grandson has a 79 f100 which he just called and said we need to put a new clutch in. Neather of us have ever done this. Is this a big job, how long for a couple of inexperienced shade tree mech's, any tips---

 

This is not too bad a job, but to do it right you need to have a little knowledge. It would be good if you could find a good description or have some coaching from someone that's done a few, to do a proper installation.
Some tips would be:
The new clutch must be absolutely clean, one fingerprint of grease on the clutch or flywheel surface can make the clutch chatter.
Inspect the flywheel carefully for heat cracks and scratches. I always take mine to an automotive machine shop and have it resurfaced even if it looks perfect.
Always replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing.
If oil is leaking out of rear of engine (rear main seal) or the snout of transmission. Stop there and fix the oil leakage or you will ruin the new clutch.
Make sure the throwout fork is hooked into the throwout bearing correctly before assembly.
and never force anything, if it wont go with some mild persuasion, Stop...

 

It's a fairly big job for a first timer. Might take a day, might take a week. I would suggest you talk to somebody who has experience with clutches before diving in, if at all possible. Or at least get a manual to help you, You could also try looking in the "clutch, tranny, etc forum, you will probably find some good info there. Basically, you have to remove the transmission and bellhousing to get at the clutch. This requires the removal of the drive shaft, shifter or linkage, (depending on if it is a floor or column shift),clutch linkage,starter, speedo cable,maybe a crossmember or exhaust, if they're in the way.
Tips: use a transmission jack. (rent one if you don't have access to one), it will save you a lot of hassel.
While you have it apart, replace the pilot bushing, pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw out bearing at the same time. Also check the flywheel for " checking", cracks, grooves worn into it, etc., and the ring gear for worn or broken teeth, and have it resurfaced or replaced if needed It sucks to have to take it all apart again because you decided to save a few bucks the first time around. Since it is an F100, I'm assuming it is a 2wd. If it's a 4wd, you can add more drive shafts and a transfer case & shifter. Good luck and have fun!

EDIT: looks like 4x4Bart was faster than me. All good points.

 

You guys can do it, no sweat! :)

I've done it by myself a bunch of times.
Help is cool and can be fun but I also enjoy going at my own pace too. :)

Here's a couple pictures using my engine hoist for the first time...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg (parts truck)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg
The son-of-a-gun is worth it's cost IMO. YMMV

I've pulled the T18 on my '75 about every 20k miles since it was new.
I figure I know what its problem is finally tho. :/ The bell housing was
crooked on the engine from the factory. I've got a dial indicator now
and will check it next time I take it apart.

Point is, I've done it with blocks and boards by myself a bunch of times. :)
The first time was '79 and I made these...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
They are six inch long 7/16" course thread bolts with the heads cut off.
Thought about shortening one a half inch or so, just haven't done it.

Here's one in action Nov 2009, 30 years later...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepin.jpg
I took that picture to show where the "transmission" stopped.
I pushed it -easy as anything- up to there, with my foot. :)
You need to know, when everything is lined up -right- it wants to just
slide right in. No forcing or pulling it into place with bolts or any of that
business. :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist8m.jpg
The rear chain was moved to that spot "halfassed" because to put a
transmission -in- the rear chain can run into the sheet metal at the rear
of the hatch. :/

My first time using a hoist to put a transmission -in- see? LOL :)
But in it went tho... :)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist7m.jpg

My favorite method involves pulling the transmission -then- the bell
housing. A T18 only weighs about 150 pounds so it's no big deal.
The cast iron bell housing weighs 32 pounds.

The aluminum ZF, bell housing and all, weighs only about 145 pounds.

With the T18 resting on the guide-pins at the front and the rear resting
on its un-bolted crossmember it will slide back and forth like its on rails! :)
Got that? ;)

------------------

Also mark/scratch your drive line in case the slip joint comes loose but
baling wire it together anyway and pull the whole works out if you want.
I do.

You guys are gonna be stoked you did this yourselves. LOL :)

This was meant to just be an overview of the mechanics of getting it out
and back in. "that's my specialty :)" -Bill Paxton, Predator2

Alvin in AZ
ps- My homemade tool to pull the bronze oil-lite pilot bearing...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/bushing&remover.jpg
7/16" fine thread bolt and a nut ground to fit through the hole sideways.
pps- While I was typing all that out, two other guys have posted. LOL :)

 

bart.rick,alvin------thanks for the words of encouragement.tips and pics----u are the reason we love this forum=thanks again

 

>Here's one in action Nov 2009, 30 years later...
>http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepin.jpg
>I took that picture to show where the "transmission" stopped.

...I should have said "bell housing" there because what stopped it from
going home was the "dowels" on the engine are kinda tight.

About 15 years ago or so I figured out the guide pins were handy when
pulling the transmission out too. The input shaft gets babied that way,
see? ;)

More pictures of the parts truck...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100-FEbell.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100-T18.jpg

There's a different style than this one...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/clutchfork.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/clutchpivot.jpg

---------------------

I replaced the rubber bumper with this to limit how high the clutch pedal
would come up...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/clutchlever.jpg
...and screwed a 1/2" thick hunk of conveyor belt to the floor under the
carpet so I could mash it to the floor like I meant business. ;)
That limited the throw see?
An improvement IMO, I believe the throw was "too much" and hard on
the pressure plate for no good reason.

I was beating the crap out of a bronze pilot bearing starting at about
2000 miles and basically couldn't drive it past 20,000! The bell housing
not lining up right causes that. :/ The sucker is all original, I bought it
-new- and have been the only one that's worked on that pickup.

So last time I "bit down hard" and did -nothing- to the clutch, flywheel
or anything, that was friggin tough you know it? LOL :) I just swapped
out the wallered out bronze bearing with a 6303 ball bearing.

That clutch (and flywheel resurfacing etc) now has ~40k and the 6303
bearing has ~20k and feels like the old setup with ~1k. :)

----------------------

I put the pickup up on 8x 8x 16" cement blocks and boards nice and
solid and pull the seat and carpet out too. A pro-mechanic hasn't got
time for that silly stuff so their methods are different than mine. ;)

I take the opportunity to run a vacuum cleaner (with a beater head)
over the carpet and stuff like that while I'm at it.

-----------------------

Jimbo, please describe the symptoms he's having. :)
How many miles did the old clutch go?
What engine and transmission has he got?
Etc. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

What tranny does it have 3 spd easy you dont even need a jack.
A four spd is way easier with a jack but can be done without it (but you need to be pretty stout).
If you have a floor jack and a place to roll it on (a sheet of plywood will do) they are not hard to do even for someone who has never done it.
Like mentioned above replace clutch, pressure plate,throwout bearing and pilot bearing or bushing. Most new clutch kits come with everything except the pilot bearing.
Also new kits sometimes come with a plastic alignment tool if yours get one of the generic tools they are cheap and work. The clutch plate has to be aligned with the pilot or you will not be able to stab the tranny back in.

 

alvin, starmilt -truck is an original with really no add on parts, it is a 6 cy that he bought about a year ago from the family that had bought it new. I think theres around 110k on it. not sure of the clutch failure syptoms but i'll talk to his dad and find out. It's a three speed on the column. we didn't get any old maint records with it so no sure if any work was done in this area. again thanks for the help

 

Jimbo, before you pull the clutch, is your grandson sure the clutch is bad? I have saved many a slipping clutch by adjusting it properly. If he has the proper free play in the clutch pedal and it still slips while driving, it will need replacing. Free play is the basicly about 1/2-3/4 inch slack\movement in the clutch pedal from the released position until you feel presure on the pedal when it is depresed.