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putting back together a 5.0L - everything except the heads, which are already torqued down .. just a 'routine rebuild' question .. I have a rubber, one piece oil pan gasket that I know should go on dry, but do I use sealant on ALL paper type gaskets?
I use RTV on waterpump , timing cover ect , on the intake i use the copper spray on the intake to head gaskets , & RVT on the front & rear intake valley gaskets , make sure you put a nice bead on them ....Lew
.. RTV on the front & rear intake valley gaskets , make sure you put a nice bead on them ....Lew
The front and rear lower manifold gaskets are rubber (FelPro MS94951, I don't recall them being rubber when disassembling), I know I need to seal the 'corners', where they meet the side gaskets, but I didn't think sealant is recommended for rubber gaskets.
what's the diff between RTV and regular permatex #2 "form a gasket sealant", and the 'high tack' stuff for that matter?
hate to be a nuisance, but would like to get it right the first time ..
Not sure what the diference is between RVT & # 2 form a gasket is , they both should work , some people don't even use the rubber or cork gasket just RVT....Lew
I usually use Red Permatex for waterpumps, intakes, timing covers, etc. Has worked very well on my '95 truck (over 70K+ miles) a 5.0 Mustang engine that I built a few years ago, various Volkswagens, and friend's stuff.
When I resealed the 351W on the '84 truck a few weekends ago, I used Ultra Black Permatex on everything because the engine is a supreme piece of junk. Ultra Black is supposed to have maximum oil resistance and pretty strong adhesion. So far, it has held up pretty well, sealing up a motor with a lot of blow-by and that was leaking out of every orifice.
Also - I replaced the oil pan gasket on my '95 with a one-piece rubber one years ago, but I cant remember if i used any silicone sealant or not. Do the instructions say not to? Whatever I did has worked for about 40-50K miles, so I would probably recommend following whatever came with the seal.
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