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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Headers and shifter linkage problems/questions.

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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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Headers and shifter linkage problems/questions.

Ok, I am so close to having this truck up and going again. I got my rebuilt engine in tonight, but the headers were a pain in the *** to get clear of the transmission linkages and ended up ending right at the linkages. I want to keep these headers and am considering going to the Pull A Part to look for a floor shifter that I could install and use. Does anyone have any suggestions? Anyone else install Long Tube Headers and run in to this problem? I would not mind a floor shifter from another vehicle and I have heard of cable linkages but never seen them.
Any tips or advice would be most appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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You must have the wrong application headers. I bought cheapy flowtechs, and the fit was good except they had to be tweaked down a little to clear the tranny pan. Clearance up in the engine compartment and the firewall was excellant.

P.S. You can buy a aftermarket cable shifter at places like Jegs and Summit.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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I bought my headers and intake from a guy off of craigslist, so it is possible they there were not for this year truck or what not. I would love to do a floor shifter, however, I have spent a lot more cash than I had anticipated and do not have the cash for an aftermarket one. I do however have a Pull A Part down the street and if someone could suggest a vehicle to grab one out of that has a cable linkage that I could make work, that would be great.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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I recommend you put the original manifolds on till you get enough money for a shifter or the correct headers. The cars I am familiar with have solid linkages on the shifter, and a car shifter is going to be too short for a truck anyway.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Yeah, I will look into the cable linkage kits. I'm going to go take a look around at Pull A Part tomorrow and maybe I will get lucky. I need to get this truck moving at least temporarily and do not want to put the manifolds back on. Although it looks like I may have to.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 12:20 AM
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Years ago I used the automatic floor shift from a ford aerostar. It is cable operated and a tall handle to clear the seat without reaching down. I had to modify the end so that it would work on my c-6 but it was no big deal. The finished housing fit the floor really well also.

The early small ranger and broncoll may have the same shifter.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by first today
Years ago I used the automatic floor shift from a ford aerostar. It is cable operated and a tall handle to clear the seat without reaching down. I had to modify the end so that it would work on my c-6 but it was no big deal. The finished housing fit the floor really well also.

The early small ranger and broncoll may have the same shifter.
Awesome. I was hoping to hear from someone who has done this before. I may down the road do a more professional type deal, but at the moment, this is all I can swing.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:37 PM
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Something funny: I ended up doing the aerostar floor shifter and I love it. After doing it, I went to the Pull A Part looking for something and came across a truck that had the exact thing done! I was surprised!

After some thinking, I do no think that the guy I bought them from lied to me, I do think they are for this truck because they clear the crossmember, but I think they were for a manual truck that would no have these issues.

I talked to a friend's dad who did a lot of rods etc back in his day and he recommended heating the tube with a torch till each one is red hot, having some one keeping them hot, and another person under the vehicle with a pipe or pole in the rear of them to slowly bend them out. It seems to me as this would work. I think as long as we kept them nice and hot and moved it very slowly this would work. Any one have any input?

I know that I could buy the correct ones or what not, but my budget is way in the negative already and I simply cannot afford it. I want to try to keep these headers.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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I have a buddy with his 302 pulled out and on the engine stand, so I am going to mount my headers to his block on the stand, take some measurements, borrow a torch and get to bending. Worse case scenario, I will have to buy a new set of headers down the road when I am not broke if I mess these up.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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You must have got a whale of a deal on these headers. I got the right ones for mine from JCWhitney, and they only cost me around $120 at the time with free shipping. They where the cheaper flowtechs that everyone else sells.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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I bought a few things from a guy on Craigslist. 4 barrel carburetor, 4 barrel edlbrock intake and these headers for $100 bucks. So basically $33 bucks. I have a lot more time than cash at the moment. I am trying to wrap this truck up. I went in planning on spending about $500, and I have surpassed $1600 so far. The wife is pregnant and due in July, so we have a lot of other more imprtant things to be buying, and I am just trying to get this truck moving with out spending any more money, and this is the last thing holding me back. lol.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by madrox
Something funny: I ended up doing the aerostar floor shifter and I love it. After doing it, I went to the Pull A Part looking for something and came across a truck that had the exact thing done! I was surprised!
I am glad you were able to find one. After I posted here I could not even find a picture of one on the net. Did you have to modify the end at the transmission? When I did mine, I just cut a length of the shift rod and clamped it to the cable. It worked for a long time. The handle should come up nicely above the seat without having to reach down below the seat like the car shifters.
 
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