hydraulic clutch
New User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
hydraulic clutch
Are there any tricks to bleeding a hydraulic clutch on a '59 F100(w/65 352)? I just put in new slave and rebuilt the master and I cant seem to get it to work. Also are there any alternatives to the hydraulic system? Thanks for any help.
Travis
Travis
Senior User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Campbell U S A
hydraulic clutch
These basics would apply to any hydralic clutch system...
1. Bleed the master cylinder before installing it into the vehicle. "Bench Bleeding" is the easiest way to ensure you have the chambers of the master Cylinder filled with oil. I cover the exit ports of the master with my finger(s) and actuate the pistons back and forth until I get a stream of oil from the ports. You can feel the vaccuum and pressure build up during this process. Use a rag over your hand and a pan under the master so you don't get oil all over the place. It's low tech, but it's worked well for me so far.
2. After you have the master in and all the lines hooked up, you can start to bleed the rest of the system. Have a trusted helper (I had my daughter help me when she was 7), press down the clutch pedal and hold it there. Don't pump the clutch and then hold as you really can't build up much pressure like the brakes will. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and let whatever comes out, come out. Close the bleeder. Let up on the clutch. Repeat as necessary until a steady, clean stream of hydralic fluid comes out of the slave bleeder. Be sure to watch the reserviour level and keep it up so the master isn't pumped dry. To reduce the clean up and prevent getting hydralic fluid on the surrounding paint or other stuff, use a lfexible clear tube over the end of the slave bleeder valve and direct the fluid into a suitable container.
DO NOT REUSE THE HYDRALIC FLUID THAT YOU GET OUT OF THE SYSTEM WHILE DOING THIS. IT'S FULL OF DIRT AND WILL CONTAMINATE ANY HYDRALIC FLUID IT MIXES WITH.
If you haven't bench bled the master, good luck. Without the proper equipment that job is a real pain in the <PG13>.
Craig D.
1. Bleed the master cylinder before installing it into the vehicle. "Bench Bleeding" is the easiest way to ensure you have the chambers of the master Cylinder filled with oil. I cover the exit ports of the master with my finger(s) and actuate the pistons back and forth until I get a stream of oil from the ports. You can feel the vaccuum and pressure build up during this process. Use a rag over your hand and a pan under the master so you don't get oil all over the place. It's low tech, but it's worked well for me so far.
2. After you have the master in and all the lines hooked up, you can start to bleed the rest of the system. Have a trusted helper (I had my daughter help me when she was 7), press down the clutch pedal and hold it there. Don't pump the clutch and then hold as you really can't build up much pressure like the brakes will. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and let whatever comes out, come out. Close the bleeder. Let up on the clutch. Repeat as necessary until a steady, clean stream of hydralic fluid comes out of the slave bleeder. Be sure to watch the reserviour level and keep it up so the master isn't pumped dry. To reduce the clean up and prevent getting hydralic fluid on the surrounding paint or other stuff, use a lfexible clear tube over the end of the slave bleeder valve and direct the fluid into a suitable container.
DO NOT REUSE THE HYDRALIC FLUID THAT YOU GET OUT OF THE SYSTEM WHILE DOING THIS. IT'S FULL OF DIRT AND WILL CONTAMINATE ANY HYDRALIC FLUID IT MIXES WITH.
If you haven't bench bled the master, good luck. Without the proper equipment that job is a real pain in the <PG13>.
Craig D.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
