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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

4x4 conversion finished!

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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 07:10 AM
  #31  
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From: Brandon, MB
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I wouldn't bother putting in a 50. If you're going to go to that much trouble, put in the 60. Much more worth while. You can stay with the coils. I don't recall all that's involved with doing it. You need a clampish kinda thing like on the F150 to bolt the axle up to the radias arms. I didn't really want to raise it either, but there's going to be some lift no matter how you do it. You could get a shorter version of the sky RSK fabbed up to minimize lift, I suppose.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by joe_13894
I'm just interested in everything that must be done up front to get that D60 in. I don't want to raise it any farther than I have to. I carry a large truck camper and raised isn't a good thing for highway driving. I have debated the idea of putting a D50 TTB up there and keeping the coil springs... I'm just not sure that's a good idea from the perspective of how much weight transfer can occur with the camper on.

As far as the transfer case: I got a divorced case off of a '76 F250. I'm going to hang that behind the transmission with a short intermediate drive line so I don't have to mess with converting an automatic transmission over.
I guess in theory, if you were set on keeping the coils, you could use a 1/2 ton ttb front that used coils from the factory and then upgrade the hubs/lockouts to the light duty (mid to late 80s I think) 8 lug d44, but then you would need aftermarket adapters to go dually. But I think I would just do leaf springs and a D60 if it were me, but thats just my opinion

Justin
 
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:04 AM
  #33  
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From: Brandon, MB
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Actually, you could make an adapter to clamp the solid axle to the radius arms still on the 2wd chassis. You would HAVE to put the stabilizer bar from the solid axle on and likely the anti-sway bar as well for lateral support. Just thinking out loud. Wasn't sure, so I went with the leafs.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:41 AM
  #34  
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From: Brandon, MB
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Just got a call from the machine shop. They said my drive shaft can't be balanced. The welder that shortened it, didn't do it right. It'll need the tube replaced. Nuts. Oh well, it'll still be done by the end of the day.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:20 PM
  #35  
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Dave, that is bad news and good news at the same time. Keep us posted on the outcome of this. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Fullcrew7.3
I wouldn't bother putting in a 50. If you're going to go to that much trouble, put in the 60. Much more worth while. You can stay with the coils. I don't recall all that's involved with doing it. You need a clampish kinda thing like on the F150 to bolt the axle up to the radias arms.
Just hooking radius arms to a solid axle isn't going to work. Part of the geometry of the D44 or D50 TTB relies on those center pivots. Without the center pivots the axle can swing side to side even with a track bar. Look what's under late model sooperdoodies for an idea as to what is involved in a solid axle with coil springs. That would be WAY too much work.


Originally Posted by TNScrambler
I guess in theory, if you were set on keeping the coils, you could use a 1/2 ton ttb front that used coils from the factory and then upgrade the hubs/lockouts to the light duty (mid to late 80s I think) 8 lug d44, but then you would need aftermarket adapters to go dually.
A D44? no, it would never support a powerstroke. People like to compare a D50 to a D44, but line up the parts. The D50 is a lot closer to the D60 than people give it credit for.

But I've noticed that D60's are getting cheaper with the downturn so I'm really leaning that way.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 07:10 AM
  #37  
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Good point Joe. Good thing I didn't try!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 08:00 AM
  #38  
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Looks great! Do you have pics of the entire install and modifications? I'm wanting to do the same to mine...
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #39  
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Congrats Fullcrew7.3 on getting it done. Like to see the pics.
 
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