lights, radio, key switch does nothing...
Sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much detail as i can.
Can anyone help me?
I know i have a bad fuel leak at the access plate, I need to get another gasket to seal that, but my big problem is the lack of electrical power. I know the batteries are fully charged. The brake lights and my manual glow plug relay work great. There is no other power in the cab. No lights, radio, key switch does nothing...
Sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much detail as i can.
Can anyone help me?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ole-truck.html Have a read through this thread. A lot of it will apply to your `86.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Terre Haute, IN
Well, i don't know what i did but i have power back... The connector in the picture has already been bypassed. I checked all of my fusible links with a test light (only thing i have at the moment) and they were all good. Somewhere in the process i did something and got my power back... I hope it stays like that...
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Under hood wires I always solder, then use liquid tape to seal out moisture, they use shrink wrap tubing over that followed by more liquid tape to seal the ends of the shrink wrap.
Takes a bit longer to fix a problem, but you only have to fix it once.
Takes a bit longer to fix a problem, but you only have to fix it once.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Terre Haute, IN
Thanks Dave, I'll do that.
'Nother thing now... When cold my truck is always real hard to start. I have the glow plugs wired up through a starter relay (only thing i had at the time) and switched in the cab. I burn it for 10 seconds and the truck just cranks and cranks, doesn't ever try to start. I checked the plugs with a test light and it showed 7 good ones, i pulled the wire off the 8th to hopefully not damage it further.
Usually the only way i can get it to start is with a lot of cranking and a shot of ether, and that is with the truck plugged in for over 8 hours.
Did i trash the glow plugs wiring it the way i did and now they don't work? What else could be the problem?
I'm getting white smoke (fuel i'm assuming) from the exhaust after about 3-5 seconds of cranking, so i don't think i have a fuel leak.
Thanks in advance for any help figuring this out...
'Nother thing now... When cold my truck is always real hard to start. I have the glow plugs wired up through a starter relay (only thing i had at the time) and switched in the cab. I burn it for 10 seconds and the truck just cranks and cranks, doesn't ever try to start. I checked the plugs with a test light and it showed 7 good ones, i pulled the wire off the 8th to hopefully not damage it further.
Usually the only way i can get it to start is with a lot of cranking and a shot of ether, and that is with the truck plugged in for over 8 hours.
Did i trash the glow plugs wiring it the way i did and now they don't work? What else could be the problem?
I'm getting white smoke (fuel i'm assuming) from the exhaust after about 3-5 seconds of cranking, so i don't think i have a fuel leak.
Thanks in advance for any help figuring this out...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
White smoke after cranking 3-5 seconds sounds like you are getting fuel, just not enough cranking speed and heat for it to light off.
If the block heater is working, you should not need glow plugs unless we are talking well below zero for ambient temps.
I am leaning toward the starter may not be cranking fast enough.
If the block heater is working, you should not need glow plugs unless we are talking well below zero for ambient temps.
I am leaning toward the starter may not be cranking fast enough.
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Posting Guru
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From: Terre Haute, IN
As far as i know the glow plugs are getting power. It feels like they have no effect on how the truck starts. I have to give it a shot of ether to get it running.
Another thing, I was driving down the highway and all of the sudden my truck just shut off. Wouldn't even try to re-start. The fuel gauge was right at 1/4. Does this sound like the pick-up broke off and i'm out of fuel? Or something more serious?
Also, the timing marks on my pump are misaligned. Should i rotate the pump to match the marks, and could this be causing my cold start problem?
Another thing, I was driving down the highway and all of the sudden my truck just shut off. Wouldn't even try to re-start. The fuel gauge was right at 1/4. Does this sound like the pick-up broke off and i'm out of fuel? Or something more serious?
Also, the timing marks on my pump are misaligned. Should i rotate the pump to match the marks, and could this be causing my cold start problem?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Marks should be inline or the IP mark slightly to the passenger side of the mark on the cover.
That is retarded timing where it is set now, and could make it start harder.
Normally the timing advance solenoid advances the timing about 1.5 degrees more with an engine temp below 112 degrees.
My first move would be put the IP mark that far on the other side of the drive gear cover mark.
You want a rattle while the timing advance solenoid is on.
Rattle gone when the timing advance turns off.
Adjust the IP with the engine off, retighten the mounting nuts before you start the engine.
Repeat the process until you have rattle cold that goes way when the timing advance solenoid has no power.
Timing advance solenoid, rear electrical connector drivers side.
You can use a jumper from the battery positive post to the IP terminal after you remove the stock harness connector to energize the solenoid, then remove the jumper to turn the timing advance off.
Much faster that way that waiting for the coolant to heat or cool to repeat the above steps.
That is retarded timing where it is set now, and could make it start harder.
Normally the timing advance solenoid advances the timing about 1.5 degrees more with an engine temp below 112 degrees.
My first move would be put the IP mark that far on the other side of the drive gear cover mark.
You want a rattle while the timing advance solenoid is on.
Rattle gone when the timing advance turns off.
Adjust the IP with the engine off, retighten the mounting nuts before you start the engine.
Repeat the process until you have rattle cold that goes way when the timing advance solenoid has no power.
Timing advance solenoid, rear electrical connector drivers side.
You can use a jumper from the battery positive post to the IP terminal after you remove the stock harness connector to energize the solenoid, then remove the jumper to turn the timing advance off.
Much faster that way that waiting for the coolant to heat or cool to repeat the above steps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
It sounds like your pickup tube broke off. I would check and make sure the filter is full.
If you are haveing to use either and your starter is spinning fast enough and your getting white smoke out of the exhaust it doesn't sound like your glow plugs are working.
If you are haveing to use either and your starter is spinning fast enough and your getting white smoke out of the exhaust it doesn't sound like your glow plugs are working.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
On the question of harder starting after turning down the fuel, that is true. I've played around with mine and noticed that too. I've heard some tell me that its impossible and that the pump doesn't work that way, but based on my first hand experience, it seems to be confirmed at least to SOME degree. Fuel pressure adjustments also have a slight effect on timing map from what I understand.
Try feathering the throttle to find the spot where the truck responds best during a cold start event. Some fire off at idle, others like it half or WOT. See what works for you.
If the problem persists, I would suggest maybe turning it back up by half a flat.
Try feathering the throttle to find the spot where the truck responds best during a cold start event. Some fire off at idle, others like it half or WOT. See what works for you.
If the problem persists, I would suggest maybe turning it back up by half a flat.