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The fuel gauge on my 78 f150 will not work at all anymore. It used to work everynow and then, but I replaced the sending unit in the tank to fix it and now it does not work at all.... My turck has dual tanks, but I only use the front, and I was wondering if the switch inside the truck to choose tanks would be a possible problem? Because the rear tank is always empty which is what my gauge reads. Any ideas? Thank you, Bobby
It's possible the switch is bad; it's also possible the frame cross-member has lost ground. Turn the ignition switch to accessory, pull the sending unit wire off the sending unit and ground it. The gauge should peg to FULL. If it doesn't, there's no power to the gauge, or there's no longer a ground back there.
im actually havin the same problem, i recently dropped my fuel tank, when i put it back in, no more fuel guage. i tried regrounding it to..nothing. Maybe try replacing the wiring harness that plugs into the sending unit, i think thats what im gonna do. they have them on broncograveyard.com for like 12 bucks.
im actually havin the same problem, i recently dropped my fuel tank, when i put it back in, no more fuel guage. i tried regrounding it to..nothing. Maybe try replacing the wiring harness that plugs into the sending unit, i think thats what im gonna do. they have them on broncograveyard.com for like 12 bucks.
if you Re-Gounded it and had nothing then like posted you lost ground or you lost the positive wire on the dash.
you should be able to ground the wire that travels the frame to the sending unit. when you do that you should read over full on the gauge. if it isnt working try a real ground run a long wire from the negative of the battery, or a 100% known ground like a trailer hitch and test again. if still nothing then you have a bad meter or dash-console connection. your 5v regulator could be bad (but you should notice this with other gauges)
I have a separate issue, I am about to drop my tank because I think my float is sunk. it is reasonable to pull the sending unit and solder/repair the float so it floats on top again?
The sunken float is annoying. I pulled my tank to replace the factory sending unit because of a sunk float, only to have the replacement sink a week later. You can repair the float yourself; you can also replace the float entirely (without getting an entire sending unit). The float might even be available from Ford; if so I'd go that route.
I had to re-ground the sending unit to the bed sheetmetal to get it to work.
The sunken float is annoying. I pulled my tank to replace the factory sending unit because of a sunk float, only to have the replacement sink a week later. You can repair the float yourself; you can also replace the float entirely (without getting an entire sending unit). The float is available from Ford.
The float is made from two pieces of copper soldered together.
Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float slowly settles to the bottom of the tank.
COAZ9202B .. Fuel Sending Unit Float / Available from Ford.
Fits ALL: 1957/79 Passenger Cars, Trucks, Bronco's and Econolines.
It's possible but you have to find the leak and get 100% of the gas out of it or it could go BOOM!!!
or use the man's way and just light it on fire after about 20 min of evaporation anything left will burn off real quick (the float that is) LOL
only down side is if its vapor locked then you gotta re-solder it all back together after it pops like a firecracker ha!
but seriously, yes. I was going to drill a hole in it to clear it of all vapor then clean it with alcohol air dry for a day or so in the sun and problem solved then just solder it up.
i hooked up a test light up to the wire that goes onto the sending unit, and turned the key, and the test light kept flashing on and off rather than just staying on. what would this mean?
Thanks guys, Hopefully I'll get a chance to try this tommorow, I get to replace my master cylindr too now. I love these old trucks but man they kill the wallet quick.