I read somewhere that when you advance the timing on a 390 that its useless and may cause damage to go beyond 5 degrees more than stock timing. But Ive always heard that its better to advance it as much as you can without having starter lag or spark knock. Which way is best and if the 5 degree thing is right, then why? Thanks.

 

> I read somewhere that when you
>advance the timing on a 390
>that its useless and may cause
>damage to go beyond 5 degrees
>more than stock timing. But Ive
>always heard that its better to
>advance it as much as you
>can without having starter lag or
>spark knock. Which way is best
>and if the 5 degree thing
>is right, then why? Thanks.

I`ve never heard of the 5deg thing you speak of.
I`ve had my Initial timing to 16 deg, Yes hard starting!! but dammage NO.... 10-12 deg no problem starting hot or cold..
But i`ve only had this thing for 8 yrs.
Spark knock thats a No No!! anytime....




__JOHN__Õ¿ö
72 F-250

 

There is a reference to advancing timing by a maximum of 5 degrees in the Ford Service Specification Books under engine timing. I have a copy of the information from the 1967 book posted on my web page.

<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

Thanks `Stockman`... i see the reference to the 5deg there(your page)... I guess if things arn`t better by 5deg then something else should be done...


__JOHN__Õ¿ö
72 F-250

 

So which way should I time it for the best performance?

 

The books all suggest an initial timing. Your actual timing may vary depending on how your engine is set-up and type of driving you do. For most stock engines the initial timing works fine. I have heard that using a vacuum gauge is a great way to dial in the timing. I'm not very familiar with the process as I have never tried it myself, but I throw it out here for what it's worth. Vacuum gauges are also a great diagnostic tool for engine problems. Chilton's manuals have a section on this.


<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

 

Charles, the more you advance the better. As long as there is no preignition and it cranks strong then thats where you want it.

 

Today, I turned the crank to TDC on the balancer and pulled the distributor cap and the rotor is pointing dead on #5. What does this tell me? I know that someone will say that the balancer has spun, but arent they "keyed" on? Could the chain be worn or could there be an aftermarket cam in there?

 

Try giving the engine one more revolution at the crankshaft...That should point the rotor at # 1 TDC...Right now I think your motor is on its compression stroke for #1 cylinder but could also be on exhaust stroke....Not sure