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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #1  
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Clutch Preperation Thread

Okay.
I'm gonna be putting in a Kevlar/Ceramic Clutch and SMF from ValAir.

What I need to find out is all the other things I should be doing while I have that trans down, and any tips to pulling the flywheel and trans.

I know you should replace the up-pipes if they need replacing.
Does anyone know how the up pipes are on my 94? I hear people talking about doughnuts and whatever.
I am pretty sure I have a small leak. Should I just replace them?
Suggestions on replacement stuff?

Tools I might need for trans removal?
Neal says lots of extensions.
Anyone remember the bolt sizes?

Torque specs for the clutch and plate and yada yada (cody should know these without looking them up. haha)

Any tips on installing a clutch is helpful too.

If it was warmer out, i'd probably clean the trans off, but I dont feel like pushing the truck outa the garage once I get the trans out. Got a huge winch in there to get it back in, but I dont wanna mess with that.

Can I pull the trans without taking off the T-case also?
Or how hard is it to just slide the trans back and leave it on a jack stand or something?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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Anything I should do to the clutch before I put it in? Cleaning wise?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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clean the clutch and flywheel with brake clean to get the oil off it.

clean off any burrs on the shaft that the throwout rides on with some crokus cloth. Or replace it if it's deeply gouged.

grind the lip that faces the oil pan off of your clutch cover while it's off and seal up any groove on the oil pan that is already there from it.

grease your slip yokes while the shafts are down and replace the carrier bearing if you think it needs it. Also a good time to check all the u joints.

Get a neck brace. You might need it with that clutch. Mine is just the HD organic and it engages tons harder than the factory one ever did. It's manageable though. I think yours would scare me. I drive big trucks and tractors with that type of clutch all the time and just can['t imagine it in a light truck.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 11:25 AM
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dang it i don't remember those dang torque specs!!! haha. kevin will know and i know you just love bothering that kangaroo in the middle of the day. haha. just make sure the clutch buttons are all cleaned up and the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are clean when you put it all together. the flywheel is heavy as chit so be careful pulling it out. first one i pulled i dropped on my legs... haha

inspect the clutch fork where it slides onto the ball in the bell housing. i would put a new one in it now if you can whether yours is good or bad and make sure you put grease on the ball and on the fork where it slides on the ball. make sure the shaft the throwout bearing rides on is nice and smooth. if its not then you might as well plan on taking it to a tranny shop b/c if yours is like mine then you gotta replace it from the inside...

you can pull the tranny with the transfer case attached and you should be able to slide the tranny back and lower the tranny jack enough to get it all the way back by the rear diff if you have a low profile jack. might have trouble with it since you have the shift kit. you might consider pulling the spacer off from the shift kit and put rags in there to keep crap out of the tranny. i know its a pain to put it in b/c the shift tower hits the cab and everything and with that spacer it will be even worse...

that clutch will be nice. its pretty smooth considering it has ceramic on one side. you will enjoy it.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by RRranch
clean the clutch and flywheel with brake clean to get the oil off it.
clean off any burrs on the shaft that the throwout rides on with some crokus cloth. Or replace it if it's deeply gouged.
I've heard to clean it, and I've also seen people not clean it. Probably should clean it though. I want to make sure everyone agrees on this though, cause the clutch price and me having to replace it a second time will be irritating. =)
And, WTH is Crokus cloth?
I have to go harvest flowers to clean the shaft? haha.

Originally Posted by RRranch
grind the lip that faces the oil pan off of your clutch cover while it's off and seal up any groove on the oil pan that is already there from it.
You and your flywheel cover.
When you have the trans off, you can actually put it back together correctly with all 3 (or 4 can't remember) bolts.
I could only get them all in but the one thats up behidn the starter, and didn't want to remove the starter.
Mine isn't bent though. I've had mine out, and fixed it up and put it back. Its a high stress part, I JBwelded it, and the weld broke. I'll weld it with a real welder this time.

Originally Posted by RRranch
grease your slip yokes while the shafts are down and replace the carrier bearing if you think it needs it. Also a good time to check all the u joints.
I have a 94, slip yoke with no carrier, carriers were on the bigger T-case. U-joints are a given anytime you have a driveshaft out.

Originally Posted by RRranch
Get a neck brace. You might need it with that clutch. Mine is just the HD organic and it engages tons harder than the factory one ever did. It's manageable though. I think yours would scare me. I drive big trucks and tractors with that type of clutch all the time and just can't imagine it in a light truck.
I fixed your typo for the quote.
Anyways, I drive a lot of tractors, so I tend to ride a clutch like a tractor clutch. A lot. haha.
So all I have to say is. SISSY! :P

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
dang it i don't remember those dang torque specs!!! haha. kevin will know and i know you just love bothering that kangaroo in the middle of the day. haha. just make sure the clutch buttons are all cleaned up and the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are clean when you put it all together. the flywheel is heavy as chit so be careful pulling it out. first one i pulled i dropped on my legs... haha
Yea, I was really worried about this personally. I was hoping to find a good way to get it down, maybe a jack?

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
inspect the clutch fork where it slides onto the ball in the bell housing. i would put a new one in it now if you can whether yours is good or bad and make sure you put grease on the ball and on the fork where it slides on the ball. make sure the shaft the throwout bearing rides on is nice and smooth. if its not then you might as well plan on taking it to a tranny shop b/c if yours is like mine then you gotta replace it from the inside...
I emailed cody about buying one of his that he had sitting around. I think I might added in "i'll contact you when I need it" which mighta been a bad idea, cause I dont know if that was a Yes or No.
If it is good or bad, I was going to replace it anyways.
I wish I knew a good reliable trans shop that doesn't rip you off. To have them drop my tranny and steal my clutch would **** me off. Them suckers will do that here in michigan.
really all new to me. I wish I could get my hands on the parts and look at everything while its off the truck. I would understand it much better.

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
you can pull the tranny with the transfer case attached and you should be able to slide the tranny back and lower the tranny jack enough to get it all the way back by the rear diff if you have a low profile jack. might have trouble with it since you have the shift kit. you might consider pulling the spacer off from the shift kit and put rags in there to keep crap out of the tranny. i know its a pain to put it in b/c the shift tower hits the cab and everything and with that spacer it will be even worse...
No tranny jack. I'm sure I can weld something up. If i have to drop it to the floor, no big deal. but i figured with the cross member on there, it would stab easier because i woudln't be fighting the t-case.
I guess i can jack it back up and put in the cross member before I stab it.

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
that clutch will be nice. its pretty smooth considering it has ceramic on one side. you will enjoy it.
Yea, I chose the Kev/Ceramic due to the extra slip you initially get but the ceramic hookup.
It will be plenty for all the mods that I will ever do to this truck. Only bigger the I'm ever goign to do is oil and turbo. So, i'm good with this rating of a clutch.


BTW, RRanch, (damn i wish you'd post your name)
Your clutch should get better once it breaks in, they never work quite right at first.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #6  
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i might want a for real tranny jack for this one. that tranny is a few hundred pounds by itself and then add in the transfer case and you will be handling probably around 300lbs or close to it if i was to guess. its not light and if you go get a low profile tranny jack you can just lower it to the floor and roll it back then roll it back up, jack it up and go. don't put the crossmember in til the tranny is stabbed. go find a dang tranny jack. borrow, rent, buy, whatever you gotta do. go to ford and get a fork. they aren't too terribly bad when you consider what happens if yours is bad.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 12:09 PM
  #7  
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I might live in the former motor city capitol, but the parts here in michigan from ford dealers are much higher then elsewhere.
Just an FYI.
=)

I'll have to call and ask him if he has a tranny jack.

Gonna do it at my normal place unless TJ gonna help me with the lift. =)
(which i doubt, but i asked anyways)
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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You really do want a tranny jack. It sucks without one trying to get it lined up and not boogering the pilot.

Get some red locktight and use it on all the bolts for the flywheel, pressure plate and bellhousing. It will help make sure everything stays where you put it.

Crokus cloth is very find sand paper that comes in a roll, usually about an inch wide. It's used for polishing stuff like that shaft. You can debur the input shaft end too with it.
My name is Dan.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #9  
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Oh, Emery cloth. =) I got a whole roll! haha.

No uppipe info yet?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #10  
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Oh, Emery cloth. =) I got a whole roll! haha.

No uppipe info yet?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #11  
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come on up pipe info!

*rolls dice*
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 09:01 AM
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come on up pipe info!

*rolls dice*
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #13  
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Yes on the uppipe gaskets. I got mine from Ford for around $22.00 or was it $11.00 or was that a piece? Heck I can't remember but it was cheap.
You may not need new uppipes if they don't leak now but definately do the uppipe gaskets. I have heard they are the same ones that chevy used on their 350cid V-8's.

I have done my clutch twice with the T-case still on and with only one helper. It is best to use two jacks. The second one can be one of those cheap jobbies. Put the good one under the tranny at or near the drain plug. Puth the other one under the t-case but do not put much lift on the t-case. Basically you just want that jack there in case you loose control of it so it won't twist off the big jack.

Good luck.



P.S. might want to think about getting some new bolts for the uppipes too in case one breaks.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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Well. I've seen some talk on here about some of the older ones not having gaskets. so thats what I was trying to figure out.

how much are up pipes? Maybe I should just get some up pipes?

Anyone have a relative time on a clutch instalation too?
Gotta plan my day.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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did my last one in about 3 or 4 hours minus the BSing. depends on how much you BS...
 
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