Replacing the rear speakers in a 2010 Regular Cab
#1
#2
Yep, I just replaced the speakers in my 2010 reg cab. Here is how you do it:
1: Buy a hard plastic trim panel removal set. (harbor freight for $5)
2: Remove the step panel on the floor (says FORD and is covered by the door when closed)
3: Remove the Pop Tab from your first picture.
4: Remove the airbag panel from your last picture. There will be one screw inside it that you need to remove.
5: Remove the pull tab that allows you to move the seatbelt up and down. There will be a large star bit screw that you need to remove.
6: Go along the outside of the trim panel and start pulling straight out.
1: Buy a hard plastic trim panel removal set. (harbor freight for $5)
2: Remove the step panel on the floor (says FORD and is covered by the door when closed)
3: Remove the Pop Tab from your first picture.
4: Remove the airbag panel from your last picture. There will be one screw inside it that you need to remove.
5: Remove the pull tab that allows you to move the seatbelt up and down. There will be a large star bit screw that you need to remove.
6: Go along the outside of the trim panel and start pulling straight out.
#3
#4
I miss spoke, its not the tab that says pull, its the plastic piece below it. And yes, it will pull off.
#5
#6
Ok, here goes...
1. Remove the panel behind the door opener handle. Remove the bolt behind the panel.
I found this paint can opener to be the perfect tool. Just hook it and pull.
2. Remove the cap in the door handle pocket thing. Remove the bolt underneath.
3. Pry the window and lock control panel. Disconnect the electrics.
4. Remove two bolts along the bottom edge of the door trim. Pull up on the door trim. If you're doing the drivers side door and have power mirrors, disconnect the mirror adjustment **** electrics. The trim will still be held in by a cable that actuates the door latch. Rest the trim piece on a chair, or disconnect the cable.
5. Now that the speaker is accessible, remove four screws that hold the speaker in. Disconnect the connector behind it.
6. If you bought your speakers from Crutchfield.com, the include these factory compatible connectors. Attach them to the speaker and it's ready to hook up to the Ford connector.
7. Plug it in, do a quick test, then put everything back together. There was nothing special about reassembly, other than rotating the speaker so the connector is towards the front of the door. This keeps the speaker wire clear of the window glass lowering mechanism.
1. Remove the panel behind the door opener handle. Remove the bolt behind the panel.
I found this paint can opener to be the perfect tool. Just hook it and pull.
2. Remove the cap in the door handle pocket thing. Remove the bolt underneath.
3. Pry the window and lock control panel. Disconnect the electrics.
4. Remove two bolts along the bottom edge of the door trim. Pull up on the door trim. If you're doing the drivers side door and have power mirrors, disconnect the mirror adjustment **** electrics. The trim will still be held in by a cable that actuates the door latch. Rest the trim piece on a chair, or disconnect the cable.
5. Now that the speaker is accessible, remove four screws that hold the speaker in. Disconnect the connector behind it.
6. If you bought your speakers from Crutchfield.com, the include these factory compatible connectors. Attach them to the speaker and it's ready to hook up to the Ford connector.
7. Plug it in, do a quick test, then put everything back together. There was nothing special about reassembly, other than rotating the speaker so the connector is towards the front of the door. This keeps the speaker wire clear of the window glass lowering mechanism.
Last edited by propellerhead; 12-19-2010 at 05:08 PM. Reason: Added extra info in Step 7.
#7
On to the rear speakers... Remember this is for a regular cab.
1. Pry the door sill and remove it.
2. Pry off the cap to access the bolt holding the seat belt. Remove the bolt behind it. You'll need a Torx bit.
3. This thing that reads "AIRBAG", pry it off from the top. Remove the bolt behind it.
4. Remove the one and only trim pin.
5. At this point, you can start yanking the trim away from the body. Start at the top and work your way down until the speaker is accessible.
6. The speaker is attached to that spacer looking thing by four Torx screws. The screws are really soft so be careful not to strip the heads. There wasn't a lot of slack in the cable so don't just yank the speaker away from the spacer.
7. Fortunately, the wiring harness adds a little bit of cable length.
8. Alternatively, you can remove three bolts to detach the spacer & speaker together. This made it easier to replace the speaker since I did it outside the truck.
9. Give it a quick test and put everything back together again. That's all there is to it.
1. Pry the door sill and remove it.
2. Pry off the cap to access the bolt holding the seat belt. Remove the bolt behind it. You'll need a Torx bit.
3. This thing that reads "AIRBAG", pry it off from the top. Remove the bolt behind it.
4. Remove the one and only trim pin.
5. At this point, you can start yanking the trim away from the body. Start at the top and work your way down until the speaker is accessible.
6. The speaker is attached to that spacer looking thing by four Torx screws. The screws are really soft so be careful not to strip the heads. There wasn't a lot of slack in the cable so don't just yank the speaker away from the spacer.
7. Fortunately, the wiring harness adds a little bit of cable length.
8. Alternatively, you can remove three bolts to detach the spacer & speaker together. This made it easier to replace the speaker since I did it outside the truck.
9. Give it a quick test and put everything back together again. That's all there is to it.
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#10
Using the factory radio, I can't tell much difference when listening to FM or Sirius. I guess the quality is not there. When listening to music on a USB drive, the highs are crisper and the lows are more solid.
#13
#14
I want to personally thank propellerhead for putting in the time and effort to show us how to remove these rear panels on a regular cab F150. I just bought a brand new 2014 Tremor and was not too excited about the idea of breaking something in the process up upgrading my speakers and adding a sub with a line output converter off the rear speaker harness. Thank you so much!
#15
My thanks as well!!
Crutchfield doesn't show my 2011 Regular Cab as having rear speakers, so they were no help.
This set of instructions made it a piece of cake.
NOTE: that Torx screw holding the seatbelt on is a big sucker - takes a T-50 bit. Had to run to Menard's real quick to get one of those ... cost me $1.97 (probably could've gotten a whole set at Harbor Freight but they had just closed for the night).
Also broke the HF fiber trim removal tool while trying to remove the step plate - ended up using a regular metal pry bar for that.
This set of instructions made it a piece of cake.
NOTE: that Torx screw holding the seatbelt on is a big sucker - takes a T-50 bit. Had to run to Menard's real quick to get one of those ... cost me $1.97 (probably could've gotten a whole set at Harbor Freight but they had just closed for the night).
Also broke the HF fiber trim removal tool while trying to remove the step plate - ended up using a regular metal pry bar for that.