Hey did you run BB cheby rockers? Isd the oil hole in the rocker or pushrod larger then a stock ford rocker?

An idea but not a very good one.

 

Hey, Flip--

rockers and p.rods are oe. Thanks.

I'm tired of racking my ... brain about this engine. I am going to R&R the timing gears which knock, bleed the guage, install another one on block, change filter and oil and lifters, and forget about the ... thang.

Thanks for your help.

 

Sorry to hear you've reached this point,but man did you ever give it a good fight. I hope what is left to do (your list) is a magic wand, and cures the ills. Just curious, I've heard of the timing gears whining/howling but not knocking. Any comments? OBCB






PS look me up and chat if you like.

 

steel gears on my I6 knock, and whine. sounds like a rod. really aggrevateing sometimes

 

It seems to be a fairly common problem. There are two guys, three including myself, on this forum who have had it happen with completely new steel gears.

At this point I just have to get this ... engine out of my head for a while. I spent more than a year studying about it, and even paid professional builders (twice) to make sure there would not be a problem. It has cost me a ton of time, cash, and work, and now I have 1/2 the oil psi that the old tired 390 had! And the "mechanics" just scratch their head and say, 'that shouldn't happen.'

After I make the changes it will be livable. Once I change to the 15/40 that will bump the psi a bit to maybe 12. Maybe the filter change will bump it a tad as well; who knows? In the future I may shim the spring.


Thanks for all the help, guys, but unless someone comes up with some startling info about the problem, I'm Done talking about it.

Thanks.

 

I'll keep bumping it around in my head. I have a 300 efi to tear down for a rebuild, mabe the solution will be there. I hope.

 

Dusty dude--

Can you recommend a make of timing gears for my replacements? Also, you don't suppose it is end play making that knock, do you?

Hell, I just thought about something that you have been telling me to do forever. When I built the engine and went to spin the pump with a drill, I could just barely get oil out of the rockers. I thought it was engine assembly lube in the works, but now I think I need to do the test again and confirm it is not a weak (polishing compound worn) pump. I need to do that.

Thanks, Kevin.

 

when I change mine, I'm going to put the fiber gears back. I have a truck here with 480,000 miles on it, origional gears still in it.end play is what the problem is, but no adjustment. the fiber gear has some "play" in it, guess it moves some, you just don't hear it.pull the valve cover off, put some snap on wooden cloths pins on the oiler end of the rocker arms, and fire it up.normal should pretty much bathe the hood with the cloths pins off. when I pull down the efi motor, I'm going to check how the cam bearings are placed before I remove them, I really think your problem is from there up, or the oil is not returning fast enough, and she's sucking air, and running the crank dry. what ever it is, it's in the parts you used off the 1st motor. how far off the pan does the pick up screen sit? I had a problem with 1 of those on a small block ford 1 time, also had another pickup tube with a pin hole on the weld at the oil pump 1 time, was sucking a small amount of air. all stupid stuff, but worth mentioning. sorry all this is happening. when I was your age, I probably would have torched the truck by now, so you get an A for being patiant.call me on my cell if you want to bump ideas around. hopefully it's something so simple, we will all say oh crap. I knew that, duhhhh. blond moment

 

one other thought, I usually pack the oil pump with stp when I put it on new, it helps prime it when you turn it over with the drill

 

Did you use the same camshaft for both engine? Out of spec journal????
Too much clearance on one of the cam journals would cause the symptoms you describe.

 

Hey guys--

I decided to change the break in oil a bit early--at 400 miles rather than 500. I also changed from a Motorcraft filter to a Napa Gold, which is made by Wix for Napa.

Amazing difference: I went with 15/40. I just couldn't bring myself to put in Mobil 1 15/50 like my mechanic friend said to use. This is S. Cal., so it just doesn't get below 50 fahrenheit much. Anyway, around town stopped at a light, idling in gear, I have 16-18 psi. That probably means that coming off the freeway, stopped idling in gear, I'll have 13.5-16.5, which is fine.

I understand that a higher v. oil is treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem, but I'm choosing to leave well enough alone. I'm still going to r&r the pump, and probably change the lifters when I change the timing gears too. Yeah, between the clattering lifters and the knocking timing gears, it sounds like a flaming big rig, and it drives me batty.

After hearing that bronco here with the new exhaust system, Magnaflow 50's series, I believe, I have to have one!!

Thanks, one and all.

Kevin.

 

Happy travels. Glad she is where you want her.

 

I imagine that is what happened with the first engine. During assembly we had a problem with alignment of one of the journals, and had to 'sand' one of the installed bearings just to get the cam in. That engine just continued to slowly drop psi until I replaced it only 4 months after installation.

With this new engine I used a new cam stick. Only the pump and head were reused.

 

Oil psi is leveled out. I was freaked out when I saw engine #2 psi going down as #1 did. But an engine will always lose some of its psi after running a bit.

After the oil/filter change, I have about 16-18 psi when hot, idling in gear, and that is great.

Today I pulled the v. cover and had great oil flow over the valve train. I also installed a second oil gauge on the engine, at the forward plug in the main oil galley. That one reads 5 psi higher than the one in the cab!! And I find that very reassuring.

Soon I will replace the clattering non pump up lifters with Isky lifters.

 

The difference in the pressure may be due to inacuracies in the gauge or the volume of air contained in the line from the engine to the cab gauge.

Air is compressible oil is not. What is your idle RPM?