I don't think I have a cracked head or block. A note in the '49-'51 Ford F-Series Shop Manual says that it is "important the gasket be installed properly. If installed improperly coolant will leak at the left rear corner of the engine, between the head and the block." It further states that the gasket should be installed with the "cut off corner" at the left front corner of the block. Unfortunately, the aftermarket gasket that I bought did not have a "cut off" corner. The gasket had no markings to indicate top/bottom, front/back, etc. I matched all the holes in the gasket with the holes in the block and feel that I installed it correctly but it is still leaking. I screwed some "headless" headbolts into the block and used them to align the the gasket on the block and then gently placed the head on the block using the studs to correctly align the head. I feel certain that no damage was done to the gasket during installation. If the leaking doesn't stop I guess I'll have to remove the head again and change the way the gasket is installed.

 

Mr. Walker, did you receive my email (PM) on the one possible manifold source I spotted with Hemmings? I am wondering too if your coolant leak issue has been resolved. Keep up posted, please.

 

I received your email and immediately replied to it. When I got it, I had already found a manifold and ordered it. It's still not here yet, so nothing to add about that yet. The coolant leak is all but stopped, but not 100%. Still a tiny seepage. I pulled the head bolts and put anti-sieze compound on the theads. That helped a lot. I didn't realize that the bolts extended down into the water jacket until I pulled one out with coolant still in the radiator and engine and it came shooting out of the hole. I may have to put some pipe dope on the threads if the leak doesn't stop. I'm hoping that after a few cycles of heating and cooling the gasket will seat better and the leak will stop. My next project on the truck will be to tackle the brakes which are totally non-existant. I've already purchased kits for the master cylinder and the front wheel cylinders. Bought new rear wheel cylinders. Also have new rubber gaskets for the windshield and the rear window. Getting that fixed Monday.

 

Something is up that I am not getting PM. Glad to hear you found the manifold. Did you get a 'new' one (not likely) from a vendor or were you able to find a used one from someone on the FTE? It looked like it was going to be difficult to find one, especially one in decent shape. I thought the $130 price on the Hemmings ad was expensive, but it may have been for something new and "custom" for a more common application than for your big truck. Good luck on your brake job. Keep us posted.

 

I bought a used one. It cost me $200.00 but that includes shipping to Texas from Minnesota. It's being pulled off an F-6 with the 254 engine. That's what I have, so it should fit perfectly. Wish it would hurry and get here. I'm tired of listening to all the loud engine noise.

 

Greetings,

Sort of stumbled onto this discussion while searching for information on a head swap. I've been through this whole process with my 51 F-6 with a 254M. My engine was turning over freely but wouldn't fire up when I first purchased the truck. A neighbor came by and suggested dropping some oil in each spark plug hole. I put about a teaspoon in each cylinder and replaced the plugs. The first attempt to start was a jolt and stall. The second and it lit right up. The cylinders were so dry there was no compression. You can have spark and fuel but with no compression there's no fire! Once the engine was running the oil began to puke from between the block and head. The exhaust was firing out of the manifold where the cracks were. I found a used exhaust manifold. Can't believe the price has doubled in two years. Mine was $100. While I waited for the manifold I took the head into my local machine shop and had it planed. I didn't see any mention of this process in this thread. Most of these trucks were used and abused until they died of overheating which results in a cracked exhaust manifold and a warped head. It's not something you can see with the naked eye. You can torque it till the cows come home and you'll never have a perfect seal.

I suppose it's too late now but you can purchase head gaskets, complete gasket sets or for that matter, complete engine rebuild kits for the 226 and 254 on eBay any day of the week for very reasonable prices. Don aka Falconglobal is the guy to deal with from my experience.

Best of luck!

Corey

 

I'm still getting a very minor leak around the gasket. I'll probably pull the head again and take it to the machine shop. I found a used manifold too, but haven't got it installed yet. The old engine runs smooth as silk and starts immediately when you bump the start button. Sure will be better to get it quited down with the manifold and a muffler.