You guys crack me up with your electric fuel pumps. You take the simplicity out of these engines and just create more headaches. If you just repaired your initial problem you wouldn't need to mask it with an electric pump.
Let's face it your not putting that pump on for any performance gains because the mechanical flows more than enough fuel these engines can burn.
Some should just go back to basics, replace the $27 mechanical pump. Or replace the 20 year old injector o-rings and return lines. Seems majority fall into the same hole spending tons of time and 3 times the $ when you could of just repaired it to begin with instead of covering it with a band-aid.
All that aside I'll still read/post on the topic, it makes good reading.
OK, I'm done now. No offense to anyone just how I look at it.

 

i switched to electric because i heard the horror stories of the mech. pumps diaphram rupturing and puking fuel into the oil.thats why they are superior i didnt do it to band-aid anything i did it as a preventative measure so that pump failure wouldnt ruin the motor.but i am sure others have used it for the band-aid method but i all reality it is cheaper to put a return line kit on than it is to put in an electric pump.
oh and for the first 20,000 on my electric it was running with the stock filter setup.

 

i switched so i wouldn't have the priming issues.now when i change fuel filters i don't have to crank and crank (increasing starter life.)
i don't have to worry abut fuel ever going into the oil if the lift pump fails.
it must take at least 1 hp to spin the pump,so i gained this and freed up the engine,though maybe only a tiny bit.with other mods it all adds up.
mechanical lift pumps and fans where done away with because there's better technology now.
the switch is worth it i think.
i fixed all other problems before switching to the electric pump.

 

my engine runs out of fuel when i pass 4000 know why? cause my smoke is almost gone then and i have no smoke at 4500 and when i shift it puffs alittle white smoke hence means there is more air in the combustion chamber than there is fuel and oh yea im turned up over 2 flats and im still N/A

 

At 4-4500 your more than likely floating valves with those tired old valve springs. When you shift the rpm is coming down to an operable range for the springs to function and close the valve so the engine can build compression and light off the unburnt fuel in the cumbustion cups and cylinders, hence the puff of smoke you see.
If you have a good IP you'll have all the fuel you'll need with a mechanical pump.

 

my ip is brand new along with me injectors, floating the valves is a good possibility i need some better springs and keepers that way i could end that problem

 

Going from memory the stock lift pump delivers about 30 gallons per hour to the engine.
If the engine were burning that much fuel, you would be emptying both stock tanks in a little over one hour, which we know is false.

Let's say you get 10 MPG, so at 60 MPH you are burning 6 gallons an hour, 24 returning to the tank.

On the second hour you drive, the fuel in the tank has already been through the filter twice by the time it reaches the IP.

What do I think about a frame mounted filter?

It really should not be needed, and look where you are working if you do have a water problem while out on the highway.

Right now I know for certain I would much rather stand up by the engine bay draining a filter than I would like crawling under the truck in a foot of snow to drain the frame mounted filter.
And right now, if there was water in the frame mounted filter, it won't drain anyway, because it will be ice, not liquid.
With the heat in the engine bay if I was driving, the chances are much higher that it would actually drain out of the engine mounted filter.

Likewise in extreme cold, when the temps go below the cloud point of diesel, the frame mounted filter is much more likely to clog with wax crystals than the engine mounted filter is.

 

LOL vury true Dave you always have trouble when the conditions. in my travels the frame is packed in solid ice several inches thick I would have to have an ice pick and lay on my back for awhile to even find a filter mounted there. I'll pass for my use.
Now if my motor ever see's 4000 rpms I have severly screwed up and am now praying I get to the bottom of the mountain in one piece.lol

 

Probably watching the brake smoke out of both mirrors hoping to not see flames on either side.

Been there, did that, what a ride.

Lesson learned, a flat bed hauling pipe can not drop off the Rockie's and run the same speed as a freight hauler pulling a box trailer.
Weight to wind resistance numbers are to far apart for that to work as planned.

 

I wish I had known that the filter before the pump was not necessary. I wouldn't have waisted my time and money installing one. When I was searching the forum for info one converting to electric the filter was strongly suggested my almost all the posts I read to protect the pump but my pump puts out around 70 gal. per hour so I see what your saying its getting filtered many times over already. I may take it off but then again here in KS we very seldom get more then a few inches of snow at one time. I grew up in Vermont and I do miss the snow.

 

You want some?

We have plenty and could spare a few thousand tons.


As far as the filter, not having one installed prefilter may void the warranty on the fuel pump.

And with my truck, Murphy comes around with those stupid laws of his way to often.
I have no doubt if I had a filter installed down on my frame, it would clog or freeze when I was in the nastiest place I had been all year that year.
So that would mean either the mud, snow or water would be almost up to the frame and probably cold on top of that so I could stand there and kick myself for thinking a filter down there was a good idea.

 

yes a factory lift pump might pump 30 gph but it dont have enough pressure, i need more fuel pressure

 

Even at high rpm's if it has the volume why would the Ip need more pressure.

 

Lets face it I am a noobie , so dont take this wrong . Why do you want your IDI to pass 4000 rpm's isn't redline 3500 or so??? Your profile leads me to believe you have stock internals in ya motor , am I missing something?? Or are you pushing the extreme?
nate

 

ok.well that settles that.since Dave agrees their should be no filter pre-pump,i'll agree with ya guys.consider that thing gone.im not gunna argue with you experienced peeps.

well according to this site the specs on the 7.3 state:
Peak Horsepower: 185 HP @ 3,000 RPM (190 w/ turbo)
Peak Torque: 360 lb-ft. @ 1,400 RPM (388 w/ turbo)

6.9l:
Peak Horsepower: 170 HP @ 3,300 RPM
Peak Torque: 338 lb-ft. @ 1,400 RPM
so 4k rpm would just be revving and be outside the max power band if the engine is stock of course. id like to see a power band chart.if you could find one,it would show what you have at 4k.but its probably considerably lower power id guess.

6.9 L & 7.3 L Ford Diesel Specs & Information