Dropping oil psi ... #2
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
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From: Near Los Angeles
Dropping oil psi ... #2
Hey guys--
I feel sick writing this. I've been driving my second rebuilt 300 for only about 4 days. Today when I got off the freeway, I had 7.5 psi at idle.
I don't know what to do. It is just not possible, but yet, there the problem is. Two different rebuilders, two blocks with the same head, same pushrods, same new hv pump.
I guess everything has been said and done, and again I'm left without an explanation.
I feel sick writing this. I've been driving my second rebuilt 300 for only about 4 days. Today when I got off the freeway, I had 7.5 psi at idle.
I don't know what to do. It is just not possible, but yet, there the problem is. Two different rebuilders, two blocks with the same head, same pushrods, same new hv pump.
I guess everything has been said and done, and again I'm left without an explanation.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
From: LaGrande,Ore
Again!??
Check out my reply to your other post about this if you have'nt already. No disrespect is intended here, but this problem came with you (not personaly) with the move. Just an example of what can happen; good friend that had built several engines and assisted in others did'nt put in the galley soft plugs (3) in the front of a che^%$y v6. ran ok just had 0 oil pressure. Best advice; step back, turn around and yell at the wall, take deeeeeep breath and re,re,recheck every little tiny thing. one step at a time. cheepest first, etc. PS it's ok to stomp your feet if you want. Best of luck OBCB
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
If it were me, and I'm glad it's not, I'd verify with another gauge first. Then change the oil pump. New doesn't alway's mean its good. You can probably tear that thing down in your sleep by now. I agree, it has to be something following you from engine to engine.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
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From: In my own world
ok. got your pm this morning, and lucky you, I'm off today. I went into the garage, and got a old oil pressure guage, and hooked it up to my 86, stock, with 110,000 miles. cold, fast idle, 45, running 60mph 40, idle at stop light 20, and here's the kicker, when I jambed into it comeing around the ramp off the interstate, and stopped at the end..... 10. it recovered back to 20. I have a feeling, that the oil level comeing around the ramp changes, and it might just suck a little air. bending the pickup tube down may stop this, but this truck is stock. quite possible is nature of the beast. one think I know, I will definately slow down on the ramps from now on. hope this helps
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Do you bolt your manual guage tube right to the block?
On my 300 I notice there are two plugs that go into the oil galley; they are just below the lifter cover. I have my tube screwed into the rear one, where the OE sending unit was located. Is that the correct location?
Regarding guage: When the first engine pressure started dropping I bought a new Auto Meter guage and installed it. I got the same reading as the first. I am going to install the first guage on the block and see if there is a difference.
Oil pumps: The first engine originally had a new melling pump that came with the kit. When psi started dropping I swapped it to a Melling hv pump. That is what the new engine has.
On my 300 I notice there are two plugs that go into the oil galley; they are just below the lifter cover. I have my tube screwed into the rear one, where the OE sending unit was located. Is that the correct location?
Regarding guage: When the first engine pressure started dropping I bought a new Auto Meter guage and installed it. I got the same reading as the first. I am going to install the first guage on the block and see if there is a difference.
Oil pumps: The first engine originally had a new melling pump that came with the kit. When psi started dropping I swapped it to a Melling hv pump. That is what the new engine has.
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FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
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From: In my own world
Do you bolt your manual guage tube right to the block?
On my 300 I notice there are two plugs that go into the oil galley; they are just below the lifter cover. I have my tube screwed into the rear one, where the OE sending unit was located. Is that the correct location?
Regarding guage: When the first engine pressure started dropping I bought a new Auto Meter guage and installed it. I got the same reading as the first. I am going to install the first guage on the block and see if there is a difference.
Oil pumps: The first engine originally had a new melling pump that came with the kit. When psi started dropping I swapped it to a Melling hv pump. That is what the new engine has.
On my 300 I notice there are two plugs that go into the oil galley; they are just below the lifter cover. I have my tube screwed into the rear one, where the OE sending unit was located. Is that the correct location?
Regarding guage: When the first engine pressure started dropping I bought a new Auto Meter guage and installed it. I got the same reading as the first. I am going to install the first guage on the block and see if there is a difference.
Oil pumps: The first engine originally had a new melling pump that came with the kit. When psi started dropping I swapped it to a Melling hv pump. That is what the new engine has.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 480
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From: Hudson,Michigan
I'm really sorry to be hearing that you are having problems.I would be real curious to know what temperature that oil is when your coming off the freeway.I may be just pulling straws,but at this stage,it's going to be something strange or something you thought was good and isn't.I know that the hotter that oil gets the thinner it gets.Can you imagine the idle oil pressure if you had WD40 in it?This may not be your problem,but I wouldn't rest until I found out how hot the oil is getting.What is your engine temperature?,maybe try a little cooler thermostat ?I wish you the best in finding out what is up.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 708
Likes: 1
I would pull the original oil pump apart (the one not in your engine currently) and make sure the gears and pump body are not scored and measure the gap between the gears and pump body and make sure that's in spec. Then I would pull the HV pump out of the engine and pull it apart and make sure that small clearance between the gear faces and the pump body is in spec. If it's too large it's possible it's causing the problem. Then I would decide which pump is in the best condition and put that one back in. If the gear/pump body clearance is too big by 10 or 15 thousandths I bet that could create the problem you describe once the oil is hot.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 708
Likes: 1
Oil Pump Restoration ? How to repair
I found this, unfortunately there are no specs and I'm not sure what they should be.
I found this, unfortunately there are no specs and I'm not sure what they should be.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
THANKS, GUYS!
I know you are all trying to help, and I sincerely appreciate it. I just NEVER thought this would be happening in the first place...and absolutely not the second time. I spared no expense, did everything possible to make sure it would not happen. You've given me some good leads to think about.
And hey, I have a spare engine to tinker with.
Buster: When I was doing research on this build, I read a lot of the tech stuff on Classic inlines. They always recommended to go with a modified oil pan for cooling if the build was to be past a certain point. Of course that was for small block inlines, but I'm sure it would be helpful for bb longevity too. Temp is definately something to consider.
My builder wants to put a shim, .012 like the guy with the F. town flyer says, in the pump spring, to boost the psi 10 pounds. That is not just top end either, but at idle too. But for me I want to find out why it is low, to understand why the resistance is low.
I know you are all trying to help, and I sincerely appreciate it. I just NEVER thought this would be happening in the first place...and absolutely not the second time. I spared no expense, did everything possible to make sure it would not happen. You've given me some good leads to think about.
And hey, I have a spare engine to tinker with.
Buster: When I was doing research on this build, I read a lot of the tech stuff on Classic inlines. They always recommended to go with a modified oil pan for cooling if the build was to be past a certain point. Of course that was for small block inlines, but I'm sure it would be helpful for bb longevity too. Temp is definately something to consider.
My builder wants to put a shim, .012 like the guy with the F. town flyer says, in the pump spring, to boost the psi 10 pounds. That is not just top end either, but at idle too. But for me I want to find out why it is low, to understand why the resistance is low.